Bravo 1.25 or Reiff F5?

I'm looking for a field / bushcraft knife with a 5" blade, 3V steel, no fancy shape or tactical features. I narrowed it down to the Bravo 1.25 LT 3V (the rampless version), the normal version with 5.51 mm / 0.217" thick blade and the Reiff F5 ..... and now I just can't make up my mind.

The knife will be used as an all-rounder for Australian hard wood (I'm from down under) .... which is pretty tough. I really like the look of the Bravo(s), but I prefer the handle bolts of the Reiff (allows for easy removal of the scales, e.g. for sharpening, or if I have to replace them....). The thickness (I mentioned the tough Australian hardwood) of the Reiff (4.57 mm / 0.18" - similar to the Architect FB 6.5 I already own) sits between the 5.51 mm / 0.217" and 3.96 mm / 0.156" of the Bravos ..... I already have a nice leather sheath that would fit the Bravos well (I don't think I like the one that comes with the Bravo), the Reiff ordered with the leather sheath cost approx. 10% more than the Bravo(s).

Any thoughts that could help me with the decision making? ....(no, buying all of them isn't an option 😎)
I've had a few BRK&T knives, I've run into quality control issues with some of the knives, I've run into what I feel were quality issues with the guy that owns the company, and I've read in more than one place that I'm not the only one who's run into these issues.

I have had a Reiff F5 for over a year. And once I got over the handle length, I feel the rest of the knife is one of the most well thought out production knives I've ever fielded. I'm working on a long term review of it. I just wish I could get the black micarta scales for mine instead of the G10
 
I've had a few BRK&T knives, I've run into quality control issues with some of the knives, I've run into quality issues with the guy that owns the company, and I've read in more than one place that I'm not the only one who's run into these issues.

I have had a Reiff F5 for over a year. And once I got over the handle length, I feel the rest of the knife is one of the most well thought out production knives I've ever fielded. I'm working on a long term review of it. I just wish I could get the black micarta scales for mine instead of the G10


I agree about the G10 scales. I despise them. When I had my 6 with G10, I said that the only thing that would make this perfect would be canvas micarta scales. I've had several F4 w/G10 (one or two with canvas), a few F5's with both G10 and canvas.

The canvas is the the best option. With that said, I wish that i could get a hold of a F5 w/orange G10 again as a last ditch sharp.
 
I agree about the G10 scales. I despise them. When I had my 6 with G10, I said that the only thing that would make this perfect would be canvas micarta scales. I've had several F4 w/G10 (one or two with canvas), a few F5's with both G10 and canvas.

The canvas is the the best option. With that said, I wish that i could get a hold of a F5 w/orange G10 again as a last ditch sharp.
Micarta has - IMO - more character, it's more like timber. However, for this knife and the intended use I actually would prefer G10. Reason is that G10 is tougher than Mircarta, stains less thus it is more hygienic and easier to keep clean.
E.g. this new knife will very likely see - amongst other challenges - also some roadkill: the wallabies - that are the smaller kangaroos here down under - are, like their monstrous bigger cousins, sometimes very suicidal and jump head forward into cars. If such roadkill is fresh and not smashed, it makes actually an excellent dog food. (As a native animal hunting them is not allowed! .... sometimes kangaroos are culled if the numbers are too high, but there is a lot of paperwork involved.)
Kydex and G10 scales will make it much easier to facilitate some hygienic standards.

Eta: ....I might have to use it sometimes also to defend myself against dropbears (one of Australia's unknown dark secrets ....)
 
I agree about the G10 scales. I despise them. When I had my 6 with G10, I said that the only thing that would make this perfect would be canvas micarta scales. I've had several F4 w/G10 (one or two with canvas), a few F5's with both G10 and canvas.

