Can your EDC do this?

[buckg]

Nice thread. Thanks. Food for thought.

 

[untamed]

I second the above post. Yep, sure there's a right tool for everything, but it sure is sweet knowing your knife can "push it".

(Note to self: Must win Lotto for Strider!!!!!!!!)

 

[talonturbo]

For those of you who asked, it pretty much was near the tip that was being subjected to prying duties. And I really don't think any type of prybar would have gotten into the thin opening created by the inital cuts into the plastic.

I agree that even zytel handles can handle anything you can throw at them. And while I haven't broken the pivot on a Spydie before, they have all developped decent play in the pivot/lock (lock created vertical play, pivot loosened and created horizontal play) just by using them for cutting up a few hours worth of shop rags. That task has created lots of play in a Native 1, a Manix, and an Endura.

And Striders aren't all bricks. Some are, but a SNG is barely more noticeable than a Para. I'm not all pro-Strider, as I started this thread by saying that I miss my Spydies' slicing abilities. They can't be beat. But short of carrying multiple knives, I need a knife for EDC can do more than cut, even at the slight cost of cutting. I was just wondering who else has these needs.

 

[talonturbo]

And my only issue with the prybabies (although I haven't used one) is the lack of length. Prying requires leverage. I just doon't see how much force you can get behind a prying motion with something so short. Please feel free to tell me otherwise.

 

[Buzzbait]

You managed to create play in your Manix by cutting shop rags? Very odd. I could see a plastic handled knife developing play at the pivot over time, but am surprised that a steel lined, G-10 scaled folder would suffer the same effect from the same duties.

Any idea how far you inserted the blade when you were doing your prying, in inches? I'd be interested in measuring my SNG, to see what the spine thickness is at that depth.

Very interesting stuff.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

And while I haven't broken the pivot on a Spydie before, they have all developped decent play in the pivot/lock (lock created vertical play, pivot loosened and created horizontal play) just by using them for cutting up a few hours worth of shop rags.

Have you discussed this with Spyderco, it doesn't sound like expected performance based on the ones I have used.

-Cliff

 

[Buzzbait]

Leverage is not extraordinary on a small Prybaby, unless you insert some sort of bar into the hole in the handle. I've run a thin screwdriver through the hole before, and got decent leverage.

The Prybaby is wonderfully durable though. I've beaten on the end with a large hammer before, trying to pull heads of nails out of subflooring, to the point where I could grab the heads with a pair of vice grips. The Prybaby had its scratches and an almost undetectable chip on the underside, but otherwse survived unscathed. Tough little tool.

 

[SpyderJon]

I'm glad you like the Strider. I carry one, and except for one accident with it I've been TOTALLY happy with it. Used it yesterday to cut the gas cap off our car so I could put a locking one on, as a matter of fact, and it was a pleasure to use.

I carry a prybaby with the spanner wrench built into the end. I use it mostly for deanimating beer. Other than that, there are all kinds of interesting prying things you can do with it. Yeah, its short, but in an emergency/small space/pinch its a LOT better than a busted knife tip or nothing at all. Nobody ever said the prybaby was some kind of heavy duty lifting device, but it weighs NOTHING, so why not?

I also carry a Buck/Mayo 172 for really delicate slicing jobs, but I sure wouldn't pry with it.

Maybe a multi-tool would have been better, but you didn't have one. You used the tools you had, got the job done, and shared your satisfaction with the tool you had to work with. You also raised a legitimate question as to whether or not the Manix or Para could've done the job (for the record I wouldn't have tried it with the Spydies and I LOVE Spyderco).

 

[ginshun]

I usually carry an SnG, a prybaby and a Spydie Centofante III.

All cutting / prying needs are covered.

 

[Hair]

I carry different things depending on my mood. I try to give all of my knives some use. But my main EDC lineup is:

Strider SMF
Leatherman Charge Ti
Victorinox Super Tinker

The SMF isn't a great slicer, but it will cut what needs to be cut. It just takes a little extra work. I like it because I never have to worry about it or baby it. My Super Tinker can slice when I need a pure slicer, and my Charge can do non-knife things (as can the Super Tinker).

Keep in mind that the SMF and SNG come with a obtuse final bevel in the interest of durability. But you can reprofile the edge and have much improved slicing ability.

I carry my Military a lot too. And my Manix. I really mix it up a lot and try to use them all, but the SMF/Charge/Tinker is my go to lineup, and it is a lineup that makes a lot of sense for me.

 

[Thomas Linton]

For those of you who asked, it pretty much was near the tip that was being subjected to prying duties. And I really don't think any type of prybar would have gotten into the thin opening created by the inital cuts into the plastic.
. . .

Point taken

The edge of my 6" mini prybar mic's out at about .33 mm. Only you know if that was fine enough, but it could be sharpened to a knife edge if you knew in advance that such an edge would be required.

 

[talonturbo]

You managed to create play in your Manix by cutting shop rags?

Any idea how far you inserted the blade when you were doing your prying, in inches?
Very interesting stuff.

Cutting as much twisted up cloth as you can at once, for about 2 hours is the task. Created a stack of shop rags almost a meter high. They all do great at first, but repeatedly cutting with all your might, all the spidies I've tried this with have suffered the same fate.

For detph of the art class prying, the tip was sunk into the wood base about a 16th of an inch (didn't know this). The plastic was flush with the wood. The pivor point for the prying (top of the plastic) was a little less than an inch from the tip.

A chunk of wook got pried off the flat base as well. I was impressed.

