Grinder,
No problem. I don't view it as a rant. More like the two of us just continually clarifying our intended views and perspectives. Those who have read my posts either understand I just try too hard to be clear or some probably think I am ranting.
When I say/imply I think Busse is better, I honestly feel and believe INFI and SR-101 are "BOTH" better steels. But, San Mai with laminated VG-10 (as used in Fallkniven - Not sure what is in the TM ????) is a VERY good steel from what I have seen. And it will SURELY serve my purposes.
From what I have seen, when Busse makes hidden tang knives, it seems Busse uses a larger/stronger radius from the ricasso to the tang that seems to be a bit better designed with the extra reinforcment of the larger radiuses being stronger than very cloe to square angle (very small radius) cuts found on most hidden tang knives including most Cold Steel knives, but also most that have a "Slip-On" guard - where the guard slips over the tang and butts square against the back of the ricasso.
If done improperly, a tangs weakest points are often at that angle between the tang and ricasso. Having a square corner makes it significantly weaker than the wider radius used by Busse (Swamp Rat and Scrap Yard).
The following picture shows the Busse Basic 9 radiused tang on the left vs. the Cold Steel Trailmaster's tang on the right:
For the record, most of the Scrap Yard and Swamp Rat Tangs are done almost EXACTLY the same as the Basic 9's tang.
This is a "typical" Swamp Rat and Scrap Yard tang in the standard Res-C handle:
This is the Scrap Yard's S5 tang:
In ALL of the above cases, notice the very LARGE radius on the lower side of the tang transition by the index finger. That is "ENGINEERING" Done RIGHT! When whacking something with the blade or forcing down on the handle with resistance against the blade in the opposite direction, that lower area is the weak spot. Visualize a stick under the same force. Put one end of the stick on a stump and force down on the other end of the stick in your hand. The "Break" will sort of start as a tear at the underside. If you put a square "Notch" in the middle of that stick, where is it going to break? The stress is at the bottom and at the "Notch". Busse has significantly reinforced the tang where it needs to be reinforced - DONE RIGHT! Busse has largely eliminated the deap cut "Notch" weakness and created a slightly convexed strong "Transition" rather than a "sharp" weak transition. That is SMART. I like SMART! :thumbup:
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The new Regulators tang doesn't have as significant radiusing, but rather the forward portion of the tang is substantially thicker period!
The following pictures is something I have had in my files from a few years ago now. I think it was posted here on Bladeforums somewhere. But, it shows a Cold Steel Recon Scout that failed/broke at the tang - likely due to that square corner being a point of weakness.
*** Look carefully and notice the beginning of the break was RIGHT AT the square corner at the under-side. :
But, while that is an example of a Cold Steel having failed. I personally don't try to make "TOO" much out of it. I am sold on what to me is simple fact based on physics that the Busse tangs are stronger and reinforced more appropriately for durability. All things being equal, Busse's tang is just a stronger design. But, all things are not equal. Busse's steel - even SR-101 and SR-77 are tougher than Cold Steel steel.
That said, I have seen MANY Cold Steel knives take SERIOUS abuse. So, I KNOW they can generally take the abuse VERY well. And I honestly do NOT really know what "Exactly" cause that Recon Scout to fail. I don't know how much force or abuse was exerted on the knife.
Furethermore, in all fairness, I have seen a fair number of Busse knives fail. Even the toughest steel can be defeated.
I still contend Busse knives are actually made BETTER. But, generally, I think most of the Cold Steel knives can easily handle what I need them to handle.
So, everyone has to make there own decisions.
Obviously, a Full tang is even stonger. But, for my purposes, I generally agree with you in that I ALSO do not use my knives to pry open tank hatches and chop cinder blocks. A properly designed hidden tang can be plenty strong for my needs. And generally, even though I feel a Busse is made better, I still feel a Cold Steel tang and the knife in general will mostly do what I need it to do and I really don't have much fear or concern about it's failure.... Unless I was hanging by it's handle over a cliff...... Then, I might really be wishing I had a Busse..... :thumbup: and a FULL tang..... and a bunch of other wishing as well. But, you get the idea. :thumbup:
So, like yourself, for "MY" uses, I am often/generally paying 2-3 times more for the few Busse blades I own for extra performance in "Toughness" that I will NEVER need.