The canvas is the the best option. With that said, I wish that i could get a hold of a F5 w/orange G10 again as a last ditch sharp.
PM inbound in regard to the orange F5

Micarta has - IMO - more character, it's more like timber. However, for this knife and the intended use I actually would prefer G10. Reason is that G10 is tougher than Mircarta, stains less thus it is more hygienic and easier to keep clean.
E.g. this new knife will very likely see - amongst other challenges - also some roadkill: the wallabies - that are the smaller kangaroos here down under - are, like their monstrous bigger cousins, sometimes very suicidal and jump head forward into cars. If such roadkill is fresh and not smashed, it makes actually an excellent dog food. (As a native animal hunting them is not allowed! .... sometimes kangaroos are culled if the numbers are too high, but there is a lot of paperwork involved.)
Kydex and G10 scales will make it much easier to facilitate some hygienic standards.

Eta: ....I might have to use it sometimes also to defend myself against dropbears (one of Australia's unknown dark secrets ....)
I like the sheath it comes with, though I often carry mine in a left handed leather dangler sheath I use for a few knives of similar size.

I think we may define toughness in relation to our uses differently. I prefer linen or canvas micarta over G10 any day due to the better abrasion resistance. Which was demonstrated to me by bow drill divots in both materials on some different TOPS Knives.

On the Hawke's Hellion 2020, with the linen micarta handle scale, the divot worked great. The spindle spun well and I got a coal pretty easily. With the G10 being fiberglass mesh and epoxy rather than canvas or linen, the spindle melted the G10 and it was hard to spin. G10 dents and scratches easier when dropped on rocks as well.
 
PM inbound in regard to the orange F5


I like the sheath it comes with, though I often carry mine in a left handed leather dangler sheath I use for a few knives of similar size.

I think we may define toughness in relation to our uses differently. I prefer linen or canvas micarta over G10 any day due to the better abrasion resistance. Which was demonstrated to me by bow drill divots in both materials on some different TOPS Knives.

On the Hawke's Hellion 2020, with the linen micarta handle scale, the divot worked great. The spindle spun well and I got a coal pretty easily. With the G10 being fiberglass mesh and epoxy rather than canvas or linen, the spindle melted the G10 and it was hard to spin. G10 dents and scratches easier when dropped on rocks as well.
hm, if it melted it may not have been G10 - to my knowledge G10 is made of glass fibre sheets and epoxy resin while Micarta replaces the glass fibres with canvas or linen ... more information here: https://colonelblades.com/blog/g10-material-history-and-application-in-knife-making/
 
hm, if it melted it may not have been G10 - to my knowledge G10 is made of glass fibre sheets and epoxy resin while Micarta replaces the glass fibres with canvas or linen ... more information here: https://colonelblades.com/blog/g10-material-history-and-application-in-knife-making/

LOL, no offense brother, but I've tested a lot of knives, professionally and recreationally. I'm pretty familiar with the differences in structure and function between G10 and Micarta. The fiberglass does not resist heat as well as the canvas or linen. TOPS was even pushed to offer the BOB knife with canvas scales because of that issue back in 2013/14.
 
LOL, no offense brother, but I've tested a lot of knives, professionally and recreationally. I'm pretty familiar with the differences in structure and function between G10 and Micarta. The fiberglass does not resist heat as well as the canvas or linen. TOPS was even pushed to offer the BOB knife with canvas scales because of that issue back in 2013/14.oint of
I don't think that glass melts before linen or canvas burns - if something melts it will be the epoxy, and the epoxy in the G10 might be more prone to melting compared to Micarta IF a dull drill - or a wooden spindle for a friction fire - is used. Reason would be that G10 is harder, thus it is harder to drill; thus, it will cause more friction, thus the point of contact will heat up more which may reach a threshold where the epoxy starts melting. If used to make a friction fire, I would expect more mechanical abrasion / damage on the Micarta scale compared to the G10 scale. So it comes down to - IMO - what is worse: mechanical damage due to higher abrasion or the damage due to melting due to a higher friction?

I never had any problems with this when I tried the "bushcraft" style, I usually also use boring lighters to start a fire. However, I can't think of any other explanation for your experience that would make sense from a technical / physical point of view.

Eta: I also never used my knife scales for a friction fire, except when I got the Victorinox Venture that comes with an aluminium divot, so no problem here with melting or abrasion.

