Case large stockman too big?

I love the size of the large stockman, fills my hand when I use it and rides fine in my pocket.
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A yellow handle and blades of chrome vanadium in big pocketknife made this one stand out in the display at Smoky Mtn Knifeworks and end up in my pocket.I don't use it often but when I do the size is no problem.
 
Well I pulled the trigger on my first slip joint today.(I exclude the sack I've owned for god knows how long, and I don't know how I got it) I was really eying the GEC #81 pattern stockman, but I just couldn't justify spending that kind of money right now. I just knew I had to get something though and soon. I went with the large case stockman, since it wasn't to expensive and would put off buying a more expensive one for at least a little while. I am very pleased. I knew size wasn't an issue since I'm used to carrying 3.5-4"(blade) modern folders. It actually seemed a little smaller than I expected. Probably the only draw back was that it was marked up $10, but I guess that's the price you pay for supporting local business. Now if I could only find a local shop that sells stones. It seems like no one carries them anymore.
 
Well I pulled the trigger on my first slip joint today.(I exclude the sack I've owned for god knows how long, and I don't know how I got it) I was really eying the GEC #81 pattern stockman, but I just couldn't justify spending that kind of money right now. I just knew I had to get something though and soon. I went with the large case stockman, since it wasn't to expensive and would put off buying a more expensive one for at least a little while. I am very pleased. I knew size wasn't an issue since I'm used to carrying 3.5-4"(blade) modern folders. It actually seemed a little smaller than I expected. Probably the only draw back was that it was marked up $10, but I guess that's the price you pay for supporting local business. Now if I could only find a local shop that sells stones. It seems like no one carries them anymore.

All of these tools below will work well for sharpening Case's blades (I have all mentioned below, and have used them for mine at one time or another):

  • Norton 'Economy' 6" stone (silicon carbide), at Home Depot for about $7 or so; also pick up some white rouge buffing compound for stropping.
  • Similar/same as above, also found at Ace Hardware or Sears, for roughly the same money; they also carry some good compounds for stropping (Sears #2 grey, and their green as well).
  • Wet/dry sandpaper (silicon carbide) from 3M or Norton, found at Home Depot, Lowe's, Walmart, and many woodworking & auto supply outlets (finishing supplies).
  • Any 'Fine' or finer diamond hone, often found at sporting goods/hunting stores, from DMT, Smith's, Eze-Lap. Might also find tools like the Sharpmaker or Lansky V-crock type ceramic sharpeners in outlets like these (Cabela's, Sportsman's Warehouse for starters).

That's the beauty in these knives, as the steel is very easy to get along with and maintain, with most any abrasive tools used.


David
 
Oh I have a Smith arkansa stone and a Smith sharpening set. The arkansa stone does fine for keeping an edge, but as soon as some of the modern steels get just a little dull it takes a while for me to bring them back. I've just wanted a good two sided stone for a while now, because I've just wanted to get into a more "traditional" way of sharpening long before my interest in traditional knives.

So the Norton economy is ok? That's the only stone I have found.
 
Oh I have a Smith arkansa stone and a Smith sharpening set. The arkansa stone does fine for keeping an edge, but as soon as some of the modern steels get just a little dull it takes a while for me to bring them back. I've just wanted a good two sided stone for a while now, because I've just wanted to get into a more "traditional" way of sharpening long before my interest in traditional knives.

So the Norton economy is ok? That's the only stone I have found.

Norton's Economy in SiC should be fine for these (they used to have an equivalent in aluminum oxide; haven't seen or tried that stone). Last time I was at Sears, a few weeks ago, I noticed they had one that also looked identical, with Sears' own branding. The Norton SiC-equivalent stones I mentioned from Ace hardware also include a 4" x 1-3/4" x 5/8" stone that appears identical in composition to the larger Norton stone (I'd bet they're even made by Norton, for Ace Hardware). That 4" stone is, to me, almost perfect for traditional-sized folders like these; very comfy used in the palm of the hand, while sitting on the porch on a nice day. :)


David
 
Thanks.
Has anyone experienced blade play in their newer stockmans? I just checked mine and all blades have side to side play. I expected some, but the clip has quite a bit. You can hear it "tick" as it hits the liners. I just don't know if I'm expecting to much coming from the modern folders, which I would've deemed any play absolutely unacceptable. Is there a simple way to fix this?
 
Thanks.
Has anyone experienced blade play in their newer stockmans? I just checked mine and all blades have side to side play. I expected some, but the clip has quite a bit. You can hear it "tick" as it hits the liners. I just don't know if I'm expecting to much coming from the modern folders, which I would've deemed any play absolutely unacceptable. Is there a simple way to fix this?

If the 'tick' is only heard when the blades are closed and some light pressure is exerted into the side of the blade, I wouldn't worry about that; between the thin blades and the tight spacing in the handle, the flex of the blade is often enough to make the tip deflect and touch the liner. If the 'play' is in the pivot itself, and you can actually see the movement in the pivot with the blade open, then it may be enough cause to seek a replacement, as I see it.

There's almost always a little bit of curvature or bend in these thin traditional blades also, which might position the tip closer to a liner when closed, and pushing lightly against the side of the blade might make it touch the liner momentarily. If the blade isn't actually hanging up against an adjacent blade or the liner, or if it's not slowing or impeding the closing snap, I'd personally not worry about it.


David
 
Sappy,

Congrats on your Case Stockman.

Ref the blade play. Is this in the open or closed position? If open and they have play I'd be returning that one. If you mean closed? Are you pushing on the closed blades or something of that sort?

Pics! :)
 
It's when open. I think I'm going to try and squeeze it with a vice and try and hammer the pin with a nail punch, since I don't have a ball peen hammer. I don't care if I mess up the cosmetics. I just really want to get rid of some of the play.
 
It's up to you, but personally since it's a new knife I'd send it back and just have another shipped. In the long run that's what you are entitled to and you should be happy with your knife.
 
It's up to you, but personally since it's a new knife I'd send it back and just have another shipped. In the long run that's what you are entitled to and you should be happy with your knife.

That's what I'd do as well. Best chance to make it right, is when the knife is new. The large Case stockman ('75 pattern) is usually very solid. It's my favorite Case pattern, and I have at least a half-dozen of them. No play in any of them; if I had come across one that was loose, I'd be quick to replace it and never look back.


David
 
Well I ended up choosing to try and fix it on my own, and it went great. The clip and sheepsfoot are solid and the spey has just a touch of side to side which I may address later. Now all that's left is for me is to polish the bolsters. So now I can get back to enjoying this wonderful knife.
 
I just put them up in the new traditional additions thread. There's no detailed pic of the bolsters since I used my phone, but rest assured, they're pretty banged up. I'm working them with the 220 grit paper now since that's the highest I've got.
 
Well I ended up choosing to try and fix it on my own, and it went great. The clip and sheepsfoot are solid and the spey has just a touch of side to side which I may address later. Now all that's left is for me is to polish the bolsters. So now I can get back to enjoying this wonderful knife.

I just put them up in the new traditional additions thread. There's no detailed pic of the bolsters since I used my phone, but rest assured, they're pretty banged up. I'm working them with the 220 grit paper now since that's the highest I've got.

It's good to see you're not afraid to dive in and fix things like this. I think that's a big part of truly 'owning' a knife. Glad to hear it's apparently worked out. :thumbup:

Some 800-2000 grit or higher wet/dry paper should get the bolsters looking pretty good, perhaps followed with some Flitz/Simichrome polishing.


David
 
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