I am not one who is that concerned that my LIFE will so much depend on my knife NOT failing.
I would have to honestly agree that I would and do find the TM to be VERY sufficient for my needs for a chopper it's size. Personally, I still don't care for the guard on the TM and I do prefer most of the Busse and kin handles over the TM's.
If being a more fair comparison, I still say the DFLE is probably the most fair comparison to the TM and I honestly personally prefer the DFLE. But, the DFLE does need some edge reprofiling to compete and you do need to buy/find a sheath option.
I believe that with some convexing and sharpening of the factory edge, the DFLE is a better knife and a better chopper than the TM. But, that is my opinion.
*** But, it is only fair to point out that the DFLE is actually cheaper than the San Mai TM - even if you buy a sheath for the DFLE. The only thing the DFLE needs is some edge profiling.
I DO agree about the edge configuration in particular. I personally wish Busse knives came with a convexed edge as a rule rather than as a limited exception. I am a HUGE fan of full convex edges - as are many around here. I convex all of my users. I don't feel they all need to have the "full" convex like the TM or my Bark Rivers. But, a Busse that is re-profiled with a smooth transition from edge to primary grind where there is no discernable "shoulder" between grinds can still have a significant amount of "Flat" on the primary area and still work VERY well with a "partial" convex edge with smooth transition to the flats.
Size is always debatable. It sounds like we generally agree on what the ideal size and weight for a chopper is - for "OUR" preference. But, still that is a relative and subjective arguement. For you and myself, a 17 - 20 ounce or so might be ideal for a large knife that is just big enough to be a good chopper and still light enough to not be annoying for carry. But, others will disagree. Such is life.
I also agree with importance of sharpness and find some other maker more consistant at providing sharp than Busse - sorry to say, but that is my honest experience. Yet, some claim some VERY sharp knives from Busse and I myself have had a few. But, honestly a smaller fraction than I would prefer. But, I am to a point where that doesn't matter so much since I change my Busse and kin knives to have a convex edge anyway.
In regards to the sheath, I have to agree as well. I understand in "some" ways why Jerry has chosen not to offer sheaths. You can't make everyone happy with every thing you offer and no doubt people will complain about sheaths. Some want this style others want that style. But, if you go with that mentallity, same applies to the knives themselves. Personally, I wish Busse and kin knives CAME with a sheath.
At least offer something "Functional" and try to provide a good quality and design in a sheath.
A Knife maker producing certain quanitites can provide sheath for a small fraction of what we have to pay to have a custom sheath made for every knife we buy from Busse and kin. This is just facts. Some like being able to get a custom sheath just the way they want from their chosen custom sheath maker and don't mind paying. But, honestly, I am with you. I don't really like paying an extra $75 - $125 for a custom sheath. I would rather just have a decent functional leather sheath provided that does the job.
That said, I am VERY impressed that Dan is offering a Nylon sheath for only $10 with purchases of the Regulator. THAT is VERY cool!!!!!!
Over-all price.... Well there appears to be a majority here willing to pay for INFI and Busse prices. Personally, I question my purchases all the time. I have honestly had to sell most of my INFI because even though I lusted for it enough to make many initial purchases, I just haven't been able to justify keeping knives costing so much. The return "USER" value just hasn't been there for "MY" generic woods, trail, camping needs and uses.
However, I do find the SR-101 options with Res-C from Scrap Yard or even micarta from Swamp Rat to be GREAT options at more reasonable prices........
*** HOWEVER, I STRONGLY prefer satin blades. That is another issue....... (* One of ongoing frustration for me and I will leave it at that.)
I can't speak for those who want "COMBAT" toughness. I don't abuse my knives like some. And Busse is geared towards "Combat" and many want the ULTRA level of toughness and NO concerns with reliability. That is what Busse offers. And that peace of mind seems to work for many. So, to each their own.
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choppers with the Regulator handle! 
