carbon steel still popular?

Heat treat and sharpening angle are of huge importance when you're comparing cutting performance. If supreme abrasion resistance (edge holding) is your goal, go with vascowear or s30v. Most makers will tell you that it takes twice as much time and twice as many belts to grind and polish either of these steels.....same can be said for simple cardboard cutting contests....s30v and vascowear are at or near the present pinnacle. My folders are primarily bg42 or ats34.....edge created with a worn abrasive belt, honed with worn slick 800 grit compound filled hermes belt and I'll take these over 1084, 52100 or 1095 for edge holding and stain resistance.
Great test would be cutting contest modelled after ABS where 1084 modified and 52100 blades are put up against vascowear, D2 and s30v.
Lots of we makers began using steels like 0-1 cause it cuts and polishes easy and can be heat treated with a torch. we didn't have atmospheric control furnaces or sub-zero quench. Frank Centofante, Jimmy Lile and Ted Dowell raved about D2 so we headed in that direction. Bob Loveless was quite successful and outspoken re cm154 so we did that for a while.....Hitachi got greedy with ats34 prices and bg42 came on the scene. Plenty of room for agreement and disagreement among makers, writers, collectors, etc. Sad thing is that most folks who rave about certain steels have a few lbs. of that steel on hand.....such as a few folks on the internet who brag about using A2. D2 is tougher and holds an edge better and has higher ductility than A2. A2 may be easier to field sharpen with a steel or stone but loses the edge faster.
Like a Montana guide told me about my Latrobe D2 skinner....it may be able to skin out 6 elk but how many of us will dress out 6 elk in one day ?
Tommy McNabb and I forged a billet of 52100, L6(saw blade), and1095. Durn toughest piece of steel ever, s30v included. Seems to me that real breakthroughs in the future will come from the ABS folks. and that's my two cents worth.....
 
Tim (or anyone),

You seem to know your steels. Where is Shun's SG2 in all of this? I'm guessing it comes from Hitachi, and I know it's a powder HIP steel. Is it anything like S30V?

I'm here in this thread because I continue to be amazed at how well my old 1943 bayonet in 1095 performs compared to my Shun in SG2.

Edit: Correct me if I'm wrong: I take it that ABS refers to the American Bladesmith Society.
 
Mr. Britton,

You must know something a bit different.

Every steel Chart I have ever seen says that A-2 is tougher and more ductile than D-2 and that D-2 has more Wear Resistance.

So at the same hardness The A-2 is Tougher and the D-2 holds it's edge longer.

Have I been reading all those charts Wrong?

Jim
 
SG2 is made by Takefu and is fairly similar to S30V with more molybdenum and less vanadium.

A2 is tougher than D2.
 
Clarification for you steel experts out there....every batch of steel is slightly different. Add to that differences between manufacturers and then add in whether it is hot rolled or cold rolled, etc. Your absolute declarations that A2 is better or D2 is "better" are shakey at best. the charts that you refer to.....anybody want to share the actual sources ? Carpenter Technology used to publish a chart but it always praised their steels....it is and was a sales tool. Variables such as heat treat, ideal rockwell hardness for knife blades, etc. are way too complex to afford us the simplistic statements that I see on this forum. Corbet Sigmon used to say he thought F8 was one of the best cutlery steels out there. His was a voice in the wilderness.....noone else seemed to agree with him.
The old adage of "what seems to work best for you" has good application here. Be very wary of folks who proclaim to have discovered the miracle steel. In a previous life they were most likely snake oil salesmen. I am forging more blades lately. A customer asked me why I was using W-2 and my HONEST reply was that I had trouble finding W-1 at that particular hammer-in. Sometimes it is just that simple.
 
Mr. Britton,

Nobody said that one was better than the other.

A-2 is tougher than D-2 but D-2 holds it's edge longer.

You can dispute that but You would seem to be standing by Yourself on that Issue.

From what I have seen in the industry both are fine steels if heat treated and tempered properly.

I think that most people do know that the maker and his skill at the craft are more important then the steel he uses.

Jim
 
I wouldn't necessarily say that D2 holds its edge longer than A2 either, it depends on the use. D2 has more wear resistance than A2 and A2 is tougher than D2. This is almost regardless of how each was made, but surely when the two steels are purchased from the same steel company the differences will be apparent. It all comes down to carbide volume, both steels have chromium carbides, so the hardness of the carbide is not the issue. But then A2 has less than half the volume of carbide that D2 has, so its toughness will be much greater and abrasion resistance will be less.

Oh, and if you want sources you can see toughness and wear resistance comparisons of D2 and A2 from a variety of steel companies, Crucible and Latrobe are two of them.
 
And here is another contender....Dick Atkinson has been making knives since before dirt. His neighbor is a retiree from a lab where they test metals and analyze their various properties and characteristics. Dick AND his neighbor claim to consistently get a better blade using 440C heat treated properly than with ANY other grade of steel. Tests were performed under laboratory conditions....including spectrograhic analysis.
VASCOWEAR and s30v top my list, but a differentially hardened 52100 blade from my forge is what I use and carry. My best guarded conclusion is that all of the most commonly used (by custom makers) cutlery steels have merit and are quite serviceable if heat treated and sharpened properly. Best test I've come up with is slicing cardboard. Make a series of 12" slices until the blade starts dragging. Anybody out there had a chance to play with one of the "new" diamond edge blades ?
 
Tim, If you are able to make the Raleigh show in Nov. can you bring any vascowear blades you have ready please? I've been meaning to buy one, and talk to you about it every time I see you. I'll bring the cash this time. If you are going that is. Something simple preferably. You'll recognize me when you see me. By the way nobody can find F8 any more. You don't have any lying around , do you? Thanks, Joe
 
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