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allenC said:Of couse we all want the best blade-steel possible, but there is alot more to cutting performance than just the type of steel used--there is also grind and geometry to consider.
IMO, the Buck 110 has an excellent blade grind and geometry, and it is a very efficient cutter.
The tip is not too strong, but that does not make it inferior since it is very useful for fine tip-work.
And 420HC is not a bad steel and it does most daily tasks with ease.
But just for us knife nuts Buck also has the 110 available in ATS-34 and BG-42.
And Cabela's has an exclusive Buck 110 with S30V for less than $70.00 dollars. And it comes with a very nice belt pouch.
I've never had a Buck 110 with a weak lock, ever.
They have all been every bit as strong as my Spyderco lockbacks.
And since they have a top-notch warranty department, if you did get one with a defective lock, all you need to do is mail it them and they will make it right for you.
I'll also give praise for the simple beauty of the Buck 110.
The brass and wood are simply beautiful, especially compared to black FRN and black G-10.
And speaking of the handle...the 110's handle is one of the most comfortable handles in the knife world.
I've cut for very long periods of time and never developed a hotspot or blister.
The handle does'nt even fatigue my hand very easily.
The only real problems with the 110 are three things IMO:
1. It is very heavy--but not much more heavy than a Spyderco Chinook or Manix.
2. It has no pocket-clip.
3. Although it is easy to open with one hand right now, a thumbstud would make it easier and more safe.
Allen.
rev_jch said:Ive always had pretty good luck with them!
The new ones are 420HC, but they really are not that bad. Im not a fan of 420, but the heat treat buck gives it is decent for the steel that it is. And for that matter they are using 420HC (not cheaper 420). They use to use 425 mod. before that (mid 90's?), before that it was 440c. Ive owned a few of all the named (used them for over 20+ years). I also have cabela's alaskan 110 in rosewood and S30V, and a couple custom 110's in sambar stag and ATS-34. Ive owned one buck that the lockup was loose on, but that was many years ago. I never sent it in, but had I, buck would have made it right. The ones I have now the lockup is really tight on them. Their customer service is really good. Like anything else a few fall through the cracks. They cannot produce as many knives as they have, and do (continue to) and everything always be perfect.
I personally do not feel hat the 110 has run its course. Its been popular for over 30+ year and still doing fine. It's probably the most popular selling lockback in american cutlery history.
Also, there are allot more knifeknuts out there than ones who are interested in tacticals, walker locks, linerlocks, one-handers, etc.
I use a little bit of everything, and I find theres nothing finer than a custom 110 on a belt while camping/hiking!
rev_jch said:JPD1998, well now is the time to look for them! Queen, case, boker, and others are producing some really great "classic" slipjoints these days. I remember it wasnt so long ago (17+years ago) that nice bone handled slipjoints were not that easy to find, but now things are different! You could call it the "2nd' golden age of the slipjoint!!
allenC said:Here's a link to some awesome pics of the 110 and the Cabela's Alaskan Guide 110:
http://www.pbase.com/gary777/cabelas_buck_110_knife
Confederate said:With all the small field sharpeners on the market today?? Sheeesh!
Evil Eye Earl said:Go to your neighborhood auto parts store and buy some spray brake clean.wear safety goggles use outdoors and spray inside and outside the knife.if you have an air blower use it to dry off the knife or use a hair drier
away from where you sprayed and outdoors after the knife is dry wipe it with mineral oil ,you can get it at your local drug store.Safety note donot use the hair drier around the knife if it is still dripping with brake clean or if it is rainning.