Case knives

RedLynx,
The Case XX Hunter Two Blade model would be the next closest to your description after the Trapper, but the blades may be a little too long for you at 4".
 
Thanks Bob for your detailed, helpful response.

I plan to do some research on my own, but as you seem to have researched various brands and models already: can you recommend a good 2-blade traditional (from any of those brands) with blades at least somewhat over 3 inches in length? Are there any knives in these brands with at least 3.5-4" blades that you find appealing? I have a large Case Trapper and I find the blade length (around 3.75-4") to be very useful, and prefer larger knives. Although I have recently been getting into Stockman patterns.

I am a big fan of the full size Sod Buster, any similar recommendations would be welcome.

The Boker trappers are top-notch. Jrawk has good info on how to ensure you're getting a German knife. My favorite trapper from them has the washboard bone. The bone gives it a heavier heftier feel than the wood.

Or if you prefer a pure 1095 carbon steel trapper, look for a USA Old Timer. They had many different trapper variations: different size frames, single-blade, two-blade, saw blade, and even one with tweezers and scribe in the handle. Most are 1095 and brown Delrin, but some special editions were bone with stainless. As always with Old Timers, look for the USA tang stamp.

From Great Eastern, the #65 Ben Hogan is 4-1/2". It's got a single long slender blade so probably won't hold up to twisting or prying as well as a trapper. The Ben Hogans sell for about $65; that's about ten bucks more than a CV Case trapper.

Boker also does a fantastic job with their stockman knives and two-blade jacks. :thumbup:
 
RedLynx,
The Case XX Hunter Two Blade model would be the next closest to your description after the Trapper, but the blades may be a little too long for you at 4".

Hi B&B,

This may be in fact what I own, I may have misspoke when I labeled it a Trapper. I'd need to check the model number (it's 6268 or 6862, off the top of my head I cannot recall which is correct.)
 
The Boker trappers are top-notch. Jrawk has good info on how to ensure you're getting a German knife. My favorite trapper from them has the washboard bone. The bone gives it a heavier heftier feel than the wood.

Or if you prefer a pure 1095 carbon steel trapper, look for a USA Old Timer. They had many different trapper variations: different size frames, single-blade, two-blade, saw blade, and even one with tweezers and scribe in the handle. Most are 1095 and brown Delrin, but some special editions were bone with stainless. As always with Old Timers, look for the USA tang stamp.

From Great Eastern, the #65 Ben Hogan is 4-1/2". It's got a single long slender blade so probably won't hold up to twisting or prying as well as a trapper. The Ben Hogans sell for about $65; that's about ten bucks more than a CV Case trapper.

Boker also does a fantastic job with their stockman knives and two-blade jacks. :thumbup:

Excellent info and resources Bob, thanks much. Hoping to get a bit of Christmas money or something sharp, but I'm not allowed to buy anything till after the holidays incase I buy what someone else has already thought of.
 
If I were in the market for a better quality, similarly priced, slipjoint, where would I go? That's a serious question, I like good, affordable slipjoints. I'm very into GEC but I can't afford to pay GEC prices, particularly not if I want more than one.

I don't think anyone has directly mentioned the Buck 300 line. I have a 301 that I've carried for fourteen years, and it has never once let me down. They're not as pretty as Case knives, but they're made in the USA, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy one sight-unseen. On the odd chance that anything turns up wrong with it, I guarantee you Buck will make it right.
 
The only Case I still rotate is an LSST, similar to a Buck 110, I got in the early '80's. Lockup is still good with no play. Hasn't been used that much. I carry it on my belt once or twice a month now. it's held its edge well. I don't think I"d buy a Case today.

I like my 110 better. The one thing I like better about the Case is that it has a sharp spine better for sparking steels. The coating on the brass of the Case is wearing off visibly and it's just not quite that 110 blade, ya know....
 
Speaking of - I went to check out a new knife dealer in town today. The place had a great selection - ESEE, ZT, Spyderco (PM2s in stock!), Mora, and Case, among others. I asked to see a CV Medium Stockman, opened the clip blade, and (very lightly) checked it for blade play (which, by the way, it had, to a degree that I would not have bought the knife.) I thought the guy was going to give birth right there on the floor. He launched into this whole sermon about how Case knives are made in the USA, and how they have pinned blades, and how he's sold over 5,000 of them and nobody has ever complained about blade play, and how it's bad knife etiquette to do that, because you should be using a knife straight up and down without any sideways force anyhow.

I calmly told him that I had put very little force on the knife, not nearly enough to possibly damage it, and that I didn't care where it was made, or how the blades were attached; I knew that Case knives often show blade play from the factory, and that, if he thought I was buying ANY folding knife from him, especially a Case, without checking, then he was a lot crazier than I had given him credit for.

We agreed to disagree. It's a pity, too. The guy has no friggin' idea how many of those knives in there are on my wish list, many of them that aren't stocked anywhere else nearby.

As for the Stockman, aside from blade play, there was also the normal space between springs and liners, and the edges were rough as hell, with a huge burr. Pretty standard stuff, unfortunately.
 
friend.

How does the steel hold to say bucks 420hc

Are case knives any good?

ZTD

Depends on your definition of "good". If you are a collector and are looking for fit and finish just shy of a custom, then "no". GEC is what you should be looking at. For other purposes, I find Case to be a reasonable build quality at their price point.

I've carried and used knives for over 50 years. I never carried Case knives until the last 5 or 6 years. Now I have a half dozen or so, all of current manufacture, all bought over the net. None has any blade wobble. The springs are reasonably flat in open and closed positions. I've not seen any gaps between the covers and the frame.

