Chamfered edges?

Kenneth F Huls

Kenneth F Huls

Joined
Jul 11, 2012
Messages
982
So as I posted in another thread, I got around to the inevitable and stripped my awesome HOG Badger. Not only was it a perfect finish underneath, but it revealed what others already no doubt knew - chamfered edges all around! No need to meltdown anything - no sharp edges anywhere! I think this is the coolest!

Got me to wondering, are other models chamfered, or is this something new and different? I have not noticed it in any photos before and my other Busses surely don't have this treatment (admittedly I have a small collection of a dirty dozen keepers!).

Please pardon the horrible iPhone pics!IMG_1023.jpgIMG_1022.jpg
 
RobStanley said:
This is done on a lot of Swamp Rat blades. It's a cool finish for sure.
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Thanks for the quick and informative response, Rob! I did not know that (obviously!). Interesting that it is seen on the Kin and not on the Busses. Especially since it is so fantastic! Great machining work and detail, and smooths out the spine while still being able to catch a spark off it. Nice! :) My only Kin is/was a Ratmandu and I did not notice it on that knife.
 
Kenneth F Huls said:
Thanks for the quick and informative response, Rob! I did not know that (obviously!). Interesting that it is seen on the Kin and not on the Busses. Especially since it is so fantastic! Great machining work and detail, and smooths out the spine while still being able to catch a spark off it. Nice! :) My only Kin is/was a Ratmandu and I did not notice it on that knife.
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I remember it being on the 'Rodent' series. Particularly the larger models such as the Rodent 7 and 9. Here's a 9, and you can clearly see the chamfering on the finger guard. It also runs the entire length of the spine, and on the butt.

tumblr_ptmv51nD1h1siuc9oo1_1280.jpg
 
Rob comes through with irrefutable proof! Nice :thumbsup:

Yes, great pic as you can see the chamfers all around (plus, it is just epic!).

So this begs the question - why not do this all the time?!
 
I knew it!

So I went back and took a look at the initial announcement/release pics and guess what - NO chamfers!

Do all the delivered HOG Badgers have them?

This is a true mystery (well, to me at least!).
 
Thanks for adding that, MacLaren. I am becoming aware that it is seen, but somewhat elusive (or so it would seem). I don't see a down side to it and wish it were more prevalent as it really softens the corners and can't be that hard to program to do it (I am no machinist or engineer, however, and might be incorrect on that). Accomplished pretty much a meltdown without the expensive or time-consuming handwork.

This is one reason I love stripping coated blades. So much cheaper and you never know what you are gonna find - and what I do find has always been good!

OnceBitten, thank you for the compliment on her. Very kind! I will attach a badly taken overall pic here. I used Citristrip this time (first time I have tried it). It took 2.5 hours IMG_1019.jpg in the bath to do the job well, as opposed to less time with a more harsh product. Though it took a while, the fumes were not nearly so noxious as past strippers I have used (actually smells nice!) and using it caused me less health concerns as I did not feel like I needed to wear a SCUBA outfit to use it safely! I tried to coat the blade and wait 30-60 minutes as directed on the bottle and here on this site, but that did not cause much effect at all. So I reverted to a full immersion bath as usual, left it another 90 minutes, and the coating all sloughed off very easily with the exception of just a few tiny stubborn spots. I do not use a brass or bronze brush or a razor blade, etc, to help get the job done as it can scratch up the decarb, which is a "patina" that I particularly prize in tool appearance and utility (heck, I would pay a little for that finish!). Rather, I bathe 'em until the coating sloughs off easily with a push from a wooden paint stir stick. Stubborn spots come off with a bit of elbow grease using the stir stick, too, as long as the bath had been long enough. I hope you have better luck at some point!
 
The TGLB had really nicely rounded edges on the spine, guards and pommel. I had a beautiful Custom Shop TG14 and the edges were not rounded off, so I never could get that lovin' feeling for it like I had for my TGLB.
 
Kenneth F Huls said:
I knew it!

So I went back and took a look at the initial announcement/release pics and guess what - NO chamfers!

Do all the delivered HOG Badgers have them?

