Boss Jack....

The A-grip material made for pistol grips might be perfect for you. I have it on most of my pistols and I love it. It grips good wet or dry, and slides freely on fabric so it won't pull your shirt up when you move around. I think Brooks Tactical is the company that makes it. You can get uncut pieces and use it for anything you want.

I've had this one on for over 10 years with several thousand rounds fired and it's still in great shape.

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got access to a sandblaster? mask off the actual blade and give the scales 10 seconds on a side with some 120 grit A/O or glass beads?
 
i used the BJ a little bit today. I must say that with a little use, the handle on this is actually quite nice. I think the only thing I'll really need to do is get a different carry setup. The Mashed Cat sheath with the TechLok rides too high for me. I might to mod the sheath so I can attach the TechLok higher up. If that doesn't do it, then I'll go with leather.
 
Try this simple trick to help out on the feel of Micarta scales . Use hot water , dish soap , and a stiff scrub brush . Scrub the heck out of those scales . Doing so will remove any oil or wax that may be present and will also rough up the exposed ends of the canvas fibers in the Micarta . Many times that is all it takes to improve traction .
 
So..... the general concensus amond most of you Boss Jack owners is that with the .22" thickness blade, the edge needs thinned a bit. After using my knife all night for various cutting chores, I would have to agree. The broad shoulder above the convexed edge does inhibit the actual slicing ablilty of this knife a little after the initial few cuts are made. Would I be able to do this myself with just my Sharpmaker rods? If not, I wonder if sending it out to someone like richard j would be in my best interests? Would knocking the shoulder off by taking the edge down to a 30 degree proflie be too thin?
 
flatfoot said:
Try this simple trick to help out on the feel of Micarta scales . Use hot water , dish soap , and a stiff scrub brush . Scrub the heck out of those scales . Doing so will remove any oil or wax that may be present and will also rough up the exposed ends of the canvas fibers in the Micarta . Many times that is all it takes to improve traction .
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I was going to suggest using a solution of hot water and dish soap to remove any dirt and oil from the canvas micarta. I did this to an old, well-used SHBM with smooth canvas micarta (I might have used an old toothbrush to scrub the handles, but I don't remember for sure), and it noticeably improved the feel of the micarta (it looked better too).
 
Aaa_ccc do you like the boss jack with or without the fuller I would the fuller better but I also haven't had either one. Whats your opinion please.
 
fpsbest said:
Aaa_ccc do you like the boss jack with or without the fuller I would the fuller better but I also haven't had either one. Whats your opinion please.
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I like both for what they are, but there is quite a difference IMO. The version that sports the fuller has the convex grind only reaching half the height of the blade, which results in a significantly thicker edge and a slightly more forward balance. I did quite a bit of thinning on the edge to blend it into the primary grind and it really benefited from this as a result. This type of grind will be better for chopping/slicing through very hard materials and is actually best suited for swords that usually would have to slice through bone.

The Boss Jack without the fuller is actually a Combat Grade that's been double cut. The grind on these is a full height convex, meaning the grind is continuous from edge to spine. This results in a much thinner edge and tip than the fullered versions and improves performance on softer materials. I see it as more of a general use grind and would probably be better suited as an all rounder than the fullered Boss Jack.
 
It sounds like mine would benefit from being taken down to thirty degrees then. Mine is the proto with the .22" blade with the fuller and small choil. It has the double cut finish if that matters. While thinning yours down, about what angle were you set at?
 
I do not think in terms of measures of angles when reprofiling knives, my goal is to blend the primary grind into the secondary grind (edge) into a shallow convex zero edge. I simply use sandpaper (220 grit) on a phone book and focus on removing metal from *only* the shoulder (where the 1st and 2nd grind meets). I keep removing metal until I start removing metal from the apex and have a nicely blended zero convex edge.
 
I'll f#%k that up quick. I just emailed the folks at Busse. Maybe they'll do it for me, and keep me from voiding the warranty.
 
I recently bought my first Busse, a second hand Boss Jack. I haven't had chance to use it yet, but I love it. Boss Jack owners please tell us how you use yours.
 
md02geist said:
Looks like some boss jacks are available in Santa Ganza...
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Sorry new to all of this, but am looking for a Boss Jack LE w/out choil... I came across this post and not sure what Santa Ganza is. I found a Ganzaa Gallery online but not sure if this the right place you were talking about. I was trying to find the Boss Jack's you were referring to. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
Scratch my last post. I found all the information about it in the sticky notes...
 
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