The CV is an alloy steel (non-stainless). One of the craftsmen whose word I trust says he has measured the hardness at 58HRC. Because it has no carbides, it isn't the greatest for cutting abrasive materials, but it does OK for everyday use. IMO, the CV holds an edge about the same as Buck 420HC.

Tru-Sharp is 420HC. It's hardened to a 55. It holds an edge a bit less well than the CV. It holds an edge less well than Buck 420HC.

Case has not been purchased by Frost.
 
That's a really good point. I'd be interested to hear from some of the serious collectors, how many of the problems that you see are F&F issues that are just disappointing, vs. how many are functional issues that would affect the use of the knife.
 
Older Case knives are excellent; however now Case is the "beanie baby" of knives. They make every possible style and handle material mainly for the collector market. Also IMHO they are mostly severely over priced.
Rich
 
That's a really good point. I'd be interested to hear from some of the serious collectors, how many of the problems that you see are F&F issues that are just disappointing, vs. how many are functional issues that would affect the use of the knife.

From the viewpoint of a hobbiest collector ( I seriously collect other brands), and how the quality relates to collecting, there's not much point in collecting knives that are below-average or not a good representation of their brand.
The biggest functional problems I've seen with Case knives over the last few years is the jagged edges. Can't cut anything nicely without spending a lot of time sharpening the blades. I fail to understand how this even happens. No other brand has this problem, and it's so easy to fix. It's almost as if Case is skipping the final step in knife building to save a few cents per knife.
The blade wobble and weak springs don't keep the knife from cutting, but these problems are a half-step beyond "disappointing" too. It's an ongoing problem that indicates a flaw within the company itself - either insufficient QC, design flaws, machining problems, and/or lack of oversight of the production. It makes their knives not worth the asking price, for example. If you received a new Ford with a split down the center of the dash, and 20% of the Fords on the lot had the same problem, would that merely be "disappointing" because it doesn't actually prevent the vehicle from driving?

These are poor images, taken years ago on a flatbed. I could do better now with a modern camera and closeup lens.
This is a Case Tiny Trapper:
TinyTrapper2.jpg


And these two are from a high-priced stag pen knife:
stagpen4.jpg


stagpen3.jpg


Seriously, what did they use at the factory to finish those edges???
 
I love case , I still collect them !!! 900+ can't remember the exact number but it's up there . And if you start collecting a few the ones that are only 250 made really nice. And sometimes the only 3000 made ones are super too.
 
Defining quality is a very subjective thing... case in point (pun intended) a 1 in 20 failure is poor quality to me in knives... as a custom maker if 1 in 20 of my knives was flawed or failed I wouldn't be in business long... I don't understand why it is OK in the production world.

I didn't say the knife was a "failure". I said one of them was less than the other 19. If the knife had been a failure, I would have returned it or sent to Case for repair/replacement--it's a perfectly good knife, just not quite as good as the other 19 or so I own.

I have a lot of knives, traditional and modern. Of the traditionals, other than Case, I own Queen, GEC, Schatt & Morgan, Moore Maker, Schrade, Hen & Rooster, Boker, Bulldog Brand and I'm sure several other well known brands that slip my mind at this time. While I usually carry Spydercos these days, the only traditional brand that is still represented in my regular rotation of knives is Case. They are good solid user knives that look nice and sell for reasonable prices.
 
...Seriously, what did they use at the factory to finish those edges???

Heh-heh...those look pretty bad. But at least there's an edge on them. Have you had much experience with the various brands made by Queen Cutlery. They're often butter knives. And expensive. And the D2 Queen uses needs a good bit of work to ever get an edge.

(And, yeah...I like Queen knives too.)
 
Bob W, thanks for your post. I wasn't implying that anyone was being oversensitive or unreasonably picky. I was genuinely curious, since I haven't handled nearly as many of these knives as some of you have. I totally agree that there is a big difference between, say, a bit of backspring space, and an edge that looks like it was ground by a chimpanzee with a belt sander.
 
Are we talking users or collector knives? I use to have a small Case collection (last one was a 10 dot); barlows, 6383, Moose, stockman, Texas jack, etc. - excellent knives. Now I carry a Victorinox Deluxe Tinker in my belt pouch and either a Kershaw Drone or a CRKT Carson M4W in my pocket. I've also found the Rough Rider knives are actually quite decent knives; well made, crafted, come user sharp (but I always sharpened my users when I get them. No more Case expense beanie babies for me.
Rich
 
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Depends on your definition of "good". If you are a collector and are looking for fit and finish just shy of a custom, then "no". GEC is what you should be looking at. For other purposes, I find Case to be a reasonable build quality at their price point.

I've carried and used knives for over 50 years. I never carried Case knives until the last 5 or 6 years. Now I have a half dozen or so, all of current manufacture, all bought over the net. None has any blade wobble. The springs are reasonably flat in open and closed positions. I've not seen any gaps between the covers and the frame.

The CV is an alloy steel (non-stainless). One of the craftsmen whose word I trust says he has measured the hardness at 58HRC. Because it has no carbides, it isn't the greatest for cutting abrasive materials, but it does OK for everyday use. IMO, the CV holds an edge about the same as Buck 420HC.

Tru-Sharp is 420HC. It's hardened to a 55. It holds an edge a bit less well than the CV. It holds an edge less well than Buck 420HC.

Case has not been purchased by Frost.

Thank you lol

ZTD
 
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