 

[talonturbo]

Keep in mind that the SMF and SNG come with a obtuse final bevel in the interest of durability. But you can reprofile the edge and have much improved slicing ability.

First thing I did when I got it was reprofile it. Down to 30 degrees. Not as strong as it was (occassional chipping when I pry metal with it, such as lighter safeties) but cuts almost on par with a thin edged Spydie. Almost.

If I know I'll need a prybar, I have a modified GB (recurve) and a DB. But it's when you least expect it that your EDC is needed for more than you anticipated.

 

[barrabas74]

I own an SNG.......I do...pry with it, good call on it you wont regret.

 

[Buzzbait]

Cutting as much twisted up cloth as you can at once, for about 2 hours is the task. Created a stack of shop rags almost a meter high. They all do great at first, but repeatedly cutting with all your might, all the spidies I've tried this with have suffered the same fate.

For detph of the art class prying, the tip was sunk into the wood base about a 16th of an inch (didn't know this). The plastic was flush with the wood. The pivor point for the prying (top of the plastic) was a little less than an inch from the tip.

A chunk of wook got pried off the flat base as well. I was impressed.

Thank you very much for the info. If each pass of the blade went through layers of shop rags, I could definitely see that as being one tough mother of a job, especially for that long a period of time. That's a tough cut to control, and must have produced a bunch of lateral stress on the knife, as well as the more obvious vertical stresses.

Did you notice any deformation in the FRN around the pivots of the Native and Endura? Or do you think that only the riveted pivots just started to separate? I’ve had riveted knives develop horizontal play in this same exact way, after very little use. The use was hard, and produced a lot of lateral stress. That’s one reason why I don’t use my Buck 110s much anymore. Tough jobs have a tendency to reap havoc on the riveted 110 pivots.

I'm still blown away by the Manix getting loosened up, both horizontally and vertically. I’d love to know what caused the excess horizontal play.

I especially like this account of what happened, as it is “real world use”, and not a test based on theoreticals, designed to test a knife. Real world uses often seem to stress a knife in very harsh and unpredictable ways.

I grabbed a ruler and took a look at the SNG and Para blades. The very tip of the Para might easily have perished, as the first 1/6” of the Para is actually all edge grind to the spine. Very little spine at that spot, and precious little steel to back it up.

An inch up the spine was interesting. The SNG still has a good amount of spine thickness at that point. Not the full thickness of the blade, but still almost 1/8” thick. The Para was about a 1/32” less than that. The SNG’s blade is about 7/8” wide at that spot, while the Para is approximately 11/16”. That might be a little more significant.

All in all, it’s good to hear that an SNG can handle that kind of prying without a problem. If you read much around here, you’d think that the frame lock would have surely popped loose. If your SNG is the same model as mine, I wonder how much the Hinderer lock bar stabilizer had to do with handling the torque issues associated with the prying.

One more question. Have you ever subjected the SNG to the same shop rag duty?

Thanks again.

 

[Esav Benyamin]

the same shop rag duty

Mora 2000

 

[Blades]

I don't get the whole prybaby thing.

I hardly ever pry on anything. If I do it's with the claw end of a hammer or a crowbar.

What are you guys all prying on all the time that you need to have one of these?

I use my Prybaby at work alot to pry open customer's keychains. I work at a dealership, and all I need is a car key to work on your car. I don't need a pound of keys, just a car key.



Blades

 

[Blades]

I don't get the whole prybaby thing.

I hardly ever pry on anything. If I do it's with the claw end of a hammer or a crowbar.

What are you guys all prying on all the time that you need to have one of these?

I use my Prybaby at work alot to pry open customer's keychains. I work at a dealership, and all I need is a car key to work on your car. I don't need a pound of keys, just a car key.



Blades

 

[talonturbo]

Did you notice any deformation in the FRN around the pivots of the Native and Endura? Or do you think that only the riveted pivots just started to separate? I’ve had riveted knives develop horizontal play in this same exact way, after very little use.

Rivets. That's why the Manix faired better than the FRN models, but still showed at least a year of "loosening" after just 2 hours. The FRN models exibited more play after 2 hours than at least 2 or 3 years' use. To the point of not wanting to use them anymore.

If you read much around here, you’d think that the frame lock would have surely popped loose.

LOL, yeah, theoretically it probably should have crumbled to pieces. Theories work great in theory. Especially coming from people who have likely never appreciated the strength of a Strider. Kind of like a "Bench racer" in the car world. My first Talon, according to others' theories, should have hit a best of about a 13.5, if not worse. I did 12.9 on my second run. My last comment on lock strength is this:

A framelock in not the greatest lock design. But I see Strider knives the way I see most domestic sports cars. It's kinda like screw technology and efficiency, we'll just make the V8 bigger. You can make, with research, a 300hp 4 cylinder. Or you can make a low tech V8 threee times the size that accomplishes the same thing. Strider took the lesser design and overbuilt it to the point of being at least on par with a more advanced lock, such as compression or AXIS, which are honestly underbuilt because of the superior design.

It you wanted to have your cake and eat it too, you would have a high tech turbo'ed V8, and a compression lock .150 thick.

One more question. Have you ever subjected the SNG to the same shop rag duty?

Nope, don't work at that shop anymore, I work for myself out of my garage where I actually buy shop towels, instead of chop up rags. I don't have some underpaid kid to spend 2 hours doing that for me

 

[J85909266]

It you wanted to have your cake and eat it too, you would have a high tech turbo'ed V8, and a compression lock .150 thick.