Buck 110 folding knife

The Buck 110 has a very strong lock, and the 420HC is great. Yes, 420HC isn't high-end, but Buck does a great job with it (and their edge geometry is fantastic).

The problems are that it is very heavy, has no clip, and takes two hands to open and close. It is a very tough knife, but not the most practical.
 
You know, I have been into knives to some degree for 25+ years, and bought my first Bucks (Personal and Frontiersman) waaaaay back when. They've never been lacking in any way for me. I always wanted, but never stepped over the fence, a 110. I always managed to see something else, and got it instead. I had sooo many friends who thought that a 110 was THE folder.

Fast forward to two weeks ago. I was in a Wally's buying up some pistol ammunition, and got to looking at the knife display. I finally got off the fence, and walked out with my first 110. It's an Idaho knife, with Chinese nylon 2 position sheath (at first, "aaaarrrgh"). At the same time, I picked up a Gerber Paraframe II (gasp!!!!).

Well, I've been carrying and using those two knives in a one-or-the other rotation for every day since buying them. When I say using them, I use 'em like a farmer, like I really hate 'em. I don't cut nails with knives, but I don't hesitate to cut on tree roots with them either.

Well, guess what...I like them both. Gerber Paraframe II: I do DESPISE teflon paint on knife blades, it doesn't last 10 minutes for me, but really, so what...the Gerber still works fine, and IS holding its edge well enough with my usage. I do sharpen my knives when I get home, when they've seen real use. I also don't particularly care for "combo" edge knives, but that serrated edge is good on rope and baling twine...'bout all it's good for though IMHO. I do find that the Para II is a way more easy knife to open than Paraframe1, the "original" just seems too small to make the geometry of the blade stud location comfortable or even useful. The (II)'s larger size makes the geometry of the stud location MUCH better. All in all, it works good enough for me.

The Buck 110 is everything that I need in a utility folder...solid, comfortable knife to use. Note the keyword "use." I find that it cuts right well, doesn't dull out on the first cuts, and sharpens up in 5 minutes tops. I think that it'll do everything that I want a folder to do...dress game, cut walking stick sized tree parts, handle field work, and defend me if pressed (biker flip open). I even have come to like that Chinese 2 position sheath, I usually have it parallel to my belt, so it stays out of the way when I'm on the tractor for hours on end. The 110 just feels right in my hand too. SOLID. It is the better of the two knives, hands down.

I really don't give a damn about "cutting paper" or "scaring the hair off your arm" with an EDC, as I DO need a knife that'll handle a day's work with me and be there day after day, with just a little maintenance. If one of these "inferior" knives falls apart, I'll be happy to honestly report that, too. I just don't see it happing for a while, though.

Note...I do carry an old Leatherman "PST" too. I like to use a knife as a knife, and a screwdriver when I need a screwdriver. I've beat the snot out of it for Good Lord I can't remember how long, and it's still just as useful as the day I received it (FREE, Marlboro promotion). I even like how it's loosened up over time so that opening the pliers from out of the sheath, is real reminiscent of working a balisong. FUN. -FNR.
 
Well, I've found the Gerber Paraframes to be some of the worst junk in the Knife World that I've ever encountered. It'll cut roots and open sealed bags of food just fine, but cutting plastic or anything with any hardness at all just sends it running. I bought a computer part sealed in plastic and the Paraframe only put marks on it. I hesitated to use more force fearing it would glance off the packaging and end up in my arm. Anyway, it was dreadful. I've seen more formidible letter openers.

Never had a Buck 110, but judging from its weight and the steel grade, I'll stick with AUS 8 blades or better. But I don't want anything less than 440 in a knife anymore. Plus with the Paraframes, you may get a better grade of steel in yours than I get in mine. Why? Because they're 400-series stainless, which means the company can use anything from 410 to 440 and not change its packaging. So you'll never know what you're getting.

My momma always said, buyin' Gerbers was like buyin' a box of chocolates....
 
