Chippy steels

Larrin said:
ESEE 1095 is so soft it just deforms:
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I feel this can't be overstated.

Larrin said:

Any knifemaker can make a steel brittle through bad heat treating. Despite their reputation for ease in heat treating, simple steels are the easiest to overheat and make brittle.

Geometry is most important for a knife's resistance to chipping or breaking, of course. A thin knife will chip even if it is made with unobtanium. A sharpened prybar won't break even if it is made with brittle garbage. It is in the regime of optimizing for performance where things matter. The more optimal steel choice in terms of hardness and toughness will handle the thinner geometry and therefore cut better as well.
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Excellent post.
 
Shuya said:
Funny thing is, the only hard chipping knife I had encountered was on a bow making course where some dude wrecked his D2 Scandi blade (cant remember the brand) to the point where he has chips of 1-2mm all over the blade from scraping the bark off.
I had a 14C28N blade from Casstrom, no problem on the very same task.

According to that chart, 1095 should be prone to chips, my 4 Esee blades disagree on that. No matter what stupididy I throw at them, they have never failed me.
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D2 is very chippy steel, prone to pitting too
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Funny, I haven't chipped D2 yet....

I've chipped 3V, Cruwear, flat out Broke A2, maybe 80crv2 with chips?







Wispy thin, sushi grade edges of Hard Cruwear being pounded through hard, knotty pine knots.
This edge was so thin and sharp, it actually felt good going into your finger....haha. idk if I've ever seen an edge That sharp before, or since.


I believe Anything can get ruined if you try hard enough.....(Yup, I'm a dumbass, so you don't Have to be) 😂

*Edit to add.... I'm Lousy at marketing, haha.... This knife is now free, if you sign up to Win it.... In my Give Away link below
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80crv2 with chips? Blasphemy!!

L LostCause , is the Peltonen one of those differentially heat treated versions? I've never owned one but that's the third time I've heard of that knife failing which is really weird because I've put my Lauri blades through so much abuse, love that Krupp 80crv2 and have always admired Lauri's heat treat.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
80crv2 with chips? Blasphemy!!
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I'm almost as bad as "Joe"

-thin, wonky edges, drunk, wailing at the top of my lungs, Chopping nails, and banding, and skids, & Lord knows what else?

(they were very small/minor dings) I was just being theatrical and mostly joking... ;)
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
80crv2 with chips? Blasphemy!!

L LostCause , is the Peltonen one of those differentially heat treated versions? I've never owned one but that's the third time I've heard of that knife failing which is really weird because I've put my Lauri blades through so much abuse, love that Krupp 80crv2 and have always admired Lauri's heat treat.
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It is just the one you can get on that finnish webstore L (not saying name) so I have no idea how they heat treated it, but whatever they did - it didn't end up good.
 
LostCause said:
It is just the one you can get on that finnish webstore L (not saying name) so I have no idea how they heat treated it, but whatever they did - it didn't end up good.
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I'm not sure how they achieved a "differential hardening" on 80CrV2 but if they did it by edge quenching (likely), which is not a very good idea to begin with, it's not surprising that the results are subpar. Edge quenching a steel like 80CrV2 is even less of a good idea.
 
Just take a look at the steel victorinox uses, not a super steel by any means but stays relevant through all this static AND is a very high performer, I sacrificed two saks by wacking edges together, barely any Knicks
Solid stuff
 
J. Doyle said:
I'm not sure how they achieved a "differential hardening" on 80CrV2 but if they did it by edge quenching (likely), which is not a very good idea to begin with, it's not surprising that the results are subpar. Edge quenching a steel like 80CrV2 is even less of a good idea.
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I don't know if they do that on the Peltonen or not, but I do know Lauri who makes the blades used in that knife does offer progessively tempered versions of their blades.

Their regular 80crv2 is around 59hrc and I've used it extensively with zero chipping.
 
The only knife I chipped when using correctly (no batoning, chopping down trees, jamming it into car hoods, etc.) was my Kershaw knife that was one of the largest of the Ken Onion series of the Leek, Scallion, etc. I waited and waited to find one and paid a premium for the S110V, the only "super steel" knife I ever bought, and 15 or so years ago there was nothing more super.

I finally got an edge on it, and it got two little tiny chips, one about the size of a head of a pin and on about half that someway during very light use. At that time I was moving towards the black hole of chasing the super steels, but that cured me. I took half a day to carefully sharpen out about 90% of the chips, and it happened again. I tossed it in the box with the other "meh" knives I own and haven't carried it since.

*EDIT* Oh yeah, lesson learned about "super steels" and their hype. Give it ten years and the newest steel with either be gone, or the newest bottom line of acceptibility.
 
I hate chippy knives. So much easier to bring it back with the strop if it’s just a little dull. My S30V YoJimbo will chip if you look at it wrong (very thin BTE).
It’s a great design tho, if I had to do it over I would’ve just got the CruWear version for a little more $$
 
J. Doyle said:
I'm not sure how they achieved a "differential hardening" on 80CrV2 but if they did it by edge quenching (likely), which is not a very good idea to begin with, it's not surprising that the results are subpar. Edge quenching a steel like 80CrV2 is even less of a good idea.
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They use induction to achieve the different hardness on edge/spine
 
tony281sc2 said:
I hate chippy knives. So much easier to bring it back with the strop if it’s just a little dull. My S30V YoJimbo will chip if you look at it wrong (very thin BTE).
It’s a great design tho, if I had to do it over I would’ve just got the CruWear version for a little more $$
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My Yojimbo in S30V sits on my display shelf, after chipping the tip and the effort it took to correct its just not worth carrying worrying about damaging that investment more. Like you I should have got the Cruwear one.
 
tony281sc2 said:
I hate chippy knives. So much easier to bring it back with the strop if it’s just a little dull. My S30V YoJimbo will chip if you look at it wrong (very thin BTE).
It’s a great design tho, if I had to do it over I would’ve just got the CruWear version for a little more $$
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Why not try to slightly reprofile it on benchstones or some other system to get a tougher edge?
 
Years ago (2009/2010) , I had some S30V blades from Benchmade that were prone to chipping. But that was in the early days of S30V so maybe they just had to adjust the heat treat.
 
tony281sc2 said:
I hate chippy knives. So much easier to bring it back with the strop if it’s just a little dull. My S30V YoJimbo will chip if you look at it wrong (very thin BTE).
It’s a great design tho, if I had to do it over I would’ve just got the CruWear version for a little more $$
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My Yojimbo 2 was the same way. I swear it was made from CPM-Ruffles. I have a Cruwear one now, no issues.
 
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