But... will I actually USE it?

tryppyr

tryppyr

Joined
Feb 5, 2010
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Yesterday I did something totally out of character... I ordered a block of "Jade Ghost" G10 from USAknifemaker's clearance page (as well as some fairly thick G10 liner).

G10.jpg


Okay, maybe ordering handle material is in character for me, but not synthetic stuff. But for some reason I like the look of this material... nice soothing color. And it's thick enough to be used for hidden tang knives.

No telling when or whether I'll actually use it, but at least I'm willing to give it a try.
 
Wait until you try to use it! That looks like some of the salvage stuff that was floating around here a couple yrs ago. Very difficult to work with; makes great sanding blocks.
 
I have a medium usps priority box full of this stuff. I just never used it. I also had a small thin slice of 1/4" and did use it on a knife and it came out pretty good.
 
It's very out of character for you to order synthetics, Greg. What is this world coming to... ;)

I also have a few blocks of this stuff. Not sure what I'll use it for. Maybe as an alternative handle for the take-down I'm busy building.
 
I have some sheets of it I got from James Todd a few years back. They're big enough for tabletops which is exactly the plan for them :)

-d
 
I've done a fair number of knives with it in 1/8" scales, I didn't notice it being significantly tougher to work than any other G10 I've worked with, maybe just slightly slower to drill and grind. Something to keep in mind, in thinner cross sections it's translucent, even in a block, with a tang inside it if there's light coming at it from behind you might be able to see the outline of the tang and anything else inside. I've never messed with it thicker than 1/4" scales so I'm just not sure.

Personally, I think it looks best thin with a white or silver backer/liner to brighten it up. If you put a color behind it you can get some odd effects. It's by far the most popular handle material I've used in terms of customer requests. A bunch of my little nubilus pattern and a few of the Lycaons. Even one kitchen knife.
 
I,ve used it. Very tought to cut into scales, but not too bad to work. It has a retro look.
 
I've handled full tang knives with it several times. I didn't notice a difference in difficulty to work, although I didn't have to rip any of significant thickness. That's always hard on saw blades.

Remy is right on with what he says. I had a dark spot on a tang that showed through the scale one time. Liners do improve it, I liked a bright green liner with it (probably weird of me.)
 
wow, that'd be quite green. hehe
I usually just use white behind them, with the thinner scales I was usually using it winds up a kind of ghostly green. I like the stuff, but wouldn't use as much of it if it wasn't by request. I can see the appeal though.
 
I'm not too worried about the tang showing through. If it does, and I see it as a problem, that will only reinforce my attitude about using wood over synthetics. ;)

Anyway, it's just an experiement, and a relatively cheap one.
 
Well, I'm not sure why it would effect your attitude regarding synthetics, you bought a translucent material, can't blame it for being translucent.

Overall though, I think it suits you. Of the G10/Micarta world, this is the one I can most see you using. Probably with a sculpted design to really take advantage of the translucence. I can see something with fluting, or a spiral design carved into it, where the differing thickness and how the light is channeled through it creates an interesting effect. It would create slight shadows and highlights. In full sun I doubt you notice it, but sitting on a desk near a window, where it's got a lot of light coming at it from the opposite side you view from... could be neat.
 
Hi Greg, good choice on the jade G-11 it tools real easy, and is very translucent, i always use a liner, and it does make great sanding blocks, and all my push rods are made from it too. IF you use a corby reamer, you can get a pop to happen by not letting your reamer breath, its only happened to me when i was using the reamer.
Heres a pic of a full tang with yellow and black liners
knives507.jpg

Greg
 
I won a chunk of similar G10 a long time ago, and I cut some up to use for this little wharncliffe which I ground out even longer ago than that. It ended up being a KITH gift a few years back.

The G10 was a major PITA to cut on the bandsaw; however, it worked and finished on the grinder and with sanding very similar to other composites I've used. Actually finished up very nicely. I used white liners, and without thinking about the transparency of the G10, I did my usual drilling of holes in the liner to allow the acraglas to hold through the liners to the scales. It actually made for a kind of neat looking "ghost leopard spot" effect. It was off the beaten path for me as well when it comes to color, but I really liked how the handle material turned out on the finished knife.

820fd4c7.jpg


1ae5c064.jpg


bedb47f8.jpg


BTW, that is not a gap on the front and rear of the display side scale. It's actually a sharpie mark on the liner which also unfortunately shows through very well. I didn't end up re-handling the knife as I originally intended due to time constraints on the KITH.

--nathan
 
I cut off a handle sized block from the slab I received. I have to say the material isn't really any more difficult to cut than walrus ivory. I used the HF portaband, set to the speed used to cut steel. Progress was slow but predictable. When all was said and done, the cut edge of the piece resembled the cut edge of ivory in many ways, with small dark spots here and there suggesting perhaps a bit too much pressure being applied at various times... nothing that won't be sanded away during shaping.
 
I've used it on the handle of a mule, and it's a dog to work with, but looks really nice polished. Also, if you polish it, it has an interesting grain to it which is very subtle. Interesting material.
 
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