Butchers knife for a friend - WIP

Discussion in 'Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers' started by weo, Dec 18, 2019.

  1. 3fifty7

    3fifty7 Gold Member Gold Member

    Dec 24, 2016
    Inside every chefs knife lies a paring knife waiting to be brought to light.
    I commend you and your undertaking and thoroughly enjoy real WIP posts. I look forward to continue to follow this.
     
    Travis_Wright likes this.
  2. weo

    weo KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Sep 21, 2014
    Good morning, all. It's been longer than I thought, but I'm finally able to get back to this project. I'm trying a different pattern, going for my river under cloudy skies motif:
    1.jpg
    And here we are with a bit extra material to cut off. Hoping to finish forging this afternoon.
    20200610_172127.jpg
     
    Ken H> likes this.
  3. Randydb

    Randydb Basic Member Basic Member

    960
    Sep 27, 2014
    Very cool. I am looking forward to this new go at it!
    BTW...your quote by Kevin Thunderhorse is great.
     
  4. weo

    weo KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Sep 21, 2014
    Didn't get much done today, but here's where we are: de-scaled and rough profile done.
    20200615_174053.jpg
    The spine is just over 5mm at the heel. Not sure how much this should taper to the point. Any suggestions? Remember, this is to be used for breaking down turkeys, so there has to be some meat at the tip.
     
  5. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    I would not taper it since there is a core along the spine and you certainly would not want to grind into it.
     
    Ken H> likes this.
  6. weo

    weo KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Sep 21, 2014
    I'm not sure I'm following why. I built it this way so that the pattern will look like cloudy skies over a river. I was thinking tapering it at least to around 3mm (0.125") at the tip.
    Wouldn't a 5mm (0.210") spine the whole way make for an extra heavy knife? Or is that thickness needed for popping joints open?
     
  7. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    I agree that the knife is very thick. What I was referring to is the upper part is three layers with the outer layers much thinner than the core. If you taper the blade you may grind right through the outer layers and expose the darker core. This would run your "cloudy skies over the river" thing.

    Honestly, I don't get your visual theme, but that doesn't matter. I look forward to seeing how it comes out.
     
  8. weo

    weo KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Sep 21, 2014
    Perhaps I should have noted that the sketch of the billet was not to scale, but I am a little worried that I didn't make the outer 15N20 layers thick enough. The original stack was two 0.070" thick pieces of 15N20 on the sides sandwiching 3 pieces of .125" 1080 in the center. 2.jpg
     
  9. weo

    weo KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Sep 21, 2014
    Well, I finally got an answer from the end user, sort of... "I want it thick, so I'll leave it up to you to decide where to start tapering."
    Because this is so far outside the box for me (my brain is used to thinking, thinner, thinner...), I would appreciate any advice.
    Should I keep the whole spine at 5mm or taper it to ~3mm at the tip?
    How thick should I keep the edge before quenching and sharpening?
    Also, should I keep a full tang to help with the balance and not worry about the overall weight?
    Thanks
     
  10. weo

    weo KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Sep 21, 2014
    Of course it matters. Here's where I am now, ready for HT and after a quick dunk in the etch to see what the pattern might look like.
    20200704_104516.jpg
     
  11. Ken H>

    Ken H>

    Dec 31, 2011
    Now I'm seeing what you mean with your pattern. I like it - especially like the bottom where the layers are laid on edge for forging. That brings out the layers nicely. Good job.
     
  12. Cushing H.

    Cushing H. Gold Member Gold Member

    Jun 3, 2019
    Clouds over river. I get it. Cool
     
  13. weo

    weo KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Sep 21, 2014
    Here it is after final grinding and etched before adding the handle. Waiting for color choices from the end user.
    20200710_124203.jpg
    The pattern isn't quite what I was hoping for, not really cloudy but I think I know what to do differently next time, so I'm learning and that's a good thing, right?:rolleyes: I used 2 pieces of 1080 in the spine portion, and next time will only use one piece.
     
  14. weo

    weo KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Sep 21, 2014
    Hello all. Sorry this ended up not being a real WIP, but here's what the final product (before final sharpening) turned out like:
    4.jpg
    Any/all comments are welcome.
    Stay safe.
     
    Hengelo_77, Scaniaman, DanF and 2 others like this.
  15. Cushing H.

    Cushing H. Gold Member Gold Member

    Jun 3, 2019
    Nice! What is the bolster materiai? What thickness for the spacer (I’m still struggling settling on a thickness for that...)
     
  16. weo

    weo KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Sep 21, 2014
    Good morning, Cush, thanks. The bolster is some ebony that I got from a friend who's luthier brother died a number of years ago. It was originally a 2" square block by 6" long, I'm now down to only about 2" left.
    The spacer is 3/32", I think, but it might have been 1/8" before sanding it flat before glue up. It's just a 1" wide brass strip that I got at a hardware or hobby store a few years ago. Should be pretty easy to find.
     
  17. Cushing H.

    Cushing H. Gold Member Gold Member

    Jun 3, 2019
    Thanks william. I asked about the spacer material because I started out with thinner material, and it was a real pain to try to get a reasonable hole drilled into it....
     
  18. weo

    weo KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Sep 21, 2014
    When you drill through thin material, do you use a backer block of wood or something similar?
     
  19. Cushing H.

    Cushing H. Gold Member Gold Member

    Jun 3, 2019
    yes. it wants to get about 3/4 of the way through drilling the hole, then tries to wrap up the material around the bit. smaller holes no problem .... the bigger holes like 3/8" are what cause problems.
     
  20. CallumRD1

    CallumRD1

    86
    Jan 10, 2020

    Clamp the thin material between two pieces of scrap wood when drilling the hole. Or use a step drill. Or glue your material down to some scrap with CA glue, drill the hole, then release it with acetone. Twist drills, especially large ones, are terrible at drilling thin materials so you have to help them out by supporting the workpiece properly. Just putting it on top of a piece of scrap isn’t enough to get a clean hole.
     

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