Bow Drill

DOC-CANADA said:
Hey John, Weeping Willow (Salix babylonica) works as well. Doc
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Thanks for that Doc - we have a tonne of that stuff around here along the creeks and waterways. I'm going to try this for sure.

Talfuchre said:
There are two theories out there. Doc's theory where you find the easiest and best materials in a controlled environment and then use them to get success - because many quit before they get success.

Second theory is to try with poor materials until you get fire - because once you get it with crap - you can get it with anything.
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There is a lot to just getting the technique down. Is the drill the right length and thickness? Is my cord tight enough. Am I drilling fast enough? Did I cut the wedge in hearth correctly?

I think the first way is your best bet. Once you know what works technique wise under ideal conditions you can approach a new situation with a degree of confidence. Then the fun begins to explore using the method on different woods.

Going to a difficult, or unknown situation without successfully starting a fire using proven wood types is a recipe for frustration. I'm not sure about you guys, but when they taught me to swim it wasn't by driving me to the middle of lake in a boat, throwing me overboard and yelling out 'Make it to shore'. Once I learned how to swim, I could accomplish the latter with a much greater liklihood. Same thing with any training environment. Start easy and build to difficulty. T - you understand how human psychology and random reinforcement promotes learning. Too many variables interferes with a logical deductive approach.

If you don't have the benefit like I did of somebody showing you how to do it, I'd go out and buy a piece of basswood and go from there. It is going to be dry at the start and seems ideal for the technique. Carvers use this wood extensively so it can be found in most hobby shops.
 
Talfuchre said:
Doc,

All of my bows are that long. My arm length. How long is yours? (Your bow that is...;) )

TF
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About 16", mind you I've adapted that length for me, because of my back limitations. BTW, this is the length bow that kgd did his first coal (he has done more since :thumbup: ) with, and he had no problem at all.

It seems that when some people use an oversize (length) bow, they introduce some inefficiency at the extreme length of the bow stroke (because they're overextending themselves) and this, to some degree, negates the advantage of a longer bow (more duty cycle, less rest cycle - this is the more time the bow is moving compared to the non-productive time for stopping and reversing direction). (No, I'm not an English major :o )

kgd said:
Thanks for that Doc - we have a tonne of that stuff around here along the creeks and waterways. I'm going to try this for sure.
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k, don't interpret that as Weeping Willow (Salix babylonica) works well. It's not as easy as Basswood (Tilia americana) or Poplar (Populus spp.) but it does work.

Doc
 
DOC-CANADA said:
k, don't interpret that as Weeping Willow (Salix babylonica) works well. It's not as easy as Basswood (Tilia americana) or Poplar (Populus spp.) but it does work.
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Good to know - a bit of a challenge but it works. That sounds like a good assignment :D
 
Talfuchre said:
You don't need to know what wood you have. Simply do the thumbnail test. Too soft - it crushes - too hard - no indentation. It should make a firm indentation.

The bow should be about armpit to finger tip long.

Keep us up to speed.

TF
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Great tip. I'm very bad at identifying wood so this helps.

All thsi talk about bow drills makes me want to go out and play.
 
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