Brush Axes

Agent_H

Agent_H

Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
3,898
Day before yesterday my friend and I took a drive and stopped at an out of the way place that is pretty unique. Any place with a 9-10' Yeti chainsaw carving outside can't be all that bad. Good locals.

He had multiple handled tools stacked 3-4 deep. I dug around and found 4 brush axes that followed me home. The shop owner is a pretty interesting guy...

All are different design examples. Collins and Council, and “HAN” with Chinese or Japanese symbols so far but I'll have to check the other two more closely.

Maybe someone could enlighten me on this Collins. It seems nice but the strap is gone. The only place I've found for such a part is through Council. Not sure it will line up though. I have a collection of Collins Axes but am not sure as to their ages or site of production.

The handle is painted in a way that makes me think it is newer. Think I've seen Dixie Tools painted similarly but not exactly like these. There is a red safety warning on the handle.

Full
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Stamp/fit
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Profile
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I have wanted one for the Himalayan Blackberry here that never seems to go away-not maybe the best tool for it but that is what I tell my wife lol.
Usually just pad up and go at it with a 26" machete.

Here are shots of them all together now that it’s light.

Showing handles
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Closer
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Other sides
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HAN – I call it “Bolt Fest”
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Bush/Ditch axe?
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Kind of ugly ducklings and not that versatile maybe but they seems as though they serve a purpose.
Any good stories, pics, or stories are welcome for sure.
 
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There seems to be not much interest in the brush axes. Collecters seem to pass them up. I pick up a few here and there, sometimes just for the haft. They usually came in three sizes, light, medium and heavy. Collins generally made the best ones as the the strap to the blade conection is the best on them. They are a versatile tool that will take some technique to get used to. They can also be dangerous working around others.

Its good to see some one else take an interest in these tools. At one time they where quite popular, which means that they did indeed work.
You should have no problem replaceing the strap on your Collins to look vintage. I can post a picture and give you the demisions.
 
Here's a Kelly that needed a new handle.

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The one on the bottom is a Council Tool Number 12 brush axe. It's the same brush axe as Agent H has.

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I did refurbish the CT #12, but I don't have a new picture of it.

Tom
 
I have an old heavy unmarked one. It doesn't often see use, but when it does it's the best tool for the job. I do need to pick up a light one at some point and those Collins models are nice examples of the type.

Making a new strap wouldn't be too hard if you have the tools. Other than buying the mild steel bar stock all you'd absolutely need would be a hacksaw, a good vise, a drill with a bit of the right size, and a pair of pliers. Ideally you'd have a torch and maybe a small bench anvil or stake anvil with a horn as well, but those are optional.
 
I also have 3 of them, not because I was looking, but for the same reason that I have a whole pile of pick and mattock heads: people basically giving them away. No real resale value, but one I grabbed just for the handle. Maybe one day I will clean one up just because.
 
I suspect that the brush axe excelled at comtrolling hedge rows. Before there was barb wire many hedge rows where planted. After all one of the names that Osage Orange goes by is Hedge. I found that it works pretty good for clearing small russian olive thickets. The handle is long enough to keep you pretty much out of the thorns and it has enough weight to cut down sapplings and small trees.
Thats just speculation on my part.
 
garry3 said:
There seems to be not much interest in the brush axes. Collecters seem to pass them up. I pick up a few here and there, sometimes just for the haft. They usually came in three sizes, light, medium and heavy. Collins generally made the best ones as the the strap to the blade conection is the best on them. They are a versatile tool that will take some technique to get used to. They can also be dangerous working around others.

Its good to see some one else take an interest in these tools. At one time they where quite popular, which means that they did indeed work.
You should have no problem replaceing the strap on your Collins to look vintage. I can post a picture and give you the demisions.
Click to expand...

Nicely said! I have a mostly unused brush hook identical to these and made/sold by Walters Axe of Canada (That's what's stamped on the handle, and I got it from the original owner) and I'll be darned if I ever see fit to want to swing it around. Scary implement to be sure, but there are folks on here that swear by them. And some of them tell me that the infinitely safer Sandvik-made 'brush hooks (not a hook at all and more of a removable blade hacksaw design), that Municipal, Prov and Fed gov'ts in Canada all switched over to the moment they became available, are nowhere near as useful. Perhaps not for striking at roots, stones or at the ground, or removing shins and toes, but otherwise lovely tools. In 1970 I was issued a new-fangled "Sandvik" by gov't of Ontario (Dept of Lands & Forests) and turned loose (a 17 year old enthusiastic kid) to clear a northern highway "right of way" with one. Never having had any experience with the previous generation of brush hooks I (we, there were a dozen of us) cleared quite a swath with these and the bosses were very happy. And none of us got hurt!
 
Here are a few of mine. A medium and two light.
Left to right, a what I think is a medium Collins, an older "Kelly Axe and Tool Co" and a Yerkes and Plumb light.
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The old Plumb has a octagon handle that was painted white.
 
I've been keeping a look out for one of these cheap. I've been doing some timber-stand improvement on my parent's property and the extra reach would be nice. I've got a 29" machete, but it's tiring to bend over to cut brush near the ground for more than an hour or so at a time.
 
Agent_H said:
Maybe someone could enlighten me on this Collins. It seems nice but the strap is gone. The only place I've found for such a part is through Council. Not sure it will line up though. I have a collection of Collins Axes but am not sure as to their ages or site of production.
Click to expand...

