I'm not following. what part are ya calling the blade radius? thank you Sir.I just recreated this accidently I think. I was cycle testing a 110 and forgot to oil it. The blade radius became galled up and took off enough material to allow the blade to hang down freely and not lock up any more.. Likely OPs was galled from the factory (thus the gritty feel) and no amount of breaking in would help as the material is already gone. Just an educated S.W.A.G.
Amen, I won't lie I was so hoping you would say that.
I will try to mail it tomorrow. Thanking you and The Buck Family in advance.the back end of the blade that the rocker rides on to the open and closed position. It is polished out, but if we open and close it without oil, it gets scored and never recovers even after adding oil.
No thanks needed, its what we do.Amen, I won't lie I was so hoping you would say that.
understood. thank you Sir for the follow up. appreciated.
But mine have gone many years of everyday use and I had never put any oil on them and no galling?
Never heard of that either. So damaged the blade flops free?
.....No thanks needed, its what we do.
I don't know about others, but the one that I am sending back does exactly that. I only have a few 110's and compared to many here I am a knife neophyte although I love my Bucks, but yes, the problem seems to have been from the factory although I oiled the knife numerous times and cleaned it thoroughly about a half dozen times, when it finally smoothed out it just got limp and flopped free.
Once we put the initial oil on it, it will be ok for a long time unless you flush it out and remove all the oil. oils do degrade over time, so a drop of oil now and then never hurts. the galling typically occur if we close the knife dry during assembly.
Galling is usually the result of 2 similar stainless steels adhering to each other and trying to rejoin, causing deformities on a microscopic level and increasing friction. The OP's 110 pro probably has S30V blade steel and despite extensive searching, I can't find a reference to the exact steel Buck uses for its lockbars, but something tells me it is 410 or 420 stainless. I'm having a hard time imagining the end of the lockbar removing enough material on s30v tang to turn it into, essentially, a slipjoint, unless the 2 similar steels have been heat treated to the same hardness, which increases the likelihood of galling.
Maybe Jeff can verify if the material was removed from the lockbar, the tang radius or both. A picture of the disassemble knife would be very telling.
Knife was in the mail yesterday AM...I trust Buck Knives and the company culture at Buck.
They kinda have to fix it or replace it.. Product failure.
Cool, but why was it always so gritty, even from the first day? Thanks also for the quick turn around as I have noted it in the post as of Friday, again thank you.
