Carbon vs Stainless Steel

eKretz said:
WTF are you talking about? Someone made an inaccurate statement and it was corrected. If you would prefer to remain ignorant, please do so. But please refrain from opening your mouth in an effort to persuade others to do so.
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You don't know what you're talking about, quoting something from a website doesn't make you smart. Please refrain from being so rude to others here. Just because others don't know what you know, doesn't mean they are ignorant.
 
I'm not going to bother reading through 11 pages of posts to see who started with the insults and smartass comments, personally I don't care.

What I will do though is start following this thread and ANY further insults or smartass comments will result in warnings being issued with major points and being banned from this thread.
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignorance
Ignorance , per se , is just a lack of knowledge and can be remedied with learning and experience . Stupid , nasty and rude are harder to fix . Doesn't hurt to try . We should all perhaps start with ourselves first ? o_O

EDIT : My post not intended as a counter to anyone else !
 
I know this isn't the same thing about what you guys are talking about. But on a whim a few years ago I bought a Titanium coated Camillus 440 knife from Walmart like the below. (I liked the Paracord)

dfa18929-0003-4b1a-9c95-72604848fdf3_1.eb47559f896ac1a7a2ca747267d5bb07.jpeg

I remember reading the packaging how it clamed the Titanium coating made it 10x stronger then regular stainless steel.

I took it home and I had it only a few mins and decided to stick it into a log. Well the blade didn't chip it made this huge dent! I've never seen a knife dent like that before or since. It took me hours to remove enough of the surface to get the dent out.
 
cbrstar said:
I know this isn't the same thing about what you guys are talking about. But on a whim a few years ago I bought a Titanium coated Camillus 440 knife from Walmart like the below. (I liked the Paracord)

dfa18929-0003-4b1a-9c95-72604848fdf3_1.eb47559f896ac1a7a2ca747267d5bb07.jpeg

I remember reading the packaging how it clamed the Titanium coating made it 10x stronger then regular stainless steel.

I took it home and I had it only a few mins and decided to stick it into a log. Well the blade didn't chip it made this huge dent! I've never seen a knife dent like that before or since. It took me hours to remove enough of the surface to get the dent out.
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They can make that somewhat misleading claim because the coating itself is 10x stronger than "regular" stainless steel. The coating however, does not have an effect on the underlying material's properties. Maybe they figured they could skip the heat treatment if they used the coating?:confused:
It does save a lot of money!:rolleyes:
 
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Metallurgical analysis has shown that printing the word “titanium” on the side of a knife can increase its strength and edge retention 10x, while marketing analysis shows that printing the word “titanium” on knife packaging can increase sales 10x, but only for knives that cost less that 30 bucks or swords that cost less that $99.99 plus shipping.
 
I guess just like Larrin's article says it's all about the heat treat.

Out of curiosity though what metal heat treats better for the avg knifemaker out there who's working from his shed? The reason I ask is I once saw the Buck factory on how stuff works, and I was shocked to see how precise they heat treat only certain parts of the blade and wondered if the avg guy could duplicate it.
 
cbrstar said:
I guess just like Larrin's article says it's all about the heat treat.

Out of curiosity though what metal heat treats better for the avg knifemaker out there who's working from his shed? The reason I ask is I once saw the Buck factory on how stuff works, and I was shocked to see how precise they heat treat only certain parts of the blade and wondered if the avg guy could duplicate it.
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Simple low-alloy non-stainless steels are generally easiest to get good results from with low-tech methods.
 
cbrstar said:
I guess just like Larrin's article says it's all about the heat treat.

Out of curiosity though what metal heat treats better for the avg knifemaker out there who's working from his shed? The reason I ask is I once saw the Buck factory on how stuff works, and I was shocked to see how precise they heat treat only certain parts of the blade and wondered if the avg guy could duplicate it.
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1084 is probably the easiest to heat treat in a forge or by torch, heat it until a magnet doesn’t stick to it and quench it in canola oil at 120 degrees. 60% of the time it works every time.

H1 would also be “easy” to heat treat since it precipitation hardens...
 
91bravo said:
You don't know what you're talking about, quoting something from a website doesn't make you smart. Please refrain from being so rude to others here. Just because others don't know what you know, doesn't mean they are ignorant.
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First of all, I'm not quoting any website when I post. I ran several machine shops over the years and this stuff was some of what we did every day in making parts for industrial customers. I've been in MANY coating and heat treatment shops. If I post a link it's so others can read for their own education and to provide a reference so nobody just has to take my word for it. Often I edit and add a link after I have posted. Second, I really don't care if anyone thinks I'm smart. I'm doing just fine in that department and what anyone else thinks is not important to me.

Additionally, as Doc noted, the exact definition of ignorance is a lack of knowledge. It is NOT an insult. If someone were called stupid or an idiot, that would be an insult. I didn't do that. Ignorant simply means that someone is lacking knowledge - they can either choose to learn or remain ignorant. It was NOT intended to be insulting, though the post I was responding to was indeed insulting. I notice you show no vehemence toward that poster, who basically insulted my post because I noted that his apparent buddy had made an inaccurate statement. Those with knowledge have a responsibility to correct inaccurate information as far as I'm concerned.
 
DocJD said:
http://www.norsemandrill.com/TiN-Coated-Drills.php
Advertising claims that similar coatings improve drill bits and maybe so , but doesn't stop them from just breaking . I do use them and they might be better overall .:confused:
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Coatings on cutting tools can help, but as noted already by danbot, the underlying material is also very important for this application, just like knife blades. The coatings provide lubricity and hardness that allows cutting speeds to be raised, increasing production rates. However, the flip side to this is that once the coating is worn away, you're left with plain-jane steel underneath doing the work.

And it had better be good steel because since it's a coated tool, it's usually being run at elevated speeds. After that coating is gone, the cutting edges usually get destroyed PDQ unless you're watching closely for it and reduce speed afterward. So unless you have a big budget and can just slot in a new drill every time one wears away, better in a production environment to use just regular old HSS/cobalt and have an easy to monitor tool that has a nice gradual wear curve. For home use, TiN coated drill bits might last a little longer on the initial edge, but again, once it's gone it's gone - so make sure you buy a decent brand and not El Cheapo or the substrate steel will often be garbage.
 
Some stainless steels behave same as carbon but do not rust and thats a big plus for me especially in kitchen cutlery.
 
I haven't read all the posts in this thread, I'd get a huge headache if I did. I'm just wondering if there are many people here that are like myself and don't know, or understand all the different steels used in making knives. I generally just pick a kind of knife for a use, then read what others have acquired for that use or a similar one, and I make a choice. Most often it works out well for me and I don't have to be a steel genius. My ignorance but willing to use the knowledge of others is a weakness of mine that keeps me out of trouble. Learning steels would be very boring for me.
 
Its not called Knife Steel Nerds for nothing. Most have no need or want of such information. Nothing wrong there. It only becomes necessary for most when they want something very specific and need to know what will work, or have a knife that is causing problems.
 
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