Bronze Large Sebenza

US-STEEL said:
Wow, you did a fine job. Ok, just a thought; but if you were to have 5 Olympic rings engraved in that along with London 2012, there's no telling how much that would sell for on EBay. I'm serious, if you do it now while the Olympic fever is still hot, you may net enough to buy several more.:)
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That's a very interesting and entrepreneurial idea!!!!
 
arskrg said:
I thought the Cryo handles were "ti-coated."
Not an expensive knife, but It'd suck to mess it up brand new...
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Yes, there is titanium carbo-nitride coating on the handles and blade that could anodize depending on what the carbo-nitride actually does to the Ti. I won't do the blade... We'll see what happens... I bought the Cryo to be my "travel knife" so I don't get fidgety when I'm on vacation and start looking for knife stores which are inevitably a disappointment... It's not one I'm worried about.
 
SMI said:
That is how I get CRK's studs out myself. No problems there.



I don't *think* it does, but it would be awesome if it did. I have a set of BM studs on a seb that would look awesome blue.
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OK, please describe this procedure of drifting in more detail. If it's easy and no problem then re-bluing the thumbstud would be simple.
 
hondahirny said:
The Cryo's handles are steel. Does voltage-based anodizing work on steel the way it does on Titanium? I don't think it does.
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No, it doesn't work on steel. Aluminum and Titanium mostly. Again, the Cryo has some kind of Ti coating which may oxidize.
 
I don't believe you. I think you spray painted it:) Seriously, that looks great and you can do all kinds of things. You should put up a shingle.
 
Home business. A shingle would be a sign outside your house advertising your business; i.e., "Bob's Accounting". Soon you would have enough $ for the 100v variac!
 
Had to return the Cryo. The blade was touching the scale and could not be adjusted...
 
Maprik said:
No, it doesn't work on steel. Aluminum and Titanium mostly. Again, the Cryo has some kind of Ti coating which may oxidize.
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OK, cool. Sounds like it might be worth a shot. I just remember reading the description and thought the blade was TiCN, but the handles were not. I'm happy to be wrong.

Just saw your post about having to return it. Sucks about the blade centering. Hope you can get another. Its a cool looking blade.

Good luck and keep us updated. I have access up to 600VDC at work, so maybe its time to Anodize something :)
 
Yes, I ordered another Cryo. Perhaps my expectations are unrealistic for a $31 knife? That's the problem with owning Sebenzas and Hinderers. You come to expect that level of fit. I can say that the finish of the Cryo is excellent.
 
Maprik,

I haven't done it myself on a sebenza, but drifting is just a drift pin. Buy one that is almost the exact size of the hole and tap it with a hammer keeping it close as you can to the thumbstud. Too small of a pin can roll the edges back over and create a dimple. We press fit things at work all the time, often with heat and ice some things just pop out, but something so small you may just tap the stud with the pin and hammer and have success. Might help to take a softer piece of wood and drill a thumbstud size hole in it to place it in to help hold it steady then tap gently from the back side. Good luck if you try. Should be pretty straight forward.

Also wonder what it would look like if you tried annodizing a sebbie with inlays? Might be cool!
 
HughesTMH said:
I haven't done it myself on a sebenza, but drifting is just a drift pin. Buy one that is almost the exact size of the hole and tap it with a hammer keeping it close as you can to the thumbstud. Too small of a pin can roll the edges back over and create a dimple. We press fit things at work all the time, often with heat and ice some things just pop out, but something so small you may just tap the stud with the pin and hammer and have success. Might help to take a softer piece of wood and drill a thumbstud size hole in it to place it in to help hold it steady then tap gently from the back side. Good luck if you try. Should be pretty straight forward.
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That is basically all I do to get em out. Take a pin punch (can't remember the exact size) and a hammer to it. Just tape the blade to a block of wood with a small cutout for the stud to drop in. I always cover the part of the stud I'm hammering with a little cotton cloth to protect it. However since you can just re-anodize it, you probably don't need to do that. But just like Hughes said, pin size is important. The first one I punched out, I used a pin too small and developed a nice crater. To put them back in I've just used a rubber mallet. Same process though, just tape it real good to a block of wood so it's nice and stable.
 
If you happen to have the excellent and informative CRK set of 2 DVD's, disc #2 shows the removal and installation of the thumb studs, using an arbor press and the special tooling.
The DVD set also shows the anodizing of the Unique Graphic Sebenzas. CRK no longer has the DVD set in stock but if you can find a distributor that stocks them they are fun to have. :)
 
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