Bushcraft showdown SS4 vs Skookum

Unsub, Good job of laying out your observations here.

Few things can create controversy like politics, religion, and knives. Not a wonder that the most highly experienced outdoorsmen that I know - people who generate a living with their outdoors skills - avoid the "knife subject" altogether. Me, I figure that if the subject is not politely breached in conversation, nothing is learned.

Much confusion can be cleared up with regards to choosing the proper cutlery for the task if proper definitions are used. If a term like "bushcraft" is used in the conversation, I am thinking one thing, the other guy may be thinking something else altogether different. Without getting into what "bushcraft" actually means, just let me say that the guys over on British Blades use the term correctly. We, on the other side of the pond, use the term very, very loosely. Sometimes, completely out of context.

A few of my own personal observations about the knives mentioned in the comparison...be they right, or be they wrong.

1). I own a Skookum. Have used other Skookum's. I have also used the Scrapyard. These are very, very different knives that could never blend well on the same task.

2). Like bench planes, wood chisels, spokeshaves, drawknives, chip knives, woodturning tools (a host of others); the Scandinavian ground knives are optimized and designed for *woodcarving*. One does not chop or pound with his woodworking planes anymore than he should with his Scandinavian ground knives (silly to think so). They are not designed for this sort of activity or abuse. There are better choices for hacking, pounding, and chopping. The Scandinavian grind should be maintained like any other fine woodworking tool found in any woodworkers shop (where have we gone wrong with this idea??).

3). With regards to the strength of the Scandinavian grind, one cannot fairly compare this strength (or lack thereof) to other grinds when taken out of the woodworking context. This grind is the race car in woodcarving, not the car to run around town in.

4). In my experience with woodcarving and woodworking (not talking about the category of timber and log tools here); nothing compares with the efficiency of the Scandinavian ground knives on wood. Doesn't take an engineer to figure out why this is true. "Bushcraft" incorporates a tremendous amount of woodcarving in its practice.

5). In my knife collection (impressive to some), I have several (not of my own choosing) shorter knives with choils. I clearly understand the choil on larger knives. I clearly don't understand the choke-up choil on shorter knives. ANY knife intended for "bushcraft" (which incorporates woodcarving) should not have a choil. Why "choke-up" to the edge when you can have the edge in your front yard already with a Scandinavian knife? I have used them both and certainly don't see the logic here for the choke-up feature. To each his own.

Rod (who builds the Skookum) will arrange handle pins, bolts, lanyard holes any way the customer orders them. I agree that the Skookum is heavy for neck wear. However, a number of attachments can be made for the existing sheath that satisfies most people (we have made several here in the leather shop). I simply made a braided belt loop for mine since I like dangler sheaths.

BTW, the only knife that REALLY failed me is the U.S. issue Pilots Survival Knife (shown in your photo) when my military aircraft was forced down in a wilderness area (I was the pilot). I carried something different after that. :)
 
Unsub, Good job of laying out your observations here.

Few things can create controversy like politics, religion, and knives. Not a wonder that the most highly experienced outdoorsmen that I know - people who generate a living with their outdoors skills - avoid the "knife subject" altogether. Me, I figure that if the subject is not politely breached in conversation, nothing is learned.

Much confusion can be cleared up with regards to choosing the proper cutlery for the task if proper definitions are used. If a term like "bushcraft" is used in the conversation, I am thinking one thing, the other guy may be thinking something else altogether different. Without getting into what "bushcraft" actually means, just let me say that the guys over on British Blades use the term correctly. We, on the other side of the pond, use the term very, very loosely. Sometimes, completely out of context.

A few of my own personal observations about the knives mentioned in the comparison...be they right, or be they wrong.

1). I own a Skookum. Have used other Skookum's. I have also used the Scrapyard. These are very, very different knives that could never blend well on the same task.

