Building a 2x72 - what to look for in a motor? Edit: Done

Many thanks bros! So far 2HP (3600) Ironhorse and China VFD are a go - Ill scrape together a filtered box for the VFD.

Next is wheels. Looking at these at OBM (this is a link Ken) lol :)

Then, who has the "cheap" belts? Ill be making 1 big order on different belts to try. Any tips there are appreciated. This is not a knife making setup as much as just a general use machine....wood and metal.
 
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For belts, go with Pop's Knife Supply.

Wheels are sort of a "you get what you pay for" thing. The OBM ones are popular with guys on a budget, but don't expect them to last as long as the better wheels. Same thing fo using skate board wheels for the idler/guide wheels. They won't last like turned aluminum or proper rubber coated wheels. Bearings are the same way.
 
Cheap belts are a false economy IMO. You'll burn through $50 of cheap belts well before you'll burn through $50 of the more expensive brands, all other things being equal. When you get into making knives to sell, you'll soon realize belts are made to be used and tossed without a second thought. "Treat belts like they're free" is good advice, though it may not sound like it yet. Fresh, quality belts will cut exactly where and how you want them too. Cheaper and worn belts start causing more trouble than they're worth.

As for the wheels, OBM are a good value for the money. I think VWJackStraw makes the best wheels for the money right now, though they are a little more expensive. I don't recall if OBMs come with the center spacer like VWJackstraw's wheels... that's definitely a useful thing to have.
 
Instead of the word "cheap", I should say best bang for buck...for a non professional weekend warrior.

The wheels I linked do have the crush sleeve spacer. They all look the sameo_O
 
GripnCOLDSTEEL said:
Instead of the word "cheap", I should say best bang for buck...for a non professional weekend warrior.

The wheels I linked do have the crush sleeve spacer. They all look the sameo_O
Click to expand...

Honestly, I'm sure you'll be more than happy with the OBM wheels. I've bought from him in the past, and the quality was just fine. I say I prefer the VWjackstraw wheels just because he offers a 5" drive wheel, and uses bearings with wider inner races (which means you don't need a machine bushing to bolt them on with a standard bolt), and the fit and finish just seemed nicer over all.

Functionally, I'd say they're probably the same, and after 6 months of grinding, the fit and finish won't mean much anyway. ;)
 
I got the composit wheels from obm and they did not have a bearing spacers. I cooked a bearing followed by my wheel. My bad.
knife to a gunfight said:
Cheap belts are a false economy IMO. You'll burn through $50 of cheap belts well before you'll burn through $50 of the more expensive brands, all other things being equal. When you get into making knives to sell, you'll soon realize belts are made to be used and tossed without a second thought. "Treat belts like they're free" is good advice, though it may not sound like it yet. Fresh, quality belts will cut exactly where and how you want them too. Cheaper and worn belts start causing more trouble than they're worth.

As for the wheels, OBM are a good value for the money. I think VWJackStraw makes the best wheels for the money right now, though they are a little more expensive. I don't recall if OBMs come with the center spacer like VWJackstraw's wheels... that's definitely a useful thing to have.
Click to expand...
 
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Thanks. I got the alumium wheels with the bearing spacers.

Went for these on ebay are just a little more than the composite here (4" drive wheel tho)

with ebay coupon (now expired)
$82 shipped for the wheel set
$58 China VFD
And the motor is $158.

Still need belts, obviously alot to research there.

Still a really reasonable price, for what im doing. Thanks bros.
 
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$58 for VFD? That's a darn good price. $72 is the best I've purchased. Got a link to the VFD?

What motor did you get? $158 is better than the $160 shipped for the Ironhorse 3ph 2hp motor. You got it going good. The solid aluminum platen wheels will work just fine, that's what I used for a yr or so until I found the skateboard wheels. I like them MUCH better because solid metal isn't as nice for grinding on and I grind on the top platen wheel fairly often.

You've got the parts - now let's build {g}

Ken H>
 
I bought the Ironhorse motor.

The VFD is the ebay china unit Drew posted, they happened to have a 1 day 15% off coupon for it and the wheel set.
 
GripnCOLDSTEEL said:
Instead of the word "cheap", I should say best bang for buck...for a non professional weekend warrior.
Click to expand...
Because you have Limited weekend hours to grind you are better off purchasing better quality belts...yeah they are going to be a few dollars more but will save you time in the LONG RUN not having to chase bad grind lines. Quality belts cut cleaner, smoother, cooler than their economy counter parts...Economy belts should be used for cleaning scale and handle shaping. What you will discover is that the quality belts will also out last economy belts in the lower grit range.
 
I'd agree with this. The difference between a worn belt and new belt isn't just grind time and heat but also quality of cut. You get very crisp lines with a new belt and smudges with worn belt. Good ceramics last way longer. Check for norton blaze or 3m cubitron. Vsm are ok to start with but I like blaze much better now. I just ground 4 chefs and 3 utilities this morning with 1 50 grit blaze. Use old belts for profiling, wood and starting bevels.
Busto said:
Because you have Limited weekend hours to grind you are better off purchasing better quality belts...yeah they are going to be a few dollars more but will save you time in the LONG RUN not having to chase bad grind lines. Quality belts cut cleaner, smoother, cooler than their economy counter parts...Economy belts should be used for cleaning scale and handle shaping. What you will discover is that the quality belts will also out last economy belts in the lower grit range.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks. Im open to belt suggestion, ill be ordering some soon.

Got most of my scrap together yesterday, just need a few more pieces (and parts to show up!)

Is there a downside to using solid square for the tool rest and platen arm?

(standard 2"/1.5" square tube build)
 
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I think solid would be prefered. I used tube and have no issues. I do want to get solid aluminum so i can drill and slot it so my rests and tools are mounted on round stock that can be adjust. Look at the Travis wurtz grinder to see what i mean.




GripnCOLDSTEEL said:
Thanks. Im open to belt suggestion, ill be ordering some soon.

Got most of my scrap together yesterday, just need a few more pieces (and parts to show up!)

Is there a downside to using solid square for the tool rest and platen arm?

(standard 2"/1.5" square tube build)
Click to expand...
 
kdnolin said:
That’s impressive! I have got to try the Blaze.
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I only do this as a hobby so I'm willing to take more time to grind. After a couple blades you do notice the loss of performance and need to carefully watch the heat build up. A new belt always makes me smile how fast it cuts. I do hear many prefer the cubitrons to the blade. I haven't tried cubitrons.
 
Just a note that I burnt out my 2nd scr motor controller yesterday and have a couple ordered and on the way. That one big problem with treadmill motors. You were smart to go the vfd route.
 
Ameriblade wheels, China VFD and Ironhorse motor all just showed up. Gonna start making noise soon. Ill be sure to post some pics.
 
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