carbon steel?

If you like 1095, you should go buy a buck 110 with CPM-154 steel before you give up all together on stainless. (In fact bucks 420HC is very good also) That is some good steel. Also, I have been noticing that Mr. Reeve's heat treat on his sebenza is very good to where his s30v takes a much finer edge then most others I have had. Also, try some of that infi steel, man that takes one hell of an edge and holds it very well!!!....

I have a couple of 1095 steels, and they are good, no doubt about it. But I like infi better then 1095, and I also like the stainless knives on my folders.
 
Incahiker said:
I have a couple of 1095 steels, and they are good, no doubt about it. But I like infi better then 1095, and I also like the stainless knives on my folders.
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Would you mind posting what's better about INFI than a good heat treated 1095 - take Esse for e.g.? :)
 
CZIV, you really can't compare the two-I only have SR101 and still that Busse steel is on a whole nother level. I was very skeptical at first... holds an edge as long as most really hard stainless steels, but it still rolls and dents before it microchips like a stainless blade does, and it is very tough stuff to boot.
 
PayetteRucker said:
CZIV, you really can't compare the two-I only have SR101 and still that Busse steel is on a whole nother level. I was very skeptical at first... holds an edge as long as most really hard stainless steels, but it still rolls and dents before it microchips like a stainless blade does, and it is very tough stuff to boot.
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Okay, I hear ya, that explains a lot. Thanks! :)
 
seniormcblade said:
why is 1095 carbon steel so great?. its superior to any thing else ive used . including s30v. why is this true?.
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To be honest, I don't really care for 1095 that much.

I think that it is a tough steel but IMO it really doesn't outperform S30V, VG10, CPM-154, ATS-34, or BG-42 when it comes to actually cutting most things.
I also don't care for the taste that it adds to food.

I will admit that a nice patina looks sweet.
I especially like the way a patina blackened blade looks on a knife with yellow scales.:)

knives131.jpg
 
cziv said:
Would you mind posting what's better about INFI than a good heat treated 1095 - take Esse for e.g.? :)
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that guys explained a good bit above. Also, infi is much more stainless then 1095 is, it is as stainless as D2 or more, which is pretty much stainless... it is more tough also, which means when you pry with both of them, the 1095 will most definitely break first. Even though I don't do that with my knives, well, it is what it is.

Also, in my experience it seems as if infi will also take a very wicked edge (and I mean wicked) more easily then 1095 and also hold it longer. I went and did some wood process with both steels yesterday and they both did the same amount of work, and while the 1095 was still sharp, the infi felt like it still came right off of being sharpened with the leather power strop. I was pretty impressed.
 
Thanks Incahiker,

I bought a Bushwacker Mistress & a Junglas at the same time and the Junglas was exponentially sharper than the Infi offering from Busse. That's why I asked. I guess I should have sent it back to them for sharpening but I sold it. :(
 
Hmmm... the only busse I have is a mean street, and it came extremely dull with a very thick edge, could hardly cut paper with it. But I sharpen all of my knives to mirror sharp convex and also thinned out the edge. Man, that thing sharpened up really nice, faster then I expected. With that being the case I didn't think it would hold its edge as long as 1095, but I was wrong about that too. It held it longer, actually didn't even lose any sharpness. I like that plus the other 2 advantages of it being more stainless and much tougher. It is good stuff.. perhaps you should get anotherone and get a belt sander and sharpen it up nice and good.


cziv said:
Thanks Incahiker,

I bought a Bushwacker Mistress & a Junglas at the same time and the Junglas was exponentially sharper than the Infi offering from Busse. That's why I asked. I guess I should have sent it back to them for sharpening but I sold it. :(
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Incahiker said:
Hmmm... the only busse I have is a mean street, and it came extremely dull with a very thick edge, could hardly cut paper with it. But I sharpen all of my knives to mirror sharp convex and also thinned out the edge. Man, that thing sharpened up really nice, faster then I expected. With that being the case I didn't think it would hold its edge as long as 1095, but I was wrong about that too. It held it longer, actually didn't even lose any sharpness. I like that plus the other 2 advantages of it being more stainless and much tougher. It is good stuff.. perhaps you should get anotherone and get a belt sander and sharpen it up nice and good.
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I agree, my Boss Street came with a very thick and obtuse edge. I thinned it out a bit, and put a mirror polish on it, and now it is incredibly sharp.

Compared to S30V or D2, sharpening INFI is much easier.

The only knife I have in 1095 is an Izula, but I've found that the Boss Street has yet to develop a patina, while the Izula already has. In fact, I had a little bit of rust and pitting on the Izula.

The polish on the Boss Street is a little...hmmm...well gray? My other knives in stainless take and maintain a bright mirror polish, while the INFI takes a bright polish but then dulls to a grayer look. I haven't needed to keep oil on the Busse, but I definitely have to keep oil on the Izula.
 
