Building my 120vac oven

That 6A is just a part number or something. The specs will be listed something like: 120VAC 0.6 A, 1150RPM

6 amps is almost one horsepower .... and would be a lot bigger than your palm.
 
wont last long, motors require magnetism for rotation its not sealed. guess where the fines will go? right inside the motor
 
kn4wd said:
wont last long, motors require magnetism for rotation its not sealed. guess where the fines will go? right inside the motor
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He can make something like this ....for wood working ? Or for scotch brite wheel . . .
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I got the protective hull cut out. I am not sure if the side pieces will stay, depends on the door. I will weld a frame out of angle iron to hold the two halves together and also give a secure mount for the door and electric box.

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My wife is freaking out on me haha
 
I am welding the angle iron frame, and am wondering about where i should plan to mount the thermocouple. I know stacey said to have it stick in 2 inches. I would guess that means mount it to the top in the middle? Surely not 2 inches from the back, right?
 
Yes...Mount the TC through the top middle of the chamber that should give you the best chamber area temp readings. And yes the Ceramic/Kaowool is a good idea those bricks radiate lots of heat and the exterior will be HOT. Make the top removable so you can remove the top bricks if you have to replace the element in the future.
 
I was thinking about ease of access. I will cut the top piece so it is just a single panel and can slide in. The angle iron will protect the corner. I will consider kaowool, i just hadnt seen anyone use it. I have watched two videos of people using the same k23 bricks i am in the same chamber design get the oven up to temp and then lay their hand on the outside. Are we talking hot after hours of use or hot instantly?
 
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natlek said ....."He can make something like this ....for wood working ? Or for scotch brite wheel . . .".

natlek, that small fan motor will likely stall with two fingers. It won't power any sort of grinding/sanding tool.

That is what the Bill Burke upgrade on a Paragon is about.
It doesn't need to be refractory wool, like used to build a forge ( but that will work fine), as long as it is capable of toleration around 300-400F. There are foil backed sheet insulation that works well as a outer layer over all the brick and metal shell. Reflect-a-cool is only one type.
I like the rigid 1" foil backed board type called Roxul. Use high temp metal duct tape ( not regular duct tape) to tape the pieces together. It cuts with a sharp knife and is easy to build an outer shell for a forge or oven. No need for an outer case, as the insulation board makes its own.
 
That is what i will plan to do then, stacey. I cant spend anymore money right now, though. I need to wait a few weeks. I have already cut the angle iron so it is a use it or lose kind of thing now. I will finish welding it and forgoe the sheet metal which has a lot of pressed portions and is not real attractive. I will make the angle iron frame and good hinge and door to hold the bricks, and then wrap it with insulating foam or board afterward when i get it. I think i will go ahead and make the electric box but just not attach it to the frame yet. I will leave the thermocouple long for now and just remove ceramic shield sections and slide the wires through the mount so i can set it to the right depth for now, that way i can trim to length when i am finished with the outer wrap.

I will try a test run without the extra insulation so i can modify the coils if needed and then when i get the wrap i can just tape it on and go with it.
 
I got the frame welded up. It is the first time i have welded a box. I took my time, and all the correaponding diagonal measurements are within 1/16". I am also out of welding wire. I will pick up sone more wire and get a few more welds on to get some real welding practice which i need.

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It is pretty tight side to side, i dont want them shifting on me, but it isnt so tight i will lose but a little dust anytime i take the bricks in or out. I left some extra room up top since those bricks will get moved in and out the most, and also gravity works to my favor and it doesnt need to be tight there.
 
I got the electric box the way i like it. This was my 3rd attempt, and i figured out i needed to score the metal with a dremel to help bend it to sharp 90 degree angles. I figured out a clever way to fold it so it had 5 sides and one tab i fold over to hold it all rigid. I am actually pretty proud of this. I will use some mesh from the microwave door for the back and will easily be able to wire everything with the back removed.
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I will run a few screws into the wood to hold it all solid. I think the ssr will go on the mesh, that way it is easy to wire and maintain.
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I got the box all wired up and tested it out and it is going to work fine.

Next thing i am going to do is the door. I have some real sturdy hinges that i will bolt to the side pieces of metal on the frame. I intentionally ran the vertical frame pieces on the outside so i had room for a bolt head on the inside and not scrap away at the bricks.

I got to thinking that over time, there might form gaps around the door. To help mitigate this, i think i need the door to be a little flexible and use a spring loaded latch to hold the door up tight. I know there is some high temp rope stuff you can get to seal the door better, i may do that if need be.

I got to looking and roxul 1200 degree insulation is fairly cheap, i ordered some and will have it soon hopefully.

I am questioning how i will eventually mount the electric box to the oven. I may weld some rod i have to the top of the frame and make a U shape with the bend of the U sticking over the side, then use some hose clamp things to bolt the box to the U shaped rod.

Speaking of hose clamps, i will secure the power cord to the wall of the box with some clamps so if i trip over the power cord or something it wont jerk connections loose.

I have a bolt going through the box that i have grounded with the switches and power cord, and i can run a small wire to frame temporarily for now.

I decided to use a solid piece of sheet metal for the box aince my shop gets dusty. I will use the mesh from the microwave door to protect the element connections.

I really need the weekend to get here.
 
I would suggest mounting the control box on 1"or 2" stand-offs to get it away from the hot shell. I also wouldn't clamp the power cord to the frame until you know how hot it is going to get.
 
I finally got a good days work in. Just need to put in the heating element and rig up my spring loaded door latch and i am ready for a teat run. Should get the roxul in a few days.

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I am not a good welder. This is the second thing i have ever welded. Dont judge me. I had to grind of and reweld each joint twice i think. I started getting the hang of it, but i need more welding practice. The thing is solid though and it will stay together.
 
Success!

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I set it to 800 and swept my floor of all the firebrick dust, maybe 2 min, and when i checked on it it had hit 800. It bounces around +/- a few degrees. I think as time goes on it is supposed to adapt better and bring the variation to within 1 degree. We will see.

I am breaking the coil in now, try not to stress it much.
 
I didnt really want the coil going across the top in the front, but i couldnt do four rows on each side and so i didnt have much of a choice.

Coils appear they are heating evenly.

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I just want to thank everyone that helped me out. Especially stacey. Man, this is awesome! I feel like i could of done a better job building this, but it works well and will do for now.

I am sitting here in my garage at 1am thinking man, all the knives i have made before now have a crappy HT, i should of done this a long time ago.
 
Glad you are progressing and having fun.
Yes, welding looks a bit cold. Perhaps your machine is turned too low or just underpowered for the job.
Anyway..
Fwiw, Some guys are fanatical & fit interlock switch on an oven door.
Since one reaches in with metal tongs,
Prevents coils being energised when its door is open.
 
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