Chisel Grind...Why?

In the case of removing limbs from a still-living tree it's not feasible to move the workpiece. :D

Have a link to the review you're referencing?

At any rate, the purpose of posting the diagram (both in original context and in this thread) was to show the method by which flush cuts can be achieved with a double-beveled blade. In fact, in some circumstances such a method may be the only viable one due to clearance issues, even with a chisel grind (that is to say, that the beveled face would have to be against the work to lift the handle above and away from the target surface.)
 
[video]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OHOjv2-NqX0[/video]

I'm not going to try and make the fool's argument for using a chisel grind of limbing. That's what my scandinavian forest axe is for. :thumbup:
 
Thanks for the vdo.
I love the chisel grind because why waste all that good metal?
:D
 
chuxwan said:
[video]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OHOjv2-NqX0[/video]

I'm not going to try and make the fool's argument for using a chisel grind of limbing. That's what my scandinavian forest axe is for. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Here's a note on rotation of a blade relative to the handle, on the same nata.

[video=youtube;JSDT_tGnQSU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSDT_tGnQSU&feature=iv&src_vid=OHOjv2-NqX0&annotation_id=annotation_68875[/video]

Showing limbing work with the nata.

[video=youtube;-4lDCmRYF_M]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4lDCmRYF_M[/video]

For the sort of work that he shows in that video I usually use a billhook or chopping machete for. A thin-bitted hand axe or boy's axe does a decent job as well, of course.

Evidently, though, I'll need to do a video showing canted cuts with a double beveled tool.
 
Ok lol. This is just silly as could be. Chisle grinds are for one purpose. Wood cutting. This is all gimmicky hype to stoke the fire to have ppl buy another knife by the same guys (in any scenario) . Wood. Wood wood wood. Any sharp object can cut straight or "power through" whatever. Ppl buying knives should know how to sharpen them and not need to have their hands held for ease of use.
 
jeffu87 said:
Ok lol. This is just silly as could be. Chisle grinds are for one purpose. Wood cutting. This is all gimmicky hype to stoke the fire to have ppl buy another knife by the same guys (in any scenario) . Wood. Wood wood wood. Any sharp object can cut straight or "power through" whatever. Ppl buying knives should know how to sharpen them and not need to have their hands held for ease of use.
Click to expand...
That solves it.

/forum
 
The only chisel ground knife I have is a yanagi, or a sashimi knife.

They're great for cutting protein, especially fish or red meat.

I would, in my uses, see no other use for a chisel grind.

I've seen chisel grinds on pocket knives, would never, ever get one. If I was serving sashimi at a campground, I would simply just bring my yanagi.
 
VnI0ZiL.jpg
 
Actual Japanese woodworking kiridashi’s are insanely good knives when you need absolutely minimal cuts. The flat side doesn’t get in the way and only slight turn makes the knife bite the wood. Kiridashi knives come with bevel on both sides but also with dual grind for general purposes.

Also the flat side can be utilized when making very precise markings on materials with ruler.
 
I have a friend that has a chisel ground sword and we do a lot of target cutting. We both own several different kinds of swords but I do not own a chisel ground sword. The last time we did some cutting he brought it and asked me to cut with it. He said that every time he tried to cut with it it took a hard 70 degree curve as soon as it hit the target and went through and he wound up chopping the stand more than the mats or bottles. So I tried it. It wasn't just him. All of us tried it and all got the same result... 70 degree curve upon impact. The only differentiating factor between that sword and the others was the chisel grind. He swore he'd never buy another one. It's sad because I really love American Kami's stuff but won't buy any because of that grind.
 
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