BMC - The Black Donald. And so it begins.

So here is a start at a review, seeing the weather will not allow me to go outside as of yet. Seeing there is a lot to this axe, I will break it down into sections, and review each one :

1. Packing and arrival : At first glance when the package arrived, it is above the norm for axes. As you can see on the website, it comes in a wooden box, with wooden wool all around the axe, and then is also protected with paper around the handle where painted, and then also tied with string. The attention to detail is definetley there. The handle is secured in the box by two wooden ribs, as seen in the pic, which help to hold the axe in place. The cover of the wooden box also has a paper label with the name of the person who purchased it, the date, then specific axe, and the BMC axe disclaimer.

Section 1 review - Impressive. I have bought one or two axes in my time. This is over the top. We will discuss more about this later, as seeing it is already known this isn't for everyone, and rightfully so.

2. Unpacking - The axe itself is truly an american felling axe. Somehow I was thinking it would be smaller, though fully aware of dimensions when purchased. This axe is a brute, size wise. The head comes with sheath on it and ready, full dayton pattern. The handle is painted as requested by the buyer, and I requested the Black Donald pattern. Handle, where painted, is wrapped in paper and string, to save it from the ribs in the box as I can see. Also with unpacking is the paperwork and patches that come with the axe. Paperwork is primarily about the care and upkeep of the axe. One is the registration card, one is the CARE/CCGF card, and the other is the guarantee/documentation card. This seems interesting, seeing that if you wish, to remove the paper label on the axe head, and apply it to the card, for record keeping. Each axe is also given its own axe number, also for documentation/record keeping.

Section 2 review - Again pretty impressive overall. Lots of insight, specifics, info, etc. More than I am used to as a collector of older american axes, so this is new to me. The guarntee is for the life of the tool. I do not believe any other axe maker gives a guarantee that long, though I may very well be mistaken. One must fill out the card and send it back in, which is very painless.
It is stated that that "our policy does not cover axes that have been abused, misued, altered, or simply word out from use". I dont find this hard to agree with.

3. Unpacking/Handling and review - This is were it starts to get interesting. So the first thing I do of course is get to the painted handle, which is all the rage so far from what I have seen on there forums. So, first off, it is very well done, from a painting aspect. Crisp, clear lines, no smudges, etc. Next, to my own surprise, the painted handle is not slippery at all. Actually, if you grab the handle high, up near the axe head, and run your hands down, your hands will gladly run down the haft, until they hit the painted area, then grab tight. This was much to my surprise. I thought the paint would be an issue of handling, but does not seem to be so (disclaimer - not field tested yet). Next, was the handle itself, has great grain structure and proper thickness. Not too thick, not too thin for head size. The handle is smooth and the imprints fresh and very well done. The linseed that is said to be coated to me leaves some to be desired. Of course I am constantly putting linseed on my handles, and I am sure this handle has only had one to 2 coatings. The sheath is solid, constructed well, and fits great. It does need oiled, which I am sure they are leaving up to the buyer.


For the next 3, I will examine the axe head itself. What I look for in an axe head, Look, Physical, Test. Will examine this next. This will be done on monday. Lets get some discussion going on this, as I am sure that there will be.
 
well, i for one like their presentation, the wooden box is a nice touch. an heirloom quality tool deserves a little 'bells and whistles' if you ask me.
i like the paint. i have to admit at first i was sceptical but it has grown on me. i too, am interested in how or if the paint will effect chopping (positive or negative?).
the sheath looks nice and of good quality. i'm sure a little oiling is in order, but when is it not on sheaths?
as far as the handle needing a little linseed oil; i'm like you, i continue to apply it until the wood will no longer soak it up. i have always oiled my GB handles as well their sheats.
so i think this is to be expected with any handle or sheath.
all in all, looking good;) now, lets see that baby eat some wood...
 
If you intend to use the axe, remove the paint (the only thing added to the S&N axe) since paint will cause blisters. Or wear gloves. ^___^
 
"Best" claims the axe heads are heat-treated in Maine.

Council thinks it is located in North Carolina.

One or the other could be wrong.
their is a fellow on here who works for/with BMC and he said that the heads are made by council tool.
S&N are no longer made in the USA...
 
Heh, I could understand the angst towards the artsy hipsterish douchebaggery when they were using the Snow & Nealley heads (that were probably Chinese cast). But now that Best Made are using Council Velvicut heads there really isn't much to quibble on, if you don't want to pay extra for a painted handle get an unfinished model.

I'm just curious how well the Velvicut heads are finished, and how they compare to a Gransfors.
 
"Best" claims the axe heads are heat-treated in Maine.

Council thinks it is located in North Carolina.

One or the other could be wrong.

Originally Best Made used S&N heads that were cast in China and heat treated in Maine. Apparently there was a falling out between the two founders, one took the S&N heads and founded another artsy hipster axe company, the other partnered with Council Tool and now sells Velvicut heads with the Best Made mark & handles.

Council have always had workable axes, the only question I'm looking for Operator to answer is if the better steel & extra work that has gone into producing the Velvicut is worth the markup over Council Tool's plain jane axes.
 
So they take a Council Velvicut and add $100 or more depending on the paint color scheme and the word craved into the handle ("Courage" "Compassion" etc) ? That what makes it "best"?

You can get some pretty nice axes on EBay that were made when people were serious about their axes. I don't think you have to pay $250 for them, and they come without paint that you would need to remove for use.

(The "best" axe would have a straight handle. Not as graceful but works better.)
 
I'm all for vintage axes, but for people who have more money than brains and brawn production axes have their place. Also, paint need not always be removed, it is heavily dependent on the type. I have axes with painted handles, and I use them extensively. Doesn't bother my hands. That said, I have seen some pretty some painted handles that would be rough on the hands, cant say about bestmade because I haven't handled it. I trust OP about it being nice though.
 
