Buck 110 from Walmart

Geddinight said:
DM, I watched Archie Bunker as a young person and saw the show for what it was. Funny. An average guy, being an average guy.

As far as a Walmart 110, it's a great value. As long as it doesn't rub on one side or the other, it's great. I have plenty of 110's, but if I needed another, I wouldn't hesitate to get a WM 110. I do like leather sheaths though.

The generation thing is a horse of another color. You can't pay what you pay and expect the same quality as you do for something ten times over. Buck does do a great job at coming really, really, really close though.
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My Local Lowes carries 110's and they have the leather sheath for around 40 bucks. They're in the tool dept in the utility knife section.
 
"maybe it sometimes happens unofficially when there's a pile of knives with small problems and somebody says, "We don't have time to fix all these........let's just send them to WalMart They'll take anything!!!""

Vorpal,
This is the line that didn't sit right with me. I did over react to that line

The 110s are all in one big stock location and get shipped to whoever needs it.
 
J Hubbard said:
"maybe it sometimes happens unofficially when there's a pile of knives with small problems and somebody says, "We don't have time to fix all these........let's just send them to WalMart They'll take anything!!!""

Vorpal,
This is the line that didn't sit right with me. I did over react to that line

The 110s are all in one big stock location and get shipped to whoever needs it.
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No problem......I was just offering possible and potentially funny answers to the issue in question, not that it would actually ever happen (although strange and unbelievable things do sometimes happen in this world).

Nice of you to think of me, though. I appreciate it.
 
VorpalRain said:
I paid $16 for a 110 in 1969. A dollar of that era would be worth about $7 today, so a 110 today should cost about 16X7 or $112 to account for inflation.
Yes, the 1969 knife was better than today's knife, but really only slightly better and one could argue certain pros and cons.
I'd say today's buyers are getting an astoundingly good value.
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Agreed.
 
sassafrassdogs3 said:
LOL!! Sorry I did get off subject there. I do the same thing as Gedlicks but I don't bang them I apply easy constant pressure in the correct direction and pull it out to check progress , this may take a couple of times to correct your problem.
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Thank you SassaFrassaDogs !!!
That fix still concerns me. I would "think" that if everything re-aligned with moderate pressure then it is just a matter of time, and use before it falls back to its original shape.
Now IF the knife started out centered, and something happened to change that, I can see moderate pressure being the solution.


Mr. JHubbard.
Is there a prescribed method for addressing blade alignment issues? OR is it a matter of you get what you got, and that's the end of the story.

Just a simple question about a simple knife from a fella looking to learn a few things each day...
 
tom19176 said:
Other than a blade scraping the bottom bolster when closing it, I really don't get all the concern of a blade being centered when closed.....For the price and what you get ( a great value) is it REALLY an issue that the blade is not centered when closed?? I just don't see how any one would care or most people even notice.....I have bought the tins on close out from a big box store for $20.....Never cared if the blade was center closed....I know we all have different standards, but I am not sure how this matters.....
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I agree. Blade centering was never really on my radar until I started hanging out in knife forums.
 
I don't think I have a 110 or 112 that doesn't have a little play when the blade is closed, so if I want it centered...I push it over a little :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:. When it's closed it's in my sheath anyway. I'd say just roll with it. I'd rather have one that has solid lock up when it's open rather than perfectly centered when it's closed. I'm more picky about centering with other knives, but not with lock backs like 110's or 112's....
 
Bigbobg said:
I think it's pretty amazing that Buck offers an American made knife built from brass, wood and stainless steel for less than $20!
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Just curious as to what knife you are buying for less than $20.00 and where? Preston
 
GANZO!

holy-grail.jpg
 
If you need a cosmetically perfect 110, buy one from the Buck custom shop. That's why you pay the extra money for it, so that you get enhanced cosmetics or enhanced blade steel.
If you just need a good knife, buy the run-of-the-mill 110.

I'm just an old user who has been using carrying Buck knives since the 1960's. All I need is a knife that cuts, so a common 110 completely needs my needs. As long as the blade is centered enough that it does not rub the liners, there is nothing functionally wrong with the knife. YMMV.
 
Zombie411 said:
Mechanically I can see setting the knife upright/slight diagonal on a stable surface, and giving the side with greater clearance a slight wack with a plastic hammer.
Sort of shifting the liners/scales a few thousandths.
I also understand the pitfalls of doing this.

Is the above an acceptable method for correcting these slight mis-alignments?
Is there a better non intrusive way to do this?
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My new Buck 110 has off centered blade so I'm about to do that with a rubber hammer...
Can I ask what is the pitfalls of doing that?
 
W worqgui had quite the bureaucratic process to get his knife, if I remember right you're South Korean? anyway I had a problem with a Case Copperhead awhile back and got some good tips in a thread
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...ves-old-to-new.1134543/page-297#post-21077953 around post #5918-5927, watch that video a couple times and slowly build up force. too bad you have to deal with this since it is impossible to send back to Buck for you. good luck
 
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