Eta: just checked the melting point of epoxy, and indeed it can start already melting at 115 deg C! ....so, I believe my explanation above makes somehow sense. Conclusion for me: to avoid any damage to the scales, whether Micarta or G10, I just won't use them for a friction fire / counter bearing in case I have to rely on this method one day if my lighter fails me.
 
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Lol, you're right. And I'm back to square one anyway because the only s90v available is perfectly designed for trapping blood and fat inside the handle.

benchmade-15002-1-saddle-mountain-skinner-fixed-blade-knife-15002-1__67075.1601496174.jpg



Back to your thread topic, here's two suggestions for you since you like 3V:

Bark River Cub 3V

CUB3V-desert-ironwood-burl-red-liner-3-dlt-569.95__78361.1671114243.jpg


and the CRK BFK 3V 62HRC, actually going on sale today

img_7680-jpeg.2762047


how about this one: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/fs-cpm-s90v-nessmuk.2035288/ ? .... that's a real beauty! ...
 
Both knives are excellent choices, so it comes down to personal preference and specific needs. If handle customization and easy maintenance are priorities, the Reiff F5 is a solid choice with its removable handle scales. Additionally, its moderate blade thickness strikes a balance between durability and maneuverability. However, if you’re drawn to the aesthetics and existing sheath compatibility of the Bravo 1.25, it might be the better fit, especially for tackling tough Australian hardwood.
 
OP you started this thread coming on 6 days ago, what have ya decided? Both is a popular choice, as they say with tater chips, can't have just one 🫣🤐
 
OP you started this thread coming on 6 days ago, what have ya decided? Both is a popular choice, as they say with tater chips, can't have just one 🫣🤐
...drumroll .....🥁🥁🥁 ....



.....I ordered both! ....I want to do my own testing and see what suits me best. The Bravo1.25 LT 3V with black Micarta was on sale for US$ 199 (without shipping) - if it has no blemish, I'm pretty confident that I can sell it here down under again without losing money if I don't like it.

Reiff includes international shipping!!!!! ....I ordered it with the leather sheath as it is unlikely I can get such a sheath for the same money here in down under (the extra costs Reiff asked for are moderate compared to the naked knife), and it is easy for me to make a Kydex sheath on my own to address the hygienic issues I outlined in my previous posts (usually I don't like the typical Kydex sheaths as they are just too wide for my taste and remind me more of a paddle than a sheath, and usually they are too wide for the side pockets of the work trousers I usually wear when outdoors - these side pockets usually fit a Silky and / or a bigger knife in a sheath nicely.) ... without the leather sheath, and the international shipping included, the F5 costs still more than the Bravo.

I don't mind the higher price if I get exactly what I want, and there are enough hints for me that the 3V respectively the HT of the F5 might be a tad better than the HT of the Bravo: Reiff states a slightly higher HRC (59 to 61 while BR states - well, most of the sources I found - 58-60), plus Reiff respectively their subcontractor does Cryo treatment (maybe BR does the same, but I couldn't find any source that would back it up). Does all these matters? ... well, according to Larrin it seems it does: according to his recent published study
/ https://knifesteelnerds.com/2025/04/15/cpm-3v-still-the-best-high-toughness-steel/ it seems that 3V could be even tougher than rated in his older studies!

From all the pictures and information I studied so far, the Bravo 1.25 LT has the looks, but the F5 seems to have the edge from an engineering point of view. Can't wait to have both in my hand to find out more.

Eta: spelling, added information....
 
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the Bravo already arrived yesterday! ... that was quick. I ordered it last Wed from DLT Trading, and it took just 5 days to get it shipped, to down under, through custom and to my front door. All for a very attractive price.

After all the reading about the quality issues other experienced - and somehow confirmed by the Dutch Bushcraft guys, who, as diehard BR fanboys, complaint about quality issues and long lead times to get replacement knifes - I was a little bit nervous. But! ....the knife arrived in impeccable condition. I just couldn't find any flaw! The packaging was quite simple - and I like this as I hate having to pay for a shiny box! It is - out of the box - "kitchen paper roll" sharp. The shiny black canvas Micarta, the simple shaped convex blade - this is IMO a timeless classic.