2). Like bench planes, wood chisels, spokeshaves, drawknives, chip knives, woodturning tools (a host of others); the Scandinavian ground knives are optimized and designed for *woodcarving*. One does not chop or pound with his woodworking planes anymore than he should with his Scandinavian ground knives (silly to think so). They are not designed for this sort of activity or abuse. There are better choices for hacking, pounding, and chopping. The Scandinavian grind should be maintained like any other fine woodworking tool found in any woodworkers shop (where have we gone wrong with this idea??).

3). With regards to the strength of the Scandinavian grind, one cannot fairly compare this strength (or lack thereof) to other grinds when taken out of the woodworking context. This grind is the race car in woodcarving, not the car to run around town in.

4). In my experience with woodcarving and woodworking (not talking about the category of timber and log tools here); nothing compares with the efficiency of the Scandinavian ground knives on wood. Doesn't take an engineer to figure out why this is true. "Bushcraft" incorporates a tremendous amount of woodcarving in its practice.

5). In my knife collection (impressive to some), I have several (not of my own choosing) shorter knives with choils. I clearly understand the choil on larger knives. I clearly don't understand the choke-up choil on shorter knives. ANY knife intended for "bushcraft" (which incorporates woodcarving) should not have a choil. Why "choke-up" to the edge when you can have the edge in your front yard already with a Scandinavian knife? I have used them both and certainly don't see the logic here for the choke-up feature. To each his own.

Rod (who builds the Skookum) will arrange handle pins, bolts, lanyard holes any way the customer orders them. I agree that the Skookum is heavy for neck wear. However, a number of attachments can be made for the existing sheath that satisfies most people (we have made several here in the leather shop). I simply made a braided belt loop for mine since I like dangler sheaths.

BTW, the only knife that REALLY failed me is the U.S. issue Pilots Survival Knife (shown in your photo) when my military aircraft was forced down in a wilderness area (I was the pilot). I carried something different after that. :)


Very well said:thumbup:
 
I left the fancy butt cap off of my Skookum. I didn't like the idea of the T-boned, TIG welded cap. I would have designed the cap installation differently. Too, getting rid of the butt cap cut down on the handle weight. My handle is very, very comfortable in all positions.
sbt2wc4.jpg


These are not mine. Some don't know it, but as you can see, Skookum's come in all sorts of flavors.
skookumwood2sq2.jpg
 
5). In my knife collection (impressive to some), I have several (not of my own choosing) shorter knives with choils. I clearly understand the choil on larger knives. I clearly don't understand the choke-up choil on shorter knives. ANY knife intended for "bushcraft" (which incorporates woodcarving) should not have a choil. Why "choke-up" to the edge when you can have the edge in your front yard already with a Scandinavian knife? I have used them both and certainly don't see the logic here for the choke-up feature. To each his own.

I agree with your entire post, Dannyboy Leather. Very well said. :thumbup:

I like the SS4 - it's a tough knife - but there are far better small knives than that, in my experience. The steel is great, but the knife itself suffers from the choil, the guard and the awkwardly shaped handle among other things.

Why "choke-up" to the edge when you can have the edge in your front yard already with a Scandinavian knife?

Can I answer that? It's because when you choke up on that choil, you can grip an ergonomically awful cold metal surface instead of gripping a nice warm ergonomic handle that's actually designed for that purpose. :D
 
Without getting into what "bushcraft" actually means, just let me say that the guys over on British Blades use the term correctly. We, on the other side of the pond, use the term very, very loosely. Sometimes, completely out of context.

I think you said it right there.:D:thumbup:
 
I left the fancy butt cap off of my Skookum. I didn't like the idea of the T-boned, TIG welded cap. I would have designed the cap installation differently. Too, getting rid of the butt cap cut down on the handle weight. My handle is very, very comfortable in all positions.
sbt2wc4.jpg


These are not mine. Some don't know it, but as you can see, Skookum's come in all sorts of flavors.
skookumwood2sq2.jpg

I know this had been beaten to death before but as soon as I look at those Skookums I imagine using one with cold wet hands and my hand slipping down onto the razor sharp edge !!!!:eek:
I like the idea of having a slight lip, for want of a better word, to help prevent this happening !!!
 