The .45 automatic is still an awesome gun design, by the way. I don't think too many serious gun owners would argue with this.
 
Mine's a series 1 Kimber Custom Classic that made a trip through the Custom shop before coming to me. It outshoots most any Gold Cup that I've ever seen. I feed 2 FAL's, an M1A, a Savage M10FP .308, Remington Sendero .300WinMag, Savage .222 M340, M96 Swedish Mauser, Long Branch No.4MkI, an ancient Remington M10 pump 12 gauge, Winchester 94/22XTR, 2 Ruger MkII's, NAA .22, the Kimber, a Browning HiPower, and a 2 (soon to be 3) caliber Glock 27.

And I still scrape up money to spend on a few knives...:eek:
 
give me a colt 45 auto and a buck 110 or case trapper and this country boy will survive.the rest is just because i want it.
david
 
The Buck 110 is a true classic. Technology has over the years has given us much better performing steels but 420HCS will still do the job. I ordered a custom one a number of years back with a BG-42 blade and until recently never used it. Cuts great and feels good in the hand. Some things are just timeless and the Buck 110 is one of them. ;)
 
Those who use and carry knives may find the Buck 110 is a bit too heavy. And though the 420HC blade steel may "do the job," I think the knife's strength is that it's reliable and strong. It's clearly an outdoormen's knife and many hunters have used it for years without complaint. I like that the company offers the knife with various steel options.
 
The Buck 110 is a knife that has been around for generations. Its the one that started a lot of the trend to heavy duty locks and most of the ones I've had have been very impressive knives for the money. I realize some think that the 110s time has come and gone but thats not true. These still sell quite well and are still affordable to the average working man. They are one of the better deals out there in 'beater' knives in my opinion.

For those that think this knife's time has come and gone just because it is outdated by not being equipped with a pocket clip or thumb stud option for easy one hand opening consider that it is quite simple to bring one up to date if thats all that is keeping you from liking it. I've probably done a dozen conversions in the past year for forum members on this very popular knife and even with the beefy lock spring they have in them its certainly not painful to one hand open them using a thumb stud.

As for the locks on these knives: I have had these 110s apart on several occasions in my life to not only replace broken blades for others knives but to see the insides out of curiousity just to inspect them. Their locks are beefy and so is the spring and most always plenty reliable, but granted a lemon can always get out now and again even in the best of knives.

In general regarding this knife I fail to see how anyone can complain about it knowing what I know about the way its built. For the money they are a fine quality made USA product we should be proud of. In many ways they are superior in lock strength and overall quality of workmanship to knives four and five times the cost . If they came with a higher quality blade steel the price point would rise and to be perfectly honest with you, I've never had a complaint about the edge my 110 has on it or how it keeps it. Its the best performing lower grade stainless blade I have. Mabye I got a good one but truthfully I've read the same things here from others.

STR
 
I still think the Cabela's Alaskan Guide 110 is the best deal, getting you a very nice-looking S30V blade with brass and "cherry wood" handles. I carry mine in a Benchmade Bali sheath horizontally, and it's a perfect fit. With a heat treat by Paul Bos, you can't go wrong. It's still cheaper than sending in a Wal-Mart 420HC for the BG-42 blade. I still would love to have the lighter feel of the 560 "Buckbenza" and will keep looking for a good deal.

Daniel
 
420HC is not 420J2..don't mix em up. Better than certain Chinese 440 series steels. They used to be 440C and 425M, til certain people complained that they were too hard to sharpen. Buck 110s are pretty much indestructable, as long as you keep the wood dry.
 
. . . try the 112 in BG42. I've got one and it's sweet. Solid and sharp. What more could you want in a knife? :)

Andy
 
Buck does a great job on the 420HC. I have no problems keeping an edge on my 110 and it does get used trust me. I think its a fine steel for toughness and corrosion resistance and although I have nothing against most S30V blades I've owned (other than chips coming off the edges on some) I have to wonder how well that S30V blade would fair in the hands of the masses in the 110.