The handle could have a little bit more volume for my taste; it is not a bad handle, and I have normal sized hands, but most of the knifes I use have "bulkier" handles - it may take some time to get used to it. While I admit that the grinded Corby bolt fasteners look good and shiny, I still prefer bolts respectively scales that I can remove easily - makes it easier to check the tang, remove the scales for more serious sharpening works to avoid any scale damage, replace the scales if needed, or just to engrave your name so you can prove that it is yours.

The convex blade / edge is very acute - I tried feather sticking with Australian hardwood....and the performance was excellent; this might be my best feather sticker from all my knifes.

However, I would be very careful with this edge when hard batoning dried hardwood - you can't have the cake and eat it. (This reminds me of the sometimes very unscientific approach of the Dutch Bushcraft guys: in this video
they changed the edge of the Bronco from a V-edge that gave the knife an average sharpness to a fine convex with a much better sharpness - and then they hammered the edge on the rim of and old rusty metal drum and compared the "not-so-good" performance with knifes that performed much better in this "test". I'm pretty sure that the Bronco would have performed much better with the original v-edge.)

Overall, the Bravo (Bravo 1.25 LT 3V rampless in black canvas Micarta) is pretty much exactly what I was looking for. Exactly the size I wanted with all the high-quality attributes (material, finish, handle ergonomics...). Only the sheath is not my first choice when it comes to sheath design, but I knew this before and it is about the knife, not the sheath. (It is not so bad, actually better useable than I thought.)

Will it be better than the Reiff F5 (I will get it in a few days)? ....based on the data I assume the F5 with the V-edge (20 deg angle per side - I got this confirmed by Reiff), and longer and bulkier handle will perform better with batoning dry hardwood and any other tougher tasks - the potential better HT might also help to give F5 the edge wrt toughness. And it has removable handles - function before looks! The Bravo will likely have the edge for typical "bushcraft" tasks (feather sticking, slicing, carving....).

I wanted one "dream" knife that can do it all, that is not too big and not too heavy, big enough to do the various jobs, but small enough so I can carry it in the side pockets of my trousers, with high quality steel and finish - looks now I will end up having 2 instead of just one..... I love to have this kind of problems in these times :)

Eta: ...spelling...
 
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Update:
in the meanwhile, I got a response from BR to the email I sent; it is a comprehensive response, and as my questions referred to quality issues, lead times when it comes to repairs or replacement it may have been somehow "inconvenient" to answer those questions. However, they didn't try to duck the questions, and they actually gave me a plausible explanation for the struggles they had in the past wrt quality and warranties issues. (the guy who run the warranty department was nearly killed in an accident - I understand that incidents like this can have a huge negative impact on smaller companies that cannot afford having a one-to-one backup for key roles).
I appreciate that they took my questions seriously, that they responded and didn't duck my questions.

Furthermore:
after carrying and using the Bravo for a few days now, I found a small "blemish": the radius where the bolster line reaches the grind line where the convex runs out into the flat part of the blade is slightly different on ech side - it took me days to notice this!

I understand if some people say that, for the money, they want an absolute perfect knife, and that both sides of the blade should mirror each other perfectly. But! .... I knew I bought a knife with a man-made convex grind; the price (incl. international shipping to my front door) I paid was approx. US$ 245 / AU$ 400 (AU$ is with PayPal fees etc...) - IMO a very good price for the overall quality (grind, 3V steel, size ...). DLT Trading managed it to get this knife ready and shipped to my front door here in down under in just 5 days! The knife is a dream to use - it's really exactly what I wanted. And to discover this small imperfection (?) took me days.

The main reason for my decision to order both knifes (the Reiff F5 and the Bravo 1.25 LT) was actually that I had the chance to get this Bravo for the relative low price, and I thought, if it is not what I want I can sell it easily without losing money. And yes, I could ask for approx. AU$ 500 here and it will very likely sell quickly. But I get the feeling that it will be a keeper, and this tiny little imperfection (I could easily fix this by myself, but I won't) just makes it my knife.

The Reiff F5 will arrive early next week - could be (very likely) another keeper.
 
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