Button locks?

C

clockworkfish

Joined
Dec 1, 2010
Messages
161
Hey, I was just taking a look at different locking mechanisms and the button lock stood out to me. It seems fairly simple to make and allows for a bit of a lighter knife as you don't need a liner with it (maybe a small amount to support the button). So why don't more makers make them? Are there any parts of it that are more difficult to do than a standard liner lock?

Bonus points if anyone knows of any good button lock tutorials!

Thanks for your help as always!
 
I never considered a button lock knife lighter. It takes some rigidity for them to work. It is good for heavier duty blades. There are liners on a button lock.

I heavily modify knifekits DDR3-BL. They have great potential for customization, and will convert to auto.
 
My assumption with both the liner and the weight issue come from this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0gvaJkQYEo (since I do not actually own one it is my only source of info) where the Hogue extreme ex-01 is on display, and upon inspecting the internals there is no liner present. Totally agree though that it needs some rigidity and would not work with any material with a lot of give. However If any fiberglass based material is used wouldn't the weight be lower than with any metal based scale?

Based off everyone response I will definitely be getting a kit button lock in the near future and experimenting.

Bladsmth when you have worked with them what are some of the major difficulties you have faced? How do they compare to working with a linerlock?

Lastly thank you everyone for your responses! It's really helpful!
 
William Henry knives are what actually inspired this search as it seems like such a simple lock yet it doesn't seem to be a market staple, instead we see a lot more linerlocks and framelocks which I thought was interesting. I don't suppose you have any shots of the internals, do you?
 
I have two Masters of Defense button locks...Mk I and a Mk II. Both rock solid pieces. If you tell me what pics you would like I will take my Mk II apart and photograph it for you.
 
Awesome! I am mostly curious about the tang of the knife, the inside of each side of the liners (around the area of the button) as well as the angle of the cutout/taper that's made for the button on the tang. Some profiles of the button would be great as well!

Thank you guys a ton for your help!
 
Here are some pictures of a disassembled William Henry C/F B-10. There is a metal lined blind hole in the right handle. It holds the button return spring. The left hand handle has a metal lined through hole to hold the busniness end of the button.
A cup on one end of the button covers the coil spring. A lip on the other end of the button keeps it from popping out of the knife. The shaft of the button also serves as one of the blade stops. In the larger knives, they use two stop pins because there is more room.
The two holes between the spring holder and the pivot pin are where the pocket clips attaches. These holes are lined with #0X80TPI stainless steel Helicoils.
The blade notch in the second picture is engaged by the closed side edge of the spring cup. Because the taper is continuous, the lock up is very tight. Picture #3 shhows the taper on the button cup.
Picture #4 shows the extra sop pin in the larger knife.View attachment 421956View attachment 421958View attachment 421958View attachment 421963View attachment 421964
 
I find the simple design intriguing. Is there a patent or any reason they are not more commonly made by custom makers?

Great thread guys...
 
I just did a little bit of testing on a button lock and I was thoroughly impressed to say the least. As for why its not used more? Probably just a feel thing. I still prefer the feel of unlocking a frame or liner lock to the feel of the button or even axis lock. Comparable to maybe driving an old classic with no AC as opposed to a new hybrid that will freeze your butt off.

Check out the testing / "review here.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1138336-Passaround/page4?highlight=koenig
 
Awesome photos tiguy! I am amazed at how simple that looks. On the tang is the receiving hole for the lock tapered? As in do you think they used like a V bit or something similar to establish the angle?
 
From what I can tell, the only difference is that an auto locks the blade in when its in its folded state, and by pressing the button the lock disengages allowing a spring to move the blade out.

Other fun facts http://www.google.com/patents/US5293690 This seems to be a patent on a button lock, not sure if it qualifies as the same one that other makers use. However, the patent runs out on the 15th of this month, which means its free to use and there shouldn't be any weird legal issues (not 100% sure on the weird legal issues but its pretty likely that nothing bad will happen)
 
Maddogg774 said:
Are the button locks on auto' s the same as on manual's?
Click to expand...

Not exactly the same


In an auto, you press the button to open

In a non auto, you just open the blade normally, no button pressing

There has to be a difference in the blade cutouts in the non auto.
 
That's what I was wondering, being lazy, wanting an answer without really researching it. ;-)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top