carbide platen

Regarding heat conduction. I got a carbide platen affixed with two vertical strips of that 3M tape to an aluminum backer….but the tape is thick, thick enough that it holds the carbide away from the aluminum with an air space between the tape strips. The carbide itself might be much better at drawing heat from the blade contact point but the 3M tape set up insulates from dumping that heat into the backer (and any platen chiller used. Might not matter, but the thermal conduction from platen to backing will be poor.
 
Mine have tapped holes for mounting.

If you have to use tape try this:
Get a tube Thermal Conductive Paste. It is a white paste used for heat sinks. Amazon or anywhere will have a tube of it.
Put 1/2" wide strips of tape down both sides and across the bottom of the platen to make a tape perimeter. Cut a 1/4" wide slot in the top piec of tape to make an escape route for the excess paste. Put the paste in the middle of the tape rectangle. Carefully spread it out so there is just enough to make contact with the backer when the taped platen is pressed to it. Start attaching from the bottom and apply toward the top. The excess should squish out the top vent. The paste will conduct the heat to the backer.
 
All this talk of a carbide platen reminds me of how badly I need one. I have a glass one right now but it has a pretty bad dip in it.
 
Remove it and flip it over. If it’s taped or glued you can soften it with a heat gun and carefully pry it up with a putty knife.
 
David Mary said:
Remove it and flip it over. If it’s taped or glued you can soften it with a heat gun and carefully pry it up with a putty knife.
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Great idea, I'll have to take a look at it tomorrow.
 
Either make the tape/glue let go completely before prying it up, or if it's still holding a bit, pry a little bit on one aisde, then the other, and repeat gradually so you are not putting too much force on any one side at once. Try to use even force on one side then the other. You can snap it easily. I have snapped two or three now. You should also use acetone to completely clean off the gunk before repositioning the platen.
 
David Mary said:
Either make the tape/glue let go completely before prying it up, or if it's still holding a bit, pry a little bit on one aisde, then the other, and repeat gradually so you are not putting too much force on any one side at once. Try to use even force on one side then the other. You can snap it easily. I have snapped two or three now. You should also use acetone to completely clean off the gunk before repositioning the platen.
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How are they normally attached? I think mine is glued now, but if I end up getting if off, how do I put it back on the strongest way?
 
Linus Knives said:
How are they normally attached? I think mine is glued now, but if I end up getting if off, how do I put it back on the strongest way?
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I've used glass for years. I use JB Weld to put them on. Time to remove and a lil light heating with a torch and they come right off. Duh could have had a V8! How old ya got to be to get that reference? Anyhoo never thought of flipping one.
 
I've probably gone through close to 20 platens in about five years. However, if you count the flips, then it's more like 35. There were a few that had catastrophic failures. Had two platens let go prematurely and fly off the grinder when I was attaching them with superglue. They let go while the machine was on, and flew off in the belt's of travel (directly away from me). Hit the steel backing I have up to stop sparks from eating the wood board and shattered. But I started attaching them with double sided Gorilla tape a couple years ago, which resolved that, and also made grinding much smoother and more forgiving, due to the shock absorbency factor.
 
My glass edges always chipped, even when rolled and polished with fine belts run wet. The Carbide corners don't budge, which makes my plunges much nicer!
 
Yep. Part of my grinding process before was strategically avoiding the worn parts of the platen, and once I could no longer produce the result I wanted on a blade, it was time to flip or change it.
 
I’ve attached glass and now my carbide platen with 3M high temp tape. I believe Stacy mentioned tape in his previous post. Even with heat and soaking in acetone I chipped the edges when attempting to remove the glass. Don’t have to worry about that any more. Now I just have to redo my carbide with a bit of heat conducting paste sandwiched in between. Thanks for the tip Stacy!!
 
Well, I tried to remove my glass platen but I guess the person before me didn't want me to flip it:(
I cracked it in several pieces- I guess I'll have to order another one or maybe a carbide one if I can afford it... I wasn't planning on this happening and now I have to stall my projects :(
My fault I'm sure!

Where do you recommend I get another platen for the best price with the fast delivery time?
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I’d offer you the three brand new ones I have here for a good price but they won’t get to you fast.

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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Mine have tapped holes for mounting.
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I want to get a carbide platen, but really want one with a couple holes in it so I can mount it. Ideally, I would like to use flat head #6 machine screws, so the holes will have to be tapered for the screw heads. I can mill my platen flat and leave a small shelf at the bottom for support, and I can tap the holes where needed in the platen, that's not a problem. Drilling and countersinking a couple holes in a carbide platen would be the problem. Did you drill the holes in your platen or buy it already done? And where did you get it from if it was already done? thanks.
 
lukusamongus said:
I want to get a carbide platen, but really want one with a couple holes in it so I can mount it. Ideally, I would like to use flat head #6 machine screws, so the holes will have to be tapered for the screw heads. I can mill my platen flat and leave a small shelf at the bottom for support, and I can tap the holes where needed in the platen, that's not a problem. Drilling and countersinking a couple holes in a carbide platen would be the problem. Did you drill the holes in your platen or buy it already done? And where did you get it from if it was already done? thanks.
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You have 2 options for making a shelf underneath the carbide.
- small setscrews underneath the carbide
- tagwelding a small piece of strip underneath the carbide on to your baseplate.

For mounting the carbide the 3m vhb heat resistant tape is in my experience the best option with the lowest fail rate.

If you are looking for an 8” carbide and you are based in the us you can get it from Contender Machine Contender Machine .

If you want a carbide platen mounted on a baseplate to fit your machine let me know and i can make that.
 

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lukusamongus said:
I want to get a carbide platen, but really want one with a couple holes in it so I can mount it. Ideally, I would like to use flat head #6 machine screws, so the holes will have to be tapered for the screw heads. I can mill my platen flat and leave a small shelf at the bottom for support, and I can tap the holes where needed in the platen, that's not a problem. Drilling and countersinking a couple holes in a carbide platen would be the problem. Did you drill the holes in your platen or buy it already done? And where did you get it from if it was already done? thanks.
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I don't think Stacy was talking about a carbide platen as it is impossible to tap carbide and even with other methods it is very difficult to put threads in. Even putting a countersunk hole in a piece of carbide isn't practical at all and certainly not something you can do at home. It is best to just mount it with tape or an adhesive to a backer as shown above.
 
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