Bush Ranger

If you are a fan of loctite (I'm not on knives) youll need a iron anyway, you can get a iron at harbor freight for 4.99, Or borrow one. a nail might work. If all else fails you can always drill out the head on the screw as that would be easier to source than the female side.
 
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paul brown said:
If you are a fan of loctite (I'm not on knives) youll need a iron anyway, you can get a iron at harbor freight for 4.99, Or borrow one. a nail might work. If all else fails you can always drill out the head on the screw as that would be easier to source than the female side.
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30 Watt Chicago Electric? That is quite tempting.
I've drilled out screw heads before. I'm kinda wanting to not go that crazy on it.
 
jbmonkey said:
let's see if the knife designer will put some input to this topic....

W Wallace Edged Tools

thanks Mike.
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Hey everyone,
The pivot is not the standard “D” shaped pivot like most CS folders. The last 1/3 of the pivot is slotted (“D” shaped) so it nests into the handle scale on the pivot screw side. Demko and I both wanted a finer thread for the pivots for better fine tuning but it never happened. As for the pivot spinning…. The few I have have not had that issue. In the past it’s just been trial and error to get stuck pivots broke free on other folders. Sorry I don’t have a solid fix on this.
 
wallaceknives said:
Hey everyone,
The pivot is not the standard “D” shaped pivot like most CS folders. The last 1/3 of the pivot is slotted (“D” shaped) so it nests into the handle scale on the pivot screw side. Demko and I both wanted a finer thread for the pivots for better fine tuning but it never happened. As for the pivot spinning…. The few I have have not had that issue. In the past it’s just been trial and error to get stuck pivots broke free on other folders. Sorry I don’t have a solid fix on this.
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thank you Mike for that information. its appreciated.
 
Thank you very much, Mike W Wallace Edged Tools . I'm guessing this one just had so much threadlocker put on it that the D didn't hold in the G10. I'm liking the idea of the soldering iron more and more. I think if I could get the threadlocker melted, I could get enough traction on the back side with gorilla tape to get it to break free. Not sure how I would "fix" it, though. But just getting it out is the hardest part of the battle, probably.
 
dogboye said:
Thank you very much, Mike W Wallace Edged Tools . I'm guessing this one just had so much threadlocker put on it that the D didn't hold in the G10. I'm liking the idea of the soldering iron more and more. I think if I could get the threadlocker melted, I could get enough traction on the back side with gorilla tape to get it to break free. Not sure how I would "fix" it, though. But just getting it out is the hardest part of the battle, probably.
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Yeah sometimes they get a bit over zealous with the threadlocker. The ones from Italy are well known to have that issue.
Soldering iron may be what’s needed to break it loose.
 
Insipid Moniker said:
I have and love both, but I'm also a sucker for a nice clip point.
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A while back Gary Graley posted an UH for sale that he had converted to a clip point. It was a really nice mod, might not be hard to do with the right tools.

** SOLD ** Cold Steel Ultimate Hunter CTS XHP steel and G10 handle

Cold Steel Ultimate Hunter CTS XHP steel and G10 handle Great Cold steel knife with the Tri-Ad lock system tough to beat! After having it a while I took and carefully ground down the blade to make it more of a clip point blade shape, more pointy, edge is razor sharp and lockup is superior...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
 
Blue Sky said:
A while back Gary Graley posted an UH for sale that he had converted to a clip point. It was a really nice mod, might not be hard to do with the right tools.

** SOLD ** Cold Steel Ultimate Hunter CTS XHP steel and G10 handle

Cold Steel Ultimate Hunter CTS XHP steel and G10 handle Great Cold steel knife with the Tri-Ad lock system tough to beat! After having it a while I took and carefully ground down the blade to make it more of a clip point blade shape, more pointy, edge is razor sharp and lockup is superior...
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
Click to expand...
That's pretty damn slick! I think I'll keep my UH as is, though, as I find the relatively blunt drop point and orange handle seem to make it less alarming to the non-knife people I deal with than most other blades in it's size range.

And that gives me an excuse to keep both of them in the rotation. 😉
 

wallaceknives said:
Hey everyone,
The pivot is not the standard “D” shaped pivot like most CS folders. The last 1/3 of the pivot is slotted (“D” shaped) so it nests into the handle scale on the pivot screw side.
Click to expand...
I'd glue the female nut into the female side scale. you may want to file a couple of "v" notches in the scale so there is room for the super glue or epoxy (I don't know which is best) you can ask in the general forum for an answer. then i would partially clean off the threads and not use loctite. If the glue doesn't hold I think you'll have to drill or slot for a tool. good luck
 
Finally figured out why I couldn’t post a photo the other day on here: I’d let my Gold lapse. So anyway, here is how I have ground the grip on mine to make it easier/safer to close one handed. Allows me to get my index finger up where I can catch the choil with it. Less chance of getting bit.
CBABCD35-8322-44F8-83E2-8E8EA10AF505.jpeg
 
I just got my pre-GSM BR out of the safe and checked it out no rattle open or closed tight centered sharp and solid. No complaints other than it needs another inch added to the blade.
 
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