Can I answer that? It's because when you choke up on that choil, you can grip an ergonomically awful cold metal surface instead of gripping a nice warm ergonomic handle that's actually designed for that purpose. :D

Hahahahaha! I can't see how the choil could possibly help on a knife specifically built for "bushcraft". I do more carving on animals than I do wood, so I prefer a choil on my knives because I find it helpful at times to "choke-up" on the blade. Specifically, it is useful when operating in tight spaces like the body cavity of an animal or doing fine skinning work. So IMO, a choil, like steel, edge geometry, and knife design definitely depends on your uses for the knife.
 
I know this had been beaten to death before but as soon as I look at those Skookums I imagine using one with cold wet hands and my hand slipping down onto the razor sharp edge !!!!:eek:
I like the idea of having a slight lip, for want of a better word, to help prevent this happening !!!

Yeah Pit but remember the Skookum was based on Mors Kochanski's ideas:

A guard on a bush knife is in the way and detracts from many operations. It prevents the use of a simple, secure, and deep sheath. Some people prefer a guard for fear of slipping forward onto the knife edge, but unless the knife is used for stabbing, the hand should never slip in this way. In all my years of instructing I do not recall an injury due to the lack of a guard Bushcraft Page 111
 
This will do to illustrate my point for now. I accept the fact that most leverage can be gained up close to the hand, and in theory a choil is a disadvantage to that. I have written on these forums that I believe some choils seem daft, as if they were there exclusively to lengthen the blade without lengthening the actual cutting edge, as if it were a legal wiggle. So, quite disparaging. I would never hold that view more strongly than in the case of a very straight knife like a Kephart and a push cut at 90 degrees.

The reason why I don't hold that view universally is that not all knives are straight, and push cuts do not necessarily need to be at exactly 90 degrees to the blade. That's far too purist for me, and I for one certainly rock the blade a little if I hit something very contrary like a knot anyway. The illustration below shows the difference. The green line the purist, in which case a choil would be a serious obstacle. However, if the knife was handled in such a way that maximal force was naturally delivered along the red line a choil behind it would be no obstruction.

Moral of the story for me. Choils do not exist in a vacuum and must be evaluated in the context of the specific knife in question.

YMWV

simplified57567-1288.jpg
 
Hahahahaha! I can't see how the choil could possibly help on a knife specifically built for "bushcraft". I do more carving on animals than I do wood, so I prefer a choil on my knives because I find it helpful at times to "choke-up" on the blade. Specifically, it is useful when operating in tight spaces like the body cavity of an animal or doing fine skinning work. So IMO, a choil, like steel, edge geometry, and knife design definitely depends on your uses for the knife.


In that case I can see the use for one but my favorite thing for tight spaces inside an animal is the blade in the handle of my Puma Waidmesser.:thumbup:
 
Nice review! That SS4 looks a lot like my SR Bog Dog. Mine is in SR101, and one of my favorite blades of that size, both the ergonomics and cutting efficiency. The high flat grind lends itself well to many cutting tasks, I've found. I also like choking up on the choil, and the control that it gives me.
 
I'm no expert Vic but I think it may be due to Busse kin knives being more heavy/general duty type blades. Having a slightly thicker edge still enables them to cut well enough to please most people but also allows them to be abused without edge damage.
To me a Scandi ground edge is the ultimate for bushcraft but having such an acute edge also means the edge will deform more easily than the thicker Sabre edged Busse kin knives. I believe TOPS knives also takes this approach with their edges.
I think the ultimate compromise is a convexed edge but these are more time consuming to produce than sabre ground edges so most companies stick with what they can churn out the quickest !


