Buying The Best

Perhaps I can justify my short list;

I have been a professional automobile technician my whole adult life. I am a Nissan master technician at a Nissan dealer. I worked for a Mercedes Benz dealer as my first job and went through their apprenticeship there. That was in 1974 through 1983. Those cars were the stuff of excellence. I kept up with the Mercedes line as I worked on many traded in at the Nissan dealer. So when I needed to acquire a new automobile, due to having to prematurely hand one down to a daughter, I knew what I wanted. At the time of purchase my selection was already 9 years old. I searched for 6 months to get a 1997 E320 (last year of the straight 6), first year for the new 5 speed electro-auto trans, black inside and out with 58,000 miles. This car is LNIB. I bought it from the original owner (retired bank president) for the poultry sum of $10,000. The guy really wanted to sell it and had it priced way, way below book. I promptly replaced the factory original tires the day I bought it. All I have had to do to it is maintenance, as I never put enough strain on it to stress it to the breaking point. A well researched purchase.

The watch is due to sentimentality.

The knife is due to the many post here and there that adore the Sebenza.

The Walther PPK has an unblemished history of decades of service in police work in Europe. The pistol has a fixed barrel that results in stunning accuracy and flawless action. One can truly bet their life on it with confidence.

If I were to buy a brand new car it wouldn't be the current MB E320 as it would be cost prohibitive, but I would consider a VW diesel or Nissan's new Leaf. I'm hoping I can keep the 97 going for quite some time to come as it has just passed 83,000 miles and hope to see 250,000. I only use Mobil 1 oil and BG products.

With aid of the internet and google, research has become a breeze, especially the many forums on just about everything.
 
Orork, I concur with your insight.

I learned a long time ago - "buy good, buy once. Buy cheap, buy twice!"

I too research the who-who out of stuff, try before I buy, and have some trusted sources whom I seek counsel before I buy.

But I've also learned a couple other things besides buying the 'best' gear and that is "software is much more important than hardware".

So I make a commitment to myself that before or immediately after the purchase I seek out professional training. And I differ from you in that I only drive a 4-Wheel drive vehicle that is equipped to survive a basic run-of-the-mill, rudimentary, catastrophic event. I want something that works during the good times as much as the bad times/situations. Also I don't want equipment that draws any attention on me or my status in life. I don't want anything that says "hey, look at me! I'm successful so steal my stuff". All my gear while being the best doesn't attract attention nor does it necessarily look like the best. I just blends in and looks like "Joe or Jane Average" - You know "oh hum." While others are worried about losing their gear to theft I'm not drawing that amount of attention.

Anyway, after buying my last vehicle I attend a week long course at Bondurant Driving School to learn Defensive Driving. Then I took a weekend course on how to operate an off-road vehicle safely and competently from a professional off-road competitor.

As far as clothing and watches...I have the best but they do not attract attention to myself. While I'd love to have a Rolex it is just says to the world "hey, look at me! I'm successful and I know it! Steal from me and my family." No thanks. I don't need that sort of attention. I'll just buy something that is very-very good but looks, well, average.

Same with a defensive firearm. After I bought a new defense handgun I attended a five day intermediate level defensive handgun course at Thunder Ranch. It is one thing to own the "gear" it is another to be able to use it under stress and to its full potential.

To me, software or the development of software far-far outweighs having good gear/stuff. I want to be able to win or succeed without having to count on "the best'. I still buy the best but I don't stack the deck against me either. I'm not looking for an excuse to fail (oh, I could have done this successfully if I had my best car, gun, watch etc) but rather looking for a reason to win/survive/prevail.

I also train and practice with pieces of junk too. Because the next time an emergency might happen I may not have my fully customized, "have it my way" top of the line piece of gear. I may have to fight back or survive with whatever my cold, trembling hands may have to pick up from the ground. I've seen first hand when disaster strikes and we often don't get things our way - and we often don't get to use our own "best" gear to survive. So again, I don't stack the desk against me but "for" me...software is more important than 'the best' hardware!

So before I buy something, I research the best resource to provide me with the learning/training to use this piece of gear to its fullest and to my fullest potential.
 
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I have the same "problem", some people think I'm crazy for spending the money I do on the things I do and
that's fair enough. I personally feel you should always buy the best you can afford regardless of what it is. :):thumbup:
 
My wife says I'd actually spend 2 weeks researching tooth paste before making a purchase decision... and she's probably right. Like many of you, I hate buying "cheap" because it rarely ends up being such. I've also learned that "the best" isn't very often synonymous with "the most expensive".
 
Interesting post. Guy i use to work with would always buy the best. He opened the door for me into custom knives, tricked out 1911's and such.
 
The Tax Man and the Child Support Man see to it that I'll never own the best---I still manage to have some decent stuff that's far from being the worst.
 
+1 I'd rather have a few nice things that I can count on and will last instead of a bunch of disposable junk.
 
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My sainted father used to say, "The joy of low price is quickly forgotten amidst the disappointment of low quality."

Another friend of mine says, "Buy quality and you'll only cry once."

These are excellent quotes.

You don't have to spend an arm and a leg on the best product. You should spend the money on the quality product. Are the best and the highest quality often the same? Yes.

I wear a Lum-Tec every day. I have some sort of CRK on me, just about every day. I went through three wallets before I got my Saddleback and I'm pretty sure I'll have that till I die.
 
Hi,

Buying the "best" is often a loaded proposition. And cost is seldom the indicator of quality.

I buy buy items based on intended use and how much it might get used.

