Can I fix my drillpress?

Patrice Lemée

Patrice Lemée

Joined
Aug 13, 2002
Messages
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I have an old Rockwell 15 drillpress. I put a long reamer in there and realized that it is not true. There is a wobble, big enough to be visible by eye. :(

Can I fix this? Where is the problem usually located, at the chuck or the bearings?

Thanks

Patrice
 
Usually bad bearings unless you have bent the spindle.
Stan
 
Wobble on the tip of the reamer
Cut the reamer short (from the shank),

Wobble on the chuck take the chuck and clean the taper shank
Look for wear out at the chuck teeth,

Quick fix, set you indicator on the reamer
And gentle tap on the chuck whit a piece of copper or brass
While turning the chuck by hand,

I mean before star repairing or changing bearings
 
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Don't get your shorts in a twist just yet. Assuming you're holding it with your drill chuck - there is probably nothing really wrong. Most drill chucks aren't going to hold a reamer with much precision. The length of the reamer will just exacerbate the visible runout - but I disagree with cutting it short. The reason it is long is so it can flex to follow your hole and to absorb runout. Cut it in half and it will have half the runout, but it will be many times more stiff and cut oversize. Try chucking it up a few times, tightening it from different holes in the chuck and follow Gusval's suggestion about tapping the high spots, especially before it is completely tight. This is a good application for your indicator. You will want less than .005" TIR before you cut with it. I aim for under .001"

BTW, reamers like low RPM, moderately high feed in, and the same feed rate back out. Good application for oil too.
 
Another thing, check to make sure it is chucked straight. I have noticed with mine it is easy, especially with a smaller shaft to accidently chuck it crooked. I have learned to watch the chuck as I tighten it and then spin it once with my hand. If I notice a wobble then it's chucked up crooked!!!! :)
 
Thanks guys, I will try those.
Anyone know how to remove the drill chuck? No idea what to hit. :eek:
Not that I want to. I'll only do that if things you suggested don't work.

Patrice
 
I've looked Frank but can't see what you are talking about.

I did put a dial indicator on it and with a copper hammer was able to get the runout to around 1-2 thou about 6" down from the chuck jaws. Guess that will have to do.

The only thing I am worried about is the problem returning if it was that easy to correct. Maybe the taper is not seated well. :confused:

Patrice
 
I picked up a used 1992 model drill press and it had a couple thou wobble 4 thou total and I was able to straighten it using the same method - R&R the chuck, clean mating surfaces. when reinstalling the chuck, use a light pressure and check, if out, give a nudge with a piece of hard wood and check again. use a piece of 2x4 and press the chuck into it a little firmer and check again. Adjust if necessary, when straight press it into the softwood as firm as you like. There's a guy with videos on Smartflix that converted a drill press into a mini mill and jb welded his chuck into the receiver, straightened it and let it set.
 
Yes, I agree with Nathan as well.

Drilling is basically a "roughing" process....consequently, drill chucks are not as precise as other collet tooling systems. They don't hold things very true..and they don't mount on the spindle very true...when compared to other systems. None the less, you can still have great success with reamers in your drill press. Use them long so they flex a bit...I think this is normal and important. I'm guessing that you are using knife maker sizes such as 1/4" and less in diameter. These smaller reamers are really flexible.

Reaming is a delicate process and I personally use very slow spindle speeds when the work is important. 100 rpm for example. Let the work piece float around with the wobbling reamer...and keep it flooded with coolant/lube to wash out the chips.

Play around with some scrap material and refine your process with the tools that you have. My guess is that it will be fine. If you don't get the results that you need....then look for options.

-Rob
 
The low rpm is what made me try the drill in the first place. The mill is just a pain in the ass to switch from very high speed to very low speed. But as you say it does hold the tool very rigidly.
I will make some tests as you suggested and see how it goes.
Of course a variable speed motor on the lathe would solve all that. So many projects so little dough. :(

Thanks again guys.

Patrice
 
the chuck is likly held in by a long bolt under the "hood" directly in the center of the arbor. (similar to changing R8 collets in a bridgeport) otherwise it could be on a taper lock (but I doubt it is) and after opening it up a simple wedge is all the is needed to remove the taper lock.

Jason
 
If you extend the spindle down all the way and you see a slot milled into the spindle, it is a taper shank. You can remove it with a drill drift, which you can make from a piece of steel yourself ( radius on top and approx. 10 degree angle on the other side ). The ones you buy are hardened, but for a single use you can probably get away with a soft one. Insert the drift in the slot and wack it with a hammer, the chuck should pop out. The chuck is mounted to the taper shank with a stub taper also, but it may not be necesary to remove it. Clean your tapers and put back in the spindle (slide chuck in and then push down on the table with the spindle putting a clean and flat piece of steel between chuck and table. Put a dowel pin or other straight piece of steel in the chuck and indicate it true using brass to tap the chuck body. Hopefully will solve your problems.
 
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