I was thinking the same thing at one point, then they released the Boney Active Duty, by their own description "The BAD's are mission specific designed to be wicked slicers!"
and they still put an obtuse, coarsely ground edge of shit on them.
 
A guard does not prevent the use of a simple, deep, secure sheath. Pure fallicy.
Busse ASH1 in deep pouch style sheath
DSCN0042.jpg


Joe Southerland custom with deep pouch sheath
DSCN1036.jpg


rear view
DSCN1037.jpg


I can make them as deep as you want them!
 
Yeah Pit but remember the Skookum was based on Mors Kochanski's ideas:

Yeah but maybe they are not as accident prone as me ! I managed to split my own head open with a wrench when I worked at the coal mine, I nearly cut my finger the other week when making a fig 4 trap using a SAK and it closed up on me !:o
Survival schools I have seen give their students Mora Clippers which have a type of guard and even the great Ray Mears incorperated a slight lip into the handle of his definitive bushcraft knife !!!
I do know that the last thing I would like is to be on one of my hikes in the middle of nowhere and be stuck with a gash that I could not seal with bandaids and duct tape !!!!:D
 
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Can I answer that? It's because when you choke up on that choil, you can grip an ergonomically awful cold metal surface instead of gripping a nice warm ergonomic handle that's actually designed for that purpose.

Ok. Got it. :D

I know this had been beaten to death before but as soon as I look at those Skookums I imagine using one with cold wet hands and my hand slipping down onto the razor sharp edge !!!!
I like the idea of having a slight lip, for want of a better word, to help prevent this happening !!!

Pit, I can understand what you are saying. And, if I hadn't used a Skookum before I would think the same thing. However, the Skookum's have good palm swells, and are flared at the front of the scales (top view needed) to keep the hand sort of locked in. I had Rod make the scales larger on my own Skookum because of my XL-hand. My hand just doesn't slide around with this handle. Now, I have stub cut myself trying out an older Bark River Northstar when my hand slid down the tapered scales and on to the edge. I really dislike tapered scales because of that reason. My Skookum scales were also bead blasted and that helps with the tacky or grippy feel. No, the Skookum may not be for everybody and I would not suggest such. If one is a close Mors Kochanski follower, how does he live without a Skookum!?:D I like Mors very much, however I'm too old to follow anyone other than my wife when it comes to choices and preferences. ;)

In my experience, if I can't comfortably peel a potato with my smaller knife, as a result, I can't comfortably carve or do fine work with my belt knife. This leaves out choils and extended ricasso's. However, I do have a smaller knife, made by a respected ABS master smith, with an extended ricasso, that I enjoy using because I simply like the looks of the knife. It certainly does nothing better because of its large price tag and good looks. And, truly, that extended ricasso on that small knife only makes life more difficult if the knife is used in any other hand position other than 90-degrees flying flat and level.

Even though the Scandinavian knives and nicely shaped oval handles excel at woodwork, these knives were also effectively used (in longer blades) in tactical or defensive duties. I'm thinking of the Winter War (or "forgotten war") that the Russians started with Finland in the late 30's. Though the Finnish people were vastly outnumbered by the Russians, the effective war they waged against their invaders with mostly obsolete weapons (planes and guns) was literally stunning to the world of the period. What they were able to accomplish against their well-armed enemy with their razor sharp puukkos (and leuku), superb woods skills, and determination was nothing short of amazing. Nope, we don't normally think of the Scandinavian knife as an assault weapon. However, the knife did help a determined people win a war. :)
 
Now, I have stub cut myself trying out an older Bark River Northstar when my hand slid down the tapered scales and on to the edge.

I LOVE the Northstar, have 2 of them actually, but this very thing happened to me once with mine when it was really hot and I was covered in sweat. I barely cut myself because I caught it but I was like wiping off my hands every 15 seconds to prevent it.

I know they made a run of contoured North Stars but actually even just bead blasting the handle to give more traction probably would help.
 
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