For example, I had to replace the cellar door on my house. I needed to drill 6 holes of 3/8" diameter in concrete to install it. I didn't own a hammer drill nor did anyone I knew. Luckily for me, one of those traveling tool sale semi's was in the neighboring town. I bought a 1/2" hammer drill for $8US. A cheap piece of junk that drilled the 6 holes with no problems. I couldn't rent a hammer for that money. Let alone justify say, a couple hundred dollars for a nice Bosch Hammer drill.

On the other hand, I have a 4"x6" stepped angle plate that is worth over $1000, if you could even buy one with the kind of accuracy this one has. My neighbor has a titanium alloy hammer he paid almost $200US for. But he's a professional carpenter. Me, I get by with a $10 hammer. But I have dial indicators that cost over a $100 a pop.

Sometimes you need the best you can get, and sometimes it's just a plain waste of money. It all just depends.

dalee
 
Hi,
... cost is seldom the indicator of quality.


Yes, cost is seldom THE single indicator of quality. There are many products of world-class quality which are of moderate cost. This is where doing a little research comes into play.
 
"The best" means different things to different people. I value reliability and practicality. And most importantly "the best" needs to have a realistic price-tag.
 
Hi,

Buying the "best" is often a loaded proposition. And cost is seldom the indicator of quality.

I buy buy items based on intended use and how much it might get used.

For example, I had to replace the cellar door on my house. I needed to drill 6 holes of 3/8" diameter in concrete to install it. I didn't own a hammer drill nor did anyone I knew. Luckily for me, one of those traveling tool sale semi's was in the neighboring town. I bought a 1/2" hammer drill for $8US. A cheap piece of junk that drilled the 6 holes with no problems. I couldn't rent a hammer for that money. Let alone justify say, a couple hundred dollars for a nice Bosch Hammer drill.

On the other hand, I have a 4"x6" stepped angle plate that is worth over $1000, if you could even buy one with the kind of accuracy this one has. My neighbor has a titanium alloy hammer he paid almost $200US for. But he's a professional carpenter. Me, I get by with a $10 hammer. But I have dial indicators that cost over a $100 a pop.

Sometimes you need the best you can get, and sometimes it's just a plain waste of money. It all just depends.

dalee
Yes, I totally agree.
 
I feel the very same. I personally choose not to settle for something i will be unhappy with, but rather save until i can get what i really want.

I drive a Benz, I carry a Sebenza, and currently wear a Gshock which will hold me over until i can pick up an Omega Planet Ocean.
 
My sainted father used to say, "The joy of low price is quickly forgotten amidst the disappointment of low quality."

Another friend of mine says, "Buy quality and you'll only cry once."

There is a lot of wisdom in those words. I try to buy quality, but I have to prioritize because of the demands of my young family. I'm slowly, but steadily building up my kit.

I think that many people are unable to get quality things because they just want a lot of stuff (i.e., quantity over quality). Since most people do not have an unlimited budget, they decide to spend their dollars on a bunch of mediocre items instead of getting a few nice things. That's certainly the case with most of my friends. As for me, I don't need or want much, but the stuff I do get I want to be nice.

People can still recognize quality when they see it. Before I got married my wife wanted to register for one of those Henckels knife sets, the type with the forged bolsters that go down all the way to the edge. I pointed out that most people only use 3-4 knives on a regular basis and that it is a waste of money to buy the entire set. Better to choose the knives you want and will actually use. I explained that the bolster design of the Henckels makes it difficult to get a truly sharp edge near the handle, which I also pointed out is the part of the blade that she uses to cut with the most. My wife agreed with me and we chose three Kershaw Shun knives instead. She loves those knives and every person who has used them has commented on their sharpness and how well they cut.

There really is something to be said about having a well-made tool that will last a lifetime. I don't like to get too attached to material objects, but two of my most treasured possessions are my Springfield Custom Carry 1911 and my Kerry Hampton KHnutbuster. Both quality pieces that will outlast me and be passed on to my kin.
 
The Walther PPK has an unblemished history of decades of service in police work in Europe. The pistol has a fixed barrel that results in stunning accuracy and flawless action. One can truly bet their life on it with confidence.

I think that James Beaton may disagree with you about the Walther PPK!
 
I think that James Beaton may disagree with you about the Walther PPK!
Mine is a stainless Interarms manufactured PPK in .380. I have a couple hundred rounds through it w/o issue.

I did find that James Beaton admitted the slide was affected from fully cycling to the rear, hence the jam.



There is much controversy surrounding the facts, and Beaton himself claimed that the PPK jammed because the slide was blocked from cycling full during the mayhem. No other UK forces dropped the PPK, in fact it is still in use with the SAS and SBS for deep cover operations, and has seen much in the way of active service without any major problems.

The problematic ones seem mostly to have been made by S&W.
 
Great Thread,

I'm currently wearing Seikos, Bulovas, and Citizens due to cost of Rolex, but I've noticed 2 things on the watch front: 1)almost every watch I own looks similar to the Rolex Sub I really want. and 2)if I had just bought a Sub to begin with it would have been cheaper than the watch collection I currently have.

PPKs are fine but I'm a J-frame kinda guy, less to go wrong.

I'll get an MB someday. And I personally though I have some, would not carry a 400 dollar knife when you can get a Delica or mini-grip for their price and the two of them be as good as they are.
 
I like having/using "the best" when it comes to a watch or knife. When it comes to cars, clothes, guns... these are only things that are going to get ugly or possibly destroyed in their lifetimes.
 
I like having/using "the best" when it comes to a watch or knife. When it comes to cars, clothes, guns... these are only things that are going to get ugly or possibly destroyed in their lifetimes.

You must be pretty hard on your guns. I think I'm much more likely to wear out one of my knives than I am one of my guns.
 
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