Challenge Cokebottle Challenge

KnifeHead

KnifeHead

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Apr 5, 2006
Messages
5,549
Wouldn't you like to make a great old slip joint knife you have seen but don't have the pattern? How about trying this out and let me know it works. If there is interest, we'll see if we can come up with more "challenges".

cokebottle-drawing1.jpg


This is the same cokebottle pattern that T.Bose makes except Tony makes it even better with "Bose flair". You can see the old Challenge Cutl. Co. knife next to a recent T.Bose Ivory Cokebottle. The links below have more images of the Bose knife and the old knife for you to "chicken eye".

*** The Bose cokebottle blade and spring are made of 5/32" ATS-34. I'm going to guess that the liners are at least .040" 410SS and the bolsters are 5/32". I will post a correction if I guessed wrong.

tbosecokebottle5.jpg



http://boseknives.com/tbosecokebottle/tbosecokebottle1.jpg
http://boseknives.com/tbosecokebottle/tbosecokebottle2.jpg
http://boseknives.com/tbosecokebottle/tbosecokebottle3.jpg
http://boseknives.com/tbosecokebottle/tbosecokebottle4.jpg
http://boseknives.com/tbosecokebottle/challenge-cokebottle1.jpg
http://boseknives.com/tbosecokebottle/challenge-cokebottle2.jpg
http://boseknives.com/tbosecokebottle/challenge-cokebottle3.jpg
http://boseknives.com/tbosecokebottle/challenge-cokebottle4.jpg
http://boseknives.com/tbosecokebottle/cokebottle-drawing1.jpg
http://boseknives.com/tbosecokebottle/cokebottle-drawing2.jpg
 
OK I think Im up for the challenge. Is the drawing dead on or do I need to tweek it some?
 
Kerry: I'll try:thumbup: Will be my 4th sliplock:eek: :eek: How do Tony and you round the bolsters so nicely? Is it all freehand and then elbow grease or do you have some sort of jig to do most of the hogging?
 
What's the thickness of the blade and spring?

And the curves in the handle wouldn't happen to be the right size for an 8" contact wheel, would they? :p

Mike
 
Bruce Bump said:
OK I think Im up for the challenge. Is the drawing dead on or do I need to tweek it some?
Click to expand...

It doesn't mater how dead on the pattern, tweeking is always required. It's pretty close, I always use the pattern as a starting point.
 
I printed out the pattern and its only 3.75" closed. I kind of like it this small if I was going to carry it. The original is 5 3/8" closed?
 
John L said:
Kerry: I'll try:thumbup: Will be my 4th sliplock:eek: :eek: How do Tony and you round the bolsters so nicely? Is it all freehand and then elbow grease or do you have some sort of jig to do most of the hogging?
Click to expand...

Jigs!! Oh now I will just forget you ever said that. :D I personally havent made one of these yet but I can tell you that Tony does this shaping all by hand on his Burr King grinders.
 
Bruce Bump said:
I printed out the pattern and its only 3.75" closed. I kind of like it this small if I was going to carry it. The original is 5 3/8" closed?
Click to expand...

Yep. I put the 1" scale on there so folks can scale it up or down on a copier till the scale is 1".

Yea, the full sized one is a bigole pocket full of suspender stretchers. :D
 
Kerry Hampton said:
Yep. I put the 1" scale on there so folks can scale it up or down on a copier till the scale is 1".

Yea, the full sized one is a bigole pocket full of suspender stretchers. :D
Click to expand...

If I dont buy suspenders Im afraid I would develop "plumbers crack" :D
 
MSCantrell said:
What's the thickness of the blade and spring?

And the curves in the handle wouldn't happen to be the right size for an 8" contact wheel, would they? :p

Mike
Click to expand...

I just mic'd it and the blade is .140". The radiuses are waaaayyyy bigger than 8" and closer to 14".
 
whats wrong with plumbers crack?????? its runs on my dads side of the family and hes a plumber. i used to be one but i learned how to wear a belt and tuck in my shirt. HEHEHEHEHE!!!! in about a year ill try that design.
 
looks neat but im not sure i could work somethign like that
no promisis but i may look into it if i do it will be different
 
The inlay is going to be the biggest challenge for me. How do you guys do it?

What type of steel?
 
Tony is my slip joint hero, he is also very generous with his patterns.

One thing Kerry, I don't need it but did ya'll leave off the pivot point on the handle for the new guys :D

I love old slip joint patterns, I will make one but it will most likely be after the Blade show.
 
Diggerdog said:
Should we set a size between 3 3/4" and 5 3/8" or will it be each to their own? Any time limit?
Click to expand...

Do whatever size you want and take as much time. There's no pressure but what you put on yourself.:)
 
Bruce Bump said:
The inlay is going to be the biggest challenge for me. How do you guys do it?

What type of steel?
Click to expand...

The inlay is probably the hardest part of this unless you make it out of jigged bone or some other uneven surface.

On a smooth surface, Tony has a hardened template that is clamped over the handle material. Then at the mill, he uses a 1/32" end mill to cut the recess. Trace the outside first(up against the template) then freehand the middle parts. The mill will be dulled where it rides against the template but that's ok.

On a rough surface, lay the shield you are going to use on the bone and scribe the outline. Then, use a small chase or chisel to cut out the recess. I made my tiny chisel out of 1/8" O-1 rod and put a golf ball on it for a handle.
 
sunfishman said:
One thing Kerry, I don't need it but did ya'll leave off the pivot point on the handle for the new guys :D
Click to expand...

Look at the #1 post up there and find the drawing2 link at the bottom. That shows the pivot point. Way to watch ;)
 
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