Chipped my NMFBM

ExtraBaconPlease

ExtraBaconPlease

Joined
Mar 8, 2016
Messages
2,898
Hey everyone, need a bit of advice please..

I got a new bed and frame yesterday and was going to throw out the old frame when i thought "Why not just grab my mistress and chop this sh!t up?" So, i did. I checked all over for nails before i started chopping and on literally the very last piece of the bed frame, i hit...a hidden nail. Yup. It was just there. For no purpose. Wasn't holding anything together. Just hiding in the wood, waiting for me..I'm still annoyed..

..Anyway, here's the damage. Please give me advice on what you would do to fix it.

5TrRvHQ.jpg


TkG8KXK.jpg


Honestly, it doesn't affect the performance of the knife in any way as I use it for mostly batoning..i'm just upset it happened lol
 
Too bad they didn't keep the original INFI formula with nitrogen and cobalt. That original INFI never chipped like that, you would just have to smooth out a roll. I would love for them to come out with some knives in "INFI-Classic" that used runs of knives made from the original INFI formula with nitrogen and cobalt.
 
Blain said:
Too bad they didn't keep the original INFI formula with nitrogen and cobalt. That original INFI never chipped like that, you would just have to smooth out a roll. I would love for them to come out with some knives in "INFI-Classic" that used runs of knives made from the original INFI formula with nitrogen and cobalt.
Click to expand...

Wait..if the old INFI was better, why did they change it? Is there links/evidence of this?
 
Unless you feel like reprofiling the edge i would just keep using it until it sharpens out. Unless you do a lot of paper slicing I'm not seeing where this would cause a hindrance in regular usage. Especially if you're chopping with it.
 
I will say this,INFI can and will chip. It is far less likely to chip than most other knives on the market, but it will absolutely Chip, especially in contact with steel.
The pictures where you see someone battoning their knife into steel, whether it's a pipe or a similar object, in my opinion it's a totally different force on the knife.
The picture that I posted a few weeks ago of me chopping through a larger tree with my CGFBM,,, there was some old barbed wire nearby. I gave it a pretty light hit, and sure enough I got a microchip on the edge. Now I firmly believe and who knows maybe I will go back and test it, that if I had placed the edge against the wire and slowly tapped it in, I wouldn't have had the same damage.

Either way you can either attempt to fix it yourself or see what Jerry can do for you .
 
Here we go again-Jerry has addressed this before-If your going to make a statement like that have some sort of proof, evidence to back it up-Cheers
Blain said:
Too bad they didn't keep the original INFI formula with nitrogen and cobalt. That original INFI never chipped like that, you would just have to smooth out a roll. I would love for them to come out with some knives in "INFI-Classic" that used runs of knives made from the original INFI formula with nitrogen and cobalt.
Click to expand...
 
ExtraBaconPlease said:
Wait..if the old INFI was better, why did they change it? Is there links/evidence of this?
Click to expand...

Molecular tests that have been done of blades show that the formula was changed sometime in the early 00's. The new steel analysis has current infi testing out as the same formula as the old m-infi. M-infi is still good stuff. However, those who have used knives with both steel types (IE big hogs like Cobalt) will tell you that there was just something magical about the old formula. It was practically impossible to chip (m-infi is pretty chip resistant but not quite as good) kept an edge better / longer, and was slightly more stain / rust resistant.

I had heard that they changed over from infi to m-infi for cost and or qc issues. Maybe they had an issue with one of their suppliers making the original forumla? I don't know, but I do know that those who have extensive experience with both will tell you that there was a difference in performance. They are, after all, two different steal compositions that share the same name.
 
[youtube]dB4wLoso-BY[/youtube]

So this is a Millerbros blade,,made from 5160 if I remember correctly. It's rather thick stock,, .3" I believe
It doesn't take a super steel to baton through steel, I really believe that it's how you do it.
I think that if they had done a direct strike on the steel plate you would have seen serious damage. Again this is all just my speculation and opinion
 
That is a small chip. If it was mine I would sharpen out the original grind. Often the original factory grind is weaker since it is done by machine. They use liquid to cool it off but I still believe that a resharpened edge is stronger. Of course if you send it in, Busse will put a new edge on it. If you do that, get them to put a 20 dps edge on it and you will love it. Or their zero edge.
 
rcb2000 said:
[youtube]dB4wLoso-BY[/youtube]

So this is a Millerbros blade,,made from 5160 if I remember correctly. It's rather thick stock,, .3" I believe
It doesn't take a super steel to baton through steel, I really believe that it's how you do it.
I think that if they had done a direct strike on the steel plate you would have seen serious damage. Again this is all just my speculation and opinion
Click to expand...

Don't they use "Z-tuff" or "Z-wear" or something?
 
Blain said:
Don't they use "Z-tuff" or "Z-wear" or something?
Click to expand...
I was waiting for that question, in the very beginning no. I remember because I thought that their prices were a little high for 5160. They have now switched over to 3V and z-wear.
Still impressive for 5160
 
I've larger chips in my LC and sharpened them out with the Edge Pro.
 
So who knows which steel that test was done with. If it was 5160, I would expect more edge deformation.
 
oh and if you don't think m-infi is tough, here is a series of videos of a destruction test. in it's size range nothing matched it. The FBM they tested did even better. I tested a modern infi blade earlier this year by batoning cement nails. It did incredibly well. Busse repaired it even though I did not expect them to since I purposely tried to break it. My stupidity and Busse still honored it. What more could you ask.

[video=youtube;jwcRSU0R8kE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwcRSU0R8kE[/video]

The old formula is gone, but I certainly do not believe that busse would ever sacrifice quality. So modern infi is easily as tough as old and who knows may even be tougher.
 
rcb2000 said:
I will say this,INFI can and will chip. It is far less likely to chip than most other knives on the market, but it will absolutely Chip, especially in contact with steel.
The pictures where you see someone battoning their knife into steel, whether it's a pipe or a similar object, in my opinion it's a totally different force on the knife.
The picture that I posted a few weeks ago of me chopping through a larger tree with my CGFBM,,, there was some old barbed wire nearby. I gave it a pretty light hit, and sure enough I got a microchip on the edge. Now I firmly believe and who knows maybe I will go back and test it, that if I had placed the edge against the wire and slowly tapped it in, I wouldn't have had the same damage.
Click to expand...

I completely agree. I've hit nails before when batoning and the damage was far less (not on this knife but it was INFI). I am 100% sure it chipped because i was chopping.

VashHash said:
Unless you feel like reprofiling the edge i would just keep using it until it sharpens out. Unless you do a lot of paper slicing I'm not seeing where this would cause a hindrance in regular usage. Especially if you're chopping with it.
Click to expand...

Like i said -- "it doesn't affect the performance of the knife in any way as I use it for mostly batoning..i'm just upset it happened lol" -- I'll just keep using her like i normally would

Cobalt said:
That is a small chip. If it was mine I would sharpen out the original grind. Often the original factory grind is weaker since it is done by machine. They use liquid to cool it off but I still believe that a resharpened edge is stronger. Of course if you send it in, Busse will put a new edge on it. If you do that, get them to put a 20 dps edge on it and you will love it. Or their zero edge.
Click to expand...

I sharpen by hand so sharpening the original grind would take me far too long. I will just keep using it as i normally would, one day i will send it back to the factory for a spa treatment and zero edge :)
 
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