Cedar?

Very nice!

With some sort of finish it should be fine. I rehandled a knife with a scrap 2x2 that I'm assuming is Fir, which is pretty soft, but other than imprints from my ring, it's holding up just fine, even for fishing, but I sealed it with linseed oil and pine pitch.
 
Well I think I would leave it plain, a coating or stabilization won't make cedar any harder or dent resistent. Like you said HD if something happens to them, changem out. And you could put a notch in the handle and make another cedar dowel and the knife would make a base for a fire/bow drill. I see pics of you working on the pharm and I think by using it it would finish well with several coats of sweat and the oil from your skin. Pat
 
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hollowdweller said:
Not sure how it will hold up but I had this Bushcraft blade that I put too thin scales on so I thought I'd change the scales. Tried this cedar. We'll see. I think I maybe need to put some sort of coating on it but I like the way it looks.

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Very pretty, HD!

REmember this one?

I rehandled this HI Gool knife in ceder from an ancient fencepost I found here on the property. I coated it in superglue.

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Andy
 
Sorry to break into your thread here HD, but I need to let you know that I inadvertently put the wrong month down in the itinerary for our Grand Canyon trip. The trip runs from Nov. 3 through Nov. 7, not October as originally stated in my itinerary.

BTW, that's a nice bushcraft you built for yourself. :thumbup:
 
Very nice HD, by any chance would you know where I could find bushcraft styled blanks for cheap?
 
use some Pentacryl to fill the cells and pores of the cedar, then tung oil the outside and buff with 0000 steel wool.
 
Hey maybe it'll get dinged and take on character like old pine floors. I really like those above all other flooring. You may be onto something HD.
 
A coating will not give any significant dent resistance on soft wood but stabilization forces resin deep inot the structure of the wood and makes it a new substance. Done properly it is roughly the same as the process used in Micarta and G-10. The wood is no more the same wood you started with than Micarta is still a pile on canvas or paper.
 
An epoxy based resin will bond the pourous wood fibres together. This matrix gives you a thick, hard outer crust depending on penetration.
I used Western Red Cedar extensively while working on this boat. It's surface hardness excelled for mounting pads and stuff. When you run in a screw you can feel the 'bite' change, even with predrilling. A lot of new-tech on this boat so we had to fab a lot of stuff - couldn't believe I was getting paid to do it !

Gougeon Bros is a manufacturer and they test and publish what they say are impartial results. My experience has shown that their products (West System) are good enough and consistent enough I'll cut them some slack. The tech data's under 'Product Information'.

The CPES I mentioned was designed to do exactly this job: give you a surface with enough structural integrity that you can sister other pieces to it to shore it up, regardless of the condition of the core.

Sorry HD - couldn't help myself, lol.:D
 
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