This is a true mystery (well, to me at least!).
Click to expand...
I'm glad your HOG Badger turned out so good! :thumbsup:

I think most (all?) Busse family knives have at least a very slight chamfer on the non-cutting edges. I randomly examined some of my knives, mostly satin or DC finished (because the chamfer might not be visible if it is coated), and all but one definitely had at least a very slight chamfer; one knife I could not tell for sure because of the coating. Some have a very pronounced chamfer, on others it is more moderate, and on some I had to use a magnifying glass to see it. My satin HOG Badger is chamfered, and so is my satin Alpha Dog 6 (the chamfer is not as pronounced as on the HOG Badger). I even looked at an old Basic 5 with the smooth coating (this is the coating that was used before the current crinkle finish was available), and it has chamfered edges; the Basics were the economy line back then.

I'm guessing at least a very slight chamfer is applied to remove any burrs created by cutting and grinding the steel. Some Busse knives have a much more pronounced chamfer that adds to the looks of the knife.
.
 
Kenneth F Huls said:
Thanks for adding that, MacLaren. I am becoming aware that it is seen, but somewhat elusive (or so it would seem). I don't see a down side to it and wish it were more prevalent as it really softens the corners and can't be that hard to program to do it (I am no machinist or engineer, however, and might be incorrect on that). Accomplished pretty much a meltdown without the expensive or time-consuming handwork.

This is one reason I love stripping coated blades. So much cheaper and you never know what you are gonna find - and what I do find has always been good!

OnceBitten, thank you for the compliment on her. Very kind! I will attach a badly taken overall pic here. I used Citristrip this time (first time I have tried it). It took 2.5 hours View attachment 1150902 in the bath to do the job well, as opposed to less time with a more harsh product. Though it took a while, the fumes were not nearly so noxious as past strippers I have used (actually smells nice!) and using it caused me less health concerns as I did not feel like I needed to wear a SCUBA outfit to use it safely! I tried to coat the blade and wait 30-60 minutes as directed on the bottle and here on this site, but that did not cause much effect at all. So I reverted to a full immersion bath as usual, left it another 90 minutes, and the coating all sloughed off very easily with the exception of just a few tiny stubborn spots. I do not use a brass or bronze brush or a razor blade, etc, to help get the job done as it can scratch up the decarb, which is a "patina" that I particularly prize in tool appearance and utility (heck, I would pay a little for that finish!). Rather, I bathe 'em until the coating sloughs off easily with a push from a wooden paint stir stick. Stubborn spots come off with a bit of elbow grease using the stir stick, too, as long as the bath had been long enough. I hope you have better luck at some point!
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You know, I'm pretty sure my Foresaken Battle Mistress has it as well .
 
Thanks for the further info, MacLaren and gk4ever2. Interesting that the Custom Shop TG did not have that treatment whereas the other did. This all seems so random to me. gk4ever2, a lot of what you describe sounds like deburring (as you say) and not what I am calling a true chamfered edge like what is clearly applied to my HOG Badger and no doubt to yours as you state (and again, the chamfers do not appear to be there at all in the initial announcement/release photos). I can totally appreciate the care taken to remove truly sharp edges and that is a plus, but a full chamfer job to me is a whole other level of finish, which I can really appreciate and applaud. My others definitely do not have this treatment, or anything like it for that matter. While some are not as "sharp" on the corners and edges as others, they don't have this.
 
After looking at my coated HOG Badger, I had a feeling those edges were chamfered... thanks for confirmation! Now I really can't wait to get the stripper on it!
 
Can’t confirm from stripping and I’m not home now to take a close look, but I remember thinking that the chamfered edges of the TGA2 were a nice differentiation from the BGTG.
 
I first noticed chamfered corners on Busse with the SHBM. Not all SHBM's but some. This one, which has been Resinguys knife for over 10 years was one of the first I noticed with it after I stripped it and bead blasted it. I have another one that I noticed has this as well. So it wasn't across the board but it was definitely done on some.

z9rfM5D.jpg
 
Cobalt said:
I first noticed chamfered corners on Busse with the SHBM. Not all SHBM's but some. This one, which has been Resinguys knife for over 10 years was one of the first I noticed with it after I stripped it and bead blasted it. I have another one that I noticed has this as well. So it wasn't across the board but it was definitely done on some.

z9rfM5D.jpg
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Cool historical note and info, Cobalt. Thanks. I cannot fathom why some in a model or run would be chamfered and others not. Doesn't makes sense to me, but then there is something kinda nice about these little distinctions and not knowing what you will end up with in the details. Kinda like custom by happenstance!
 
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