Bolster pins

S

Sandeggo

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Nov 17, 2014
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I am really tired of getting my ass kicked by bolster pins. No matter how much I peen there's still a halo around them. Is it because I am using epoxy? Is there any way to fix it, short of drilling the pins out and preening new ones in? These ones are 3/32" copper and I peened both sides until they were about 5/32", then after the epoxy was setup, I ground them off and they were invisible. After contouring the bolsters and working up through the grits they appear.
First pass after glue up
29D35E49-E6E8-42CD-BEC6-153F1C39504D_zpsba3sfs6m.jpg

Then they start to rear their ugly face. I tried to peen more to "spread" the pins but all it did was make me have to file out divots.
C0F41A3A-C4AA-430D-94C5-22C6D33858A2_zpsdwmblfzt.jpg

I'd actually like this knife if it weren't for the damn pins. Feels like one huge waste of time.
5D49C9D3-5992-4288-A692-FA672FEDC878_zpsgckmaqgz.jpg
 
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I've heard it could be the epoxy. Also cleaning and polishing the pins and cleaning the booster holes as well.

My plan is to do the epoxy just on the edges to seal from contaminants but hopefully not into the pinholes.
 
I drilled them out and pulled the bolsters off. I plan to clean them up, epoxy them on, then after they set, put new pins in and peen them on, we will see how this ends up
 
What a lot of makers do is , no epoxy , smash the hell out of the pins ( I also always put a small countersink hole in the bolster for the pin head to swell into ) then wick in some thin ca glue for the moisture barrier .
 
ONeill said:
What a lot of makers do is , no epoxy , smash the hell out of the pins ( I also always put a small countersink hole in the bolster for the pin head to swell into ) then wick in some thin ca glue for the moisture barrier .
Click to expand...

How much countersink?
 
Sandeggo said:
How much countersink?
Click to expand...

enough for the head of the pin to expand , the peened pin is holding the bolsters tight to the blade , no need for epoxy . The ca glue is just a moisture barrier . This is how I was taught any how .

PS. your knife is beautiful
 
You need to countersink the holes in the bolster, maybe 1/16 so the pin can swell into them when you peen. If you just peen the head of the pin without the countersink you see the results.

Some makers use tapered reamers so you have a longer countersink.
 
A vise is not the way to do it. You will simply bend the pin.
Peen them with a small hammer. Don't beat them, or use an arbor press- just properly peen them.
This just feels wrong- admonishing George Schrade's grandson! But if George was here, he'd tell you the same thing.
 
I thought I'd read about using a taper reamer instead of a countersink. Does the countersink work better? I'm having the same problem and I've been considering using the taper reamer after the epoxy (J B Weld actually) dries then installing the pins and peening but I worry about breaking the epoxy bond during the peening.

Thoughts? Use the countersink and thin CA instead?
 
I got the bolsters in place with quick epoxy, no pins. Once it kicked I cleaned out the pin holes with the drill bit and acetone. Then I took a countersink and countersunk maybe 1/16" by hand. Then I cut some new pins, sanded and wiped them down with acetone. I peened them in place. I'm happier with the outcome and now have a new procedure for attaching bolsters. The bottom pin still has a little bit of visible mark but I'm definitely not taking this one apart again.
Here you can see I'm starting to mushroom one
8FB7C80B-D027-4900-9EA5-6A4BCDD90AE7_zpsc3zynzhb.jpg

With a quick file, sand, and oil we got to here.
949A06DC-94A4-4748-8E94-87FC1B902A91_zps6kllme2g.jpg
 
Sandeggo, Here is what I have been using for a couple years now. I think I bought it from Jantz or Texas knife supply. Chuck it into your drill press and spin it pretty fast. Clamp your blade and bolsters down and just sink it in to chamfer about a 1/16" . Peen your pins in with a ball peen hammer and then shape your bolsters lightly while finishing. If you have to make a major change in the shape of the bolsters then shape them to almost finished before putting your scales on and chamfering. This tool wants to grab when it's new so be sure to clamp and run at high speed. This might make your job easier. Larry

DSCN0911.jpg
 
A quick tip I have is finger oil on the pins, or grime will cause them to halo. Take some fine sand paper and lightly spin them and set into the hole. Touch as little as possible. Drill and pin as quickly as possible as the removal of metal if left to sit will oxidise, yeah just a little but maybe too much. Hope this helps.
 
I just chamfer my holes with a pocket knife. Don't overthink it-most anything will do.
 
ggoose said:
StuNY do you turn this by hand or put in in a drill press? Thx
Click to expand...
I just turn it by hand, it is a pretty slight angle and quite sharp so doesn't take much. I noticed I can peen the pin more easily than when I was using a counter bore- less hole to fill I guess. You have to make sure you get the right size for the pins you will be using. The one I linked I use for 1/8" pins.
 
i originally had the same issues until i changed my process , this is how i successfully do it now , jb weld the bolsters into place and clamp with vice grips using "sacrificial" pins , once clamped remove the pins and clean out any epoxy in the pin holes with a length of venetian blind cord soaked with acetone and pulled through the holes , after 24hrs giving the jb welb time to cure i then ream the holes with a reamer , i insert a length of pin stock into the drill press chuck and sand it clean using 240gt , cut the pins to length to allow for peening and grind a small bevel around the end of the pins , insert the clean pins and peen then grind flat.

The reason i initially use the jb weld is for moisture protection

here's a pic of a recently finished knife with 416 bosters/pins

hope this helps mate :)

CIMG4065_zpsa708c96c.jpg


CIMG4072_zps4f40ba4f.jpg
 
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