I don't see it, that's for sure.

Council's velvicut line is forged from 5160 and seems to have a better profile and better finishing than the standard line. BMC sells the "unfinished" american felling axe (which is a rebranded Council velvicut american felling axe with BMC's hickory) for about 12 bucks less than council's equivalent. Now if you want the painted handle that's another 92 bucks. That's not worth it in my opinion, but to some it might be. That being said, I can't see anything to complain about. If they can sell them with painted handles for $250, more power to them. The whole designer thing and "tribe" of axe people certainly does not appeal to an old fashioned Idaho boy like me, but I don't really care either. Otherwise, as far as I can tell, they sell a quality axe and that's no BS.

Props to Operator for putting his money where his mouth is and sharing the results with us.
 
This seems interesting, seeing that if you wish, to remove the paper label on the axe head, and apply it to the card, for record keeping. Each axe is also given its own axe number, also for documentation/record keeping.

So, does that mean your's is the first black donald sold????
 
Council's velvicut line is forged from 5160 and seems to have a better profile and better finishing than the standard line. BMC sells the "unfinished" american felling axe (which is a rebranded Council velvicut american felling axe with BMC's hickory) for about 12 bucks less than council's equivalent. Now if you want the painted handle that's another 92 bucks. That's not worth it in my opinion, but to some it might be. That being said, I can't see anything to complain about. If they can sell them with painted handles for $250, more power to them. The whole designer thing and "tribe" of axe people certainly does not appeal to an old fashioned Idaho boy like me, but I don't really care either. Otherwise, as far as I can tell, they sell a quality axe and that's no BS.

Props to Operator for putting his money where his mouth is and sharing the results with us.

My thoughts as well. :)
 
I'm curious to see how this works out when you go to chopping. I haven't seen an in-use review of these yet (not that I have sought one out). If it works well, more power to them!
 
Ok, here we go. I wanted to fell a tree, but we are having a windy day, and wind gusts up around 45 miles an hour, so I just didnt want to deal with that.

So I found a dead quaker in the woods - and proceeded to have at it.

First though, some pics of the head, head analysis, and the comparison to the Flint Edge(head $3 flea market find, handle $14 Home Depot, sharpened by me and linseed coating on handle) it will be going up against :

The axe head on the Black Donald, as I stated is a beast. Big, squarish, and heavy. It has the Flint Edge by a 1/2 pound, but it feels more like 3/4 pound advantage. Some pics :

SAM_0226.jpg


SAM_0227.jpg


As hopefully you can see (sorry for crappy pics) the head is larger on the BMC. However, the bits tell the story. So the Flint Edge is the one I usually use. I find it a good length and weight for all around versatility. Is it perfect? Nope. Functional? Yes, very much so. And I can swing it for long periods of time without rest, which is important to some, not important to others. The bit on the Flint Edge is sharpened by hand by me, and is to me, almost perfect as far as thickness from bit back to cheek. Nice smooth angle on it allows for easy chopping, without having to swing like a mad man. The BMC is slightly different in perspective. The bit on it is more wedge shaped, or house roof shaped as my old man would call it (get that roof off that bit) . The axe is disclosed as being very sharp on the paperwork that came with it. (It is sharp, just not Operator sharp;)), and I know for a fact I dont keep my Flint Edge as sharp as some of you guys. So that being said, I had some suspicions going in.

Below are a couple pics, first one after 60 easy swings for each -

SAM_0228.jpg


Second pic is after 100 swings, with a little more effort -

SAM_0229.jpg


Again I couldn't get to carried away, stupid weather wont allow it. But I think you can see by the pics, the Flint Edge did better at chopping into this quaker.

Side notes - I thought the BMC did ok - it just needed properly sharpened to hang with the Flint Edge. The balance on it was great, no problems there. And the handle, I liked the painted handle - grip wise it was better than the Flint Edge. The paint has a tacky epoxy coating on it which allows for good grip. How long that will last is of course something I will have to follow up on. The 4 lb head did get heavy pretty quickly, which is attributed to me being used to my own axe and weight I am sure. OnceI had about 15 minutes in and warmed up, it was fine.

Overall -

So the Black Donald is what it is. I am not going to get into the price or paint or wooden case or what not. Thats for you guys to decide. All I know is this -

It handled well. The paint on the handle was not an issue, for now. It was balanced great, and swang like a mother. It just needed to be sharp in order for the wow factor to be there. The head pattern being more wedge like will mean it needs to be ultra sharp, seeing you dont have the thin bits/cheeks like on some other axes, which makes for easier penetration. I therefore only put in 200 swings and called it. This I think seems common in the reviews I have seen Steve and Ross do. I will therefore put an edge on it myself to my liking, and re-try it out. I know it will perform better then. Sheath was good, didn't blow me away, but of course I get to see and own some of the stuff PipeMan and Church do, which automatically makes me spoiled when it comes to leather.

I do have plans on once I get it sharpened to my liking having it one day replace the Flint Edge pictured.

Lastly, for you guys getting ready to head up the bash BMC party, I think one needs to remember who their clients are, and how it may suit you and not suit you. To me they are selling more than an axe(Gransfors?). They are selling history, education, lore, mystique, etc. So you have to be into that for you to fully get your own worth out of it. If you are not, then I would politely step aside, which is fine.

1st real attempt at a review. Its not Steve or Ross caliber. Maybe one day. Hopefully a couple guys learn something.

I would like to thank Nick at BMC, he has been great to deal with, and very accomodating.

Thanks.
 
Thanks for the review. By the way, if I'm the Steve you're referring to, I'd like to say that your in-use reviews are way better than mine, seeing as I can't recall ever posting one, and actions trump intentions.
 
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