It's easy enough to make a replacement strap. Just get some flat bar stock from the hardware store and heat it with a torch to bend it. I made one for an old Milwaukee Road brush axe a couple years ago. Just drill the hole a little short of where you think it should be so that it draws down tight when you tighten the bolt. And if it's too tight you can widen the hole with a rat tail file.

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Just the railroad stamp.

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The Milwaukee Road is now a rails-to-trails route which runs nearby my home. This tool is once again keeping that line clear of brush as is was meant to do.
 
Thank you Square Peg, nice clear stamp also. Maybe its a Kelly in light or medium. I love finding tools with the extra provenance.
 
garry3 said:
There seems to be not much interest in the brush axes. Collecters seem to pass them up. I pick up a few here and there, sometimes just for the haft. They usually came in three sizes, light, medium and heavy. Collins generally made the best ones as the the strap to the blade conection is the best on them. They are a versatile tool that will take some technique to get used to. They can also be dangerous working around others.

Its good to see some one else take an interest in these tools. At one time they where quite popular, which means that they did indeed work.
You should have no problem replaceing the strap on your Collins to look vintage. I can post a picture and give you the demisions.
Click to expand...

I think my first experience with one was actually in an 8th grade class called "Career Cruise" - 1 quarter of Home Ec., 1 quarter of Personal Finance, 1 quarter of Typing, and 1 quarter of Forestry. We were encouraged to wear boots. Seen them around in friend's garages here and there over the years but never looked at them like I do other handled tools. Black berry is coming out.
I appreciate you giving me the dimensions.
Double Ott said:
The one on the bottom is a Council Tool Number 12 brush axe. It's the same brush axe as Agent H has.

DSC_0618-1.jpg


I did refurbish the CT #12, but I don't have a new picture of it.

Tom
Click to expand...
Thank you for the pictures Tom. Those are nice. Can I ask what you did to the Council 12 as far as finish/removal of and any tips on rehanging that one? – seems like a good portion of its mass is extended past the business end of the handle.

This:
FortyTwoBlades said:
Making a new strap wouldn't be too hard if you have the tools. Other than buying the mild steel bar stock all you'd absolutely need would be a hacksaw, a good vise, a drill with a bit of the right size, and a pair of pliers. Ideally you'd have a torch and maybe a small bench anvil or stake anvil with a horn as well, but those are optional.
Click to expand...
And this:
Square_peg said:
It's easy enough to make a replacement strap. Just get some flat bar stock from the hardware store and heat it with a torch to bend it. I made one for an old Milwaukee Road brush axe a couple years ago. Just drill the hole a little short of where you think it should be so that it draws down tight when you tighten the bolt. And if it's too tight you can widen the hole with a rat tail file.
Click to expand...
Are great posts and very helpful. I have most the tools listed, save maybe the anvil. I’ll give it a shot on fashioning a strap for sure.
Think I’ll break one down while I hang some other tools. Should be fun – Garry you are right that the handles themselves tend to be in good condition – one of the things that that said 3x$12 and 1x$16 was a small price to pay for such things.
FortyTwoBlades – This is a side note but when we order from Baryonyx, are you the one personally that does the Special Grade on them?
 
Agent_H said:
<...>
Are great posts and very helpful. I have most the tools listed, save maybe the anvil. I&#8217;ll give it a shot on fashioning a strap for sure.
Think I&#8217;ll break one down while I hang some other tools. Should be fun &#8211; Garry you are right that the handles themselves tend to be in good condition &#8211; one of the things that that said 3x$12 and 1x$16 was a small price to pay for such things.
FortyTwoBlades &#8211; This is a side note but when we order from Baryonyx, are you the one personally that does the Special Grade on them?
Click to expand...


Yeah, as mentioned the anvil is just something that if you happen to have it already it makes the job easier. It's not necessary, though. The vise and pliers will get the job done as long as you have a torch to heat the metal so it's more pliable.

Also, yes I personally do all of the Special Grade work on my site. :)
 
Agent_H said:
I think my first experience with one was actually in an 8th grade class called "Career Cruise" - 1 quarter of Home Ec., 1 quarter of Personal Finance, 1 quarter of Typing, and 1 quarter of Forestry. We were encouraged to wear boots. Seen them around in friend's garages here and there over the years but never looked at them like I do other handled tools. Black berry is coming out.
I appreciate you giving me the dimensions.

Thank you for the pictures Tom. Those are nice. Can I ask what you did to the Council 12 as far as finish/removal of and any tips on rehanging that one? – seems like a good portion of its mass is extended past the business end of the handle.
Click to expand...

I hit the blade with a twisted course wire cup on an angle grinder to clean it up. Then added a large metal wedge to tighten up the handle. Gave a good coat or two of Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer and sharpened her up.

She is all set to go.

Thanks for your kind words, Tom

Edit: Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer is really great paint for any metal that has a light coat of rust on it or any metal that was rusted and cleaned up. It will really leave a great protective coating on any tool.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/17011104?...30341832&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=81186396032&veh=sem
 
Abent H, them straps seem to vary in deminsions even on the same brands. Any where from a 1/2" to 3/4" wide, but they all seem to measure right around 0.12" or 1/8" thick. Hope this helps.
 
Fun fact: true brush axe handles didn't have a kerf cut in the top of the handle. They were just tapped on snug and the lower band prevented the head from coming off.
 
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