You are not going to get away with too many nail scrapings and caulking removals to pull out an old window to replace with a new one using that CPMS30V blade. Its hard enough on a cheapy blade but I've witnessed the guys from Sears doing it when we had our new windows installed. We talked about that at the time and he told me he has had that knife for many years. It looked it too but the lock up and the function was all fine. It would barely cut butter though but he sure worked the hell out of it.

STR
 
STR said:
Buck does a great job on the 420HC. I have no problems keeping an edge on my 110 and it does get used trust me.
STR
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I agree the STR completely. I have never needed to quit a cutting task w/ my 112 because it was so dull it wouldn't function. 420HC isn't the best steel out there. I'm sure most would agree, but to say the the 110 is past it's time is completely wrong. How many would say the Case stockman is past it's time?

The knife is priced so the average working man can afford it, use it, and I would venture to guess it will be that way for a long time to come.

How many of us knife nuts really complain about putting an edge on our knives anyway. I have knives that definitely will hold an edge longer, but I like to put a razor edge on my knives. I don't consider it a pain in the a$$, it's something I enjoy.
 
I have a Buck 110, the lockup is incredible, and I keep a hair-popping sharp edge on it. The steel doesn't hold an edge as well as some of my other knives, but pretty good.

If you say the lock was bad, then it was a factory defect.
If you say it doesn't hold an edge worth a damn, then I would say you need to learn how to sharpen your knives.

From your comments, I get the impression that you have a pakistani Buck 110 knockoff. post a pic of the knife, perhaps.


Confederate said:
Man, I'm gonna get crucified for saying this, but Buck 110s are a knife whose time has come and gone. The blade is 420HC and has those ol' fingernail slits, but the lockup should be good. The knife is made with different blade types and people who like 'em are like the owners of .45 automatics (they kind of overrate the product), but it's all subjective. I'm not a hunter or an outdoorsman, but I don't see buying a 420HC blade when I can get much better for the same $$$.

Back in its time it was a probably a pretty decent knife -- way ahead of its time, in fact -- but now the debate is how gracefully its aging.
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Confederate said:
Never had a Buck 110, but judging from its weight and the steel grade, I'll stick with AUS 8 blades or better. But I don't want anything less than 440 in a knife anymore.
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So your opinion is based on imagination instead of experience.

I guess ignorance is bliss.

:rolleyes:
 
It helps that Paul Bos is the man behind Bucks heat treat. I don't know about you but I'll take a good heat treatment any day of the week.
 
GarageBoy said:
Buck 110s are pretty much indestructable, as long as you keep the wood dry.
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Well, I wouldn't plan on prying much with that thin tip, but otherwise I agree. BTW - I love that thin tip, I get so sick of these tactical things that will penetrate armor, but remove half a pound of flesh if you try to dig out a splinter. My 110 was stolen and I went to a 560 with the BG-42 upgrade and it really rocks, it's my favorite knife.:thumbup: :thumbup:

Gordon
 
Rat Finkenstein said:
So your opinion is based on imagination instead of experience. I guess ignorance is bliss.
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No, but it's not based on wishful thinking, either. I've hefted Buck 110s and they're too heavy for my taste. I also know enough about blade steel to know that 420HC is pretty good in this knife, but it's not miracle metal. I've seen that it doesn't have thumb studs or any easy opening and I prefer knives that do. It's just preference.

Knives also aren't an emotional thing with me nor do I engage in chest thumping over them. I pick them based on what I like and the overall quality of the blade, lock, and grind. Bucks are fine for some people, but what I said I believe. They're just a bit behind the times.
 
The_Knife_Edge said:
The .45 automatic is still an awesome gun design, by the way. I don't think too many serious gun owners would argue with this.
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You know they make them now with better sights and hi capacity mags. That kind a negates the whole "1911 is outdated" argument.

Kinda the same deal with the Buck 110. You can get them with BG-42 and have them converted to an automatic opener; it would be just as "modern" as a nice new Benchmade at that point; you could have a BG42 110 converted to automatic and still be under $200 even...
 
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