Sorry, I meant Boss street also, not mean street.... My boss streets edge was very thick and not sharp, it is the only busse I have.

My infi thus far has kept it's mirror polished edge, maybe it will take a little longer and it will dull to a grey? Both 1095 and infi have the exact same looking mirror polish after being used also.
 
I use my knives for a lot of food prep, so they get lots of acidic juice on them all the time.

Oranges, lemons, tomatoes, tons of stuff.

That's probably why I see a graying on the INFI. In fact, in direct comparison to 1095 for nearly the same use food-prep wise, the 1095 developed light surface rust and pitting compared to only a graying on the INFI.
 
Incahiker said:
I didn't think it would hold its edge as long as 1095, but I was wrong about that too. It held it longer, actually didn't even lose any sharpness. I like that plus the other 2 advantages of it being more stainless and much tougher. It is good stuff.. perhaps you should get anotherone and get a belt sander and sharpen it up nice and good.
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I appreciate you guys' love of Busse/kin but I shouldn't have to buy a belt sander to sharpen a new $400, full convex, 10" blade knife that came with a dull V grind. It should have come razor sharp. That's a p*ss poor showing on their part IMO. YMMV.... :thumbdn:
 
Ya, if you look at it that way you are right. But I don't mind since I reprofile and sharpen all my knives to the way I want them to peform. If I feel the knife will be a keeper (feels good in the hand, handles like I want) I take it to the belt sander and within 5 minutes I have the edge that I want on the knife, not what the manufacturer deems it should be. It only took 5 minutes to knock off that thick edge and give it a nice thinner convex edge. I did not thin it out too much since this is my SHTF knife and it should be able to take a lot of wear and tear without losing its sharpness. I guess if I didn't sharpen my knives I would feel the same as you, but I love to sharpen up anything with an edge. The only knives I have felt didn't need to be sharpened were my bark river knives and my Helle knives, all the other knives usuall come with a ragged 220 grit edge. Do not be limited by the manufactuer of the knife, it only takes 5 minutes to grind in any edge you like, that is nothing.
 
Put on duracoat or parkerize it and you wont have to worry much about rust. But that might take the fun out of it.

BTW I second the 3V, hope to be making some knives out of it soon. I hear it is a real pain to work with. I would image M4 would be a great upgrade from 1095 too.
 
Where would 1095 rate on the 3V Tool Steel Comparagraph? I'm guessing that CPM 3V will be much tougher and CPM M4 will have much better wear resistance (carbide rich) -- that's to be expected. But for being a simple steel, how would it compare?
 
seniormcblade said:
me 2, im really not a big fan of 420hc.....regardless what buck says.they are so-so. but can you provide a opinion on a outkast in d-2/
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I personally wouldn't choose D2 for a knife like that. D2's characteristics are not geared toward a large chopper. That said, for a large chopper, I wouldn't choose 1095 either. And, there are many satisfied Outcast users, so either they are not pushing the knives to the point D2's disadvantages will show or Kershaw has made up for them by other design changes. I have not used an Outcast, and likely never will, though it might be fun to put one up against my Barong machete in 1055 just to see what would happen.

For a knife that size, I would choose a tougher steel than D2 with lower wear resistance. Something like S7, 5160, L6, 1055 to 1075, 8670M, or in stainless, something like 12C27, 12C27M, 420HC. Basically anything with ~0.8% carbon or less, with few carbides and preferably soft enough to be filed. That's one of my requirements now for a large chopper, since I was doing a lot of machete work when my belt sander gave up the ghost and I had to sharpen the machete's by hand. I have all the choppers I need now, all in 1055. I may move to something new, but it would be mostly out of curiosity.
 
Hi me2.
Eickhorns heat treat of D2 in there GEK 2000 makes it a GREAT chopper. D2 if heat treated well like 440C makes them great steels.
 
Cziv, you've probably heard me say this before but....... its a factory edge, they all come dull. I haven't used a inferior edge.... I mean factory edge in 15+ years and see no need to start. Sharpen how you like and keeping it sharp is much easier.

Me2, don't doubt the outcast its a excellent chopper and extremely tough. Kershaw sets the D2 at a 57-58Rc and you would have to be extremely abusive to damage this blade. O... and it would probably cut through the machete :)
 
Like I said, plenty of satisfied Outcast users out there, but for a knife of that type, I'd go with something other than 1095 or D2. FWIW, I've seen pictures of more broken BRKT Goloks in 1095 than Kershaw Outcasts in D2. Of course, it's one broken Golok vs. no broken Outcasts.
 
3v & m4 should make the best choppers around. all the cutting contests [almost] use thin ground m4 & the ferhmans in 3v have an enviable record for choppers. however considering the cost of the exotic alloys choppers are probably served best by s7 --1080 & 1055.
dennis
 
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