Both those knives look to have come close to the mark, but missed it in the end. Why no plain edge, why "traction" coating on stainless blade & why is everything hollow ground? I love Buck but if they want to get into the survial business they need to take the full leap. It is a good start, just make a few alterations.
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Buck reaper ***NEW AND IMPROVED*** back from StoneKnifeWorks
- Thread starter mbjannusch
- Start date
Thanks for the reviews.
Noting the difference between inexpensive and cheap, I've not understood the high prices fetched by the Beckers, ESEE and other knives of that sort. We're talking about a slab of a blade with riveted or screwed on scales. I would think that production costs on this style of knife is about as low as possible and barely a step up from the non-scaled knives.
The theory of premium pricing suggests that consumers perceive a brand to be premium if the price is held high. Bose speakers and Patagonia fleece are examples. Very odd.
Perhaps Buck could come out with after market scales? Looks like just torx screws holding them on?
Jeff, I agree.
They could have a big impact undercutting the high prices of the Becker, ESEE knives and getting closer to the Mora price points.
But they gotta fix the grind. A flatter sabre grind would fix it. I'd pay $50 - $60 for a flat ground Endeavor with a plain edge. Happily.
They could have a big impact undercutting the high prices of the Becker, ESEE knives and getting closer to the Mora price points.
But they gotta fix the grind. A flatter sabre grind would fix it. I'd pay $50 - $60 for a flat ground Endeavor with a plain edge. Happily.
pinnah, well said! Buck is in a poaition to grab a large share of the outdoorsy type crowd, which i would like to see them do & quickly. They came close this time around but as they say "missed it by that much" . I would love to see a sabre or full flat grind on a 4 & 1/2 inch non serrated blade, no choil (hate em), decent sheath and I would be OK with the current 420HC as it is great steel IMO. Toss on some decent rubber scales and presto a $50.00 giant killer is born.
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Based on the pictures, it would seem that the handle got in the way and maybe who ever removed the coating didn't have the proper tools for the job. I leave the tough stuff to the Pros, That way I don't have to blame myself for a bad job. We'll see when I get my knife back.
I believe the knife was abused and the coating was messed up. They painted it to sell it on the bay, looked like they just dunked it in the paint can. All I did was use paint remover to remove the paint and I guess the remaining coating. It was of no use to me the way it was.
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I would have done the same thing. Its a good blade, you should consider getting it fixed. It could be a really nice knife with some work.
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You should contact Heath Stone of Stoneknifeworks (stoneknifeworks.com) and get it customized and looking pretty. Heath does great work and and for a decent price.
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Got the knife (reaper) in the mail the other day. My thoughts on it were that it felt a bit light, the coating is as I figured, "got to go" , and the handle feels cheap and it needs to "go" as well. I turned it around and shipped it to Heath Stone for a make over. Heath works very quickly and we'll see what the verdict will be when it comes back...
I'll keep everybody posted...
I'll keep everybody posted...
My sense is that grind preference is influenced a lot by common cutting tasks, which obviously change person to person.
My sense is that hollow grinds do best when the material being cut separates on it own as it is being cut. Cutting rope (as in some sharpness tests) and meat might be examples of that.
IME, flatter ground blades do better with materials that don't separate on their own when cut. The issue is the sharp rise of the shoulder at the transition to the spine. It can hang up and cause noticeable drag. I notice this most when working on wood or cutting hard vegatables like squash. In particular, my convex ground knives really excell with those sorts of material as the convex grind does the forcing apart early. You will note that most kitchen knives and most popular survival/bushcraft knives have flatter, non-hollow grinds for this reason. Full flat, Scandi, convex and saber grinds are all popular.
If you have a chance, use a hollow ground knife side by each with a flatter ground knife. Depending on what you regularly cut, you may notice a difference.
My sense is that hollow grinds do best when the material being cut separates on it own as it is being cut. Cutting rope (as in some sharpness tests) and meat might be examples of that.
IME, flatter ground blades do better with materials that don't separate on their own when cut. The issue is the sharp rise of the shoulder at the transition to the spine. It can hang up and cause noticeable drag. I notice this most when working on wood or cutting hard vegatables like squash. In particular, my convex ground knives really excell with those sorts of material as the convex grind does the forcing apart early. You will note that most kitchen knives and most popular survival/bushcraft knives have flatter, non-hollow grinds for this reason. Full flat, Scandi, convex and saber grinds are all popular.
If you have a chance, use a hollow ground knife side by each with a flatter ground knife. Depending on what you regularly cut, you may notice a difference.
My sense is that grind preference is influenced a lot by common cutting tasks, which obviously change person to person.
My sense is that hollow grinds do best when the material being cut separates on it own as it is being cut. Cutting rope (as in some sharpness tests) and meat might be examples of that.
IME, flatter ground blades do better with materials that don't separate on their own when cut. The issue is the sharp rise of the shoulder at the transition to the spine. It can hang up and cause noticeable drag. I notice this most when working on wood or cutting hard vegatables like squash. In particular, my convex ground knives really excell with those sorts of material as the convex grind does the forcing apart early. You will note that most kitchen knives and most popular survival/bushcraft knives have flatter, non-hollow grinds for this reason. Full flat, Scandi, convex and saber grinds are all popular.
If you have a chance, use a hollow ground knife side by each with a flatter ground knife. Depending on what you regularly cut, you may notice a difference.
My sense is that hollow grinds do best when the material being cut separates on it own as it is being cut. Cutting rope (as in some sharpness tests) and meat might be examples of that.
IME, flatter ground blades do better with materials that don't separate on their own when cut. The issue is the sharp rise of the shoulder at the transition to the spine. It can hang up and cause noticeable drag. I notice this most when working on wood or cutting hard vegatables like squash. In particular, my convex ground knives really excell with those sorts of material as the convex grind does the forcing apart early. You will note that most kitchen knives and most popular survival/bushcraft knives have flatter, non-hollow grinds for this reason. Full flat, Scandi, convex and saber grinds are all popular.
If you have a chance, use a hollow ground knife side by each with a flatter ground knife. Depending on what you regularly cut, you may notice a difference.
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Hollow grinds seem to have worked well for Buck for a long time now. If it's ain't broke, no need to fix it. Folks that think other grinds are better, should just buy the brands that use the grind that they like.
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I'm looking forward to seeing the results when you get it back. Maybe Heath can turn that "pigs ear" into a "silk purse" so to speak.