You can tap the bolster in front of the pivot pin on the side needed to move the point when closed. But it's best to have a dead straight, flat & parallel blade, frame & spring to start.
I had an issue with 1/16" thickness springs bowing in heat treat, then i rebuilt my kiln so i hang the parts vertically and in the center of the oven. It virtually eliminated the warping and solved a lot of my centering issues. The main things now are holes drilled straight, blade ground evenly, and when fitting and gluing scales i have to make sure the fit isnt so tight that the scale and liner have a small gap near the ends. I clamp the scales and liners to a piece of hardwood with a good planed surface (covered with saran wrap) and inspect the bolster-liner-scale joint to ensure it is gap free. If there is a gap or i dont clamp to a flat surface while glue is drying it will cause centering issues.