chisel ground blades

T

TennBlades

Joined
Jan 29, 2008
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15
if this has been posted, please advise, just wondered what are the benefits to a chisel ground blade, (sharpened on one side?) verses a two sided blade?

thanks
 
The biggest advantage that I see like in the Emerson 7 series is the cut it makes. That and the point at which the tanto as in the EKI's case and the main edge meet lends itself to focus much of the energy of the cut on that little point, which maximizes the depth and breadth of the cut imho. Supposedly too it is easier to sharpen but I have not experienced that aspect of the chizel as of yet. Both types of edges seem equally hard or easy to sharpen to me. Depends on the steel hardness along with how the primary edge is ground. I do belive the chizel edge will be a bit stronger cause it has pretty much a full thickness behind the edge. Hope all this helps and it ain't gospel, just my thoughts on packin a 7 for years. keepem sharp
 
The chisel grind actually leaves LESS support behind the cutting edge. A single bevel at 15° yields a total of 15°. A double bevel, each side at 15° yields a total of 30°. It's simple geometry.
 
I had a Protech TR-1 that has a chisel grind. I could never get used to the edge for cutting, so even though I really like everything else about the knife, I recently traded it off. As suggested earlier, YMMV.
all da best,
rats...
 
i have this habit of finishing sentences when I read thread titles. like "the best ECD large folder is???" in my head I think 710.
When i read your thread title I finished it with "suck".
 
thanks for the responses, i am an owner of an emerson cqc7, but so far prefer the blades of my afck collection, (non chisel) but hate to carry them due to their limited availability.
 
TennBlades said:
thanks for the responses, i am an owner of an emerson cqc7, but so far prefer the blades of my afck collection, (non chisel) but hate to carry them due to their limited availability.
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I'd like to get an Emerson myself, but I'd have to send it off like member Lucien did and have it reprofiled.
 
I have an Emerson with the primary grind saber ground and the edge is chisel ground. As far as I'm able to tell, the chisel grind would just make it a little more difficult to cut precise lines because the sides have different angles. This isn't as noticeable on mine because it's just the edge as oppose to the primary grind being chisel ground.

In terms of cutting easier and deeper, I don't see how that matters as much as the overall angle on the edge and primary grind. I would imagine that a more acute angled edge and primary grind would be easier to slice, regardless of grind type. Grind type IMHO would really be for edge support.

Generally speaking, convex is good for heavy chopping because more metal is behind the edge. Hollow or full flat is good for lighter work and deep slicing because edge deformation is less likely due to the nature of the work intended for the blade, and there's less resistance because the type of grind allows a thinner angle for a comparable sized (primary grind) full convex blade.

I personally don't see much of a practical use for the chisel grind the way I currently understand it. I can be wrong though. In either case, I still like my Emerson...
 
off topic, but why did Benchmade discontinue the AFCK, i'm new to this forum, but it seems like a favorite.
 
That accute juncture or focal point of where the tanto and pirmary edge meet lends itself to cutting deeper just cause it is so easy to focus the energy of the cut on that point. An accute angle versus a straight angle, well I think the accute angle will win every time as for cutting ability as long as both edges where they meet are sharp. That seems to me to be the case when I cut something with a conventional blade and a tanto. That point wants to just go deep. Just my impressions again. But I have done cutting tests on old bike leathers and an old carhart. With a nice sharp tanto blade it just wants to transmit more energy to that point. Kind of like a punch sort of. Spreading the energy of the punch across the knuckles of the hand just doesn't deliver the power as when focused on the first two knuckles. keepem sharp
 
I'm guessing that it's for the same reason any item gets discontinued, it didn't sell enough when it was in production. Knives won't sell for a myriad of reasons. But it's not always, because the knife wasn't a good one. As a matter of fact, I'm pretty sure that's rarely the case with a lot of the quality makers. The market determines what survives.

Now what I've also seen, especially on these forums is that a lot of models aren't really appreciated as much as they after they're discontinued. For one, the chances of collectors value usually rise and I also suspect that there's a fear of loss just because it's no longer being produced.
 
longbow said:
That accute juncture or focal point of where the tanto and pirmary edge meet lends itself to cutting deeper just cause it is so easy to focus the energy of the cut on that point. An accute angle versus a straight angle, well I think the accute angle will win every time as for cutting ability as long as both edges where they meet are sharp. That seems to me to be the case when I cut something with a conventional blade and a tanto. That point wants to just go deep. Just my impressions again. But I have done cutting tests on old bike leathers and an old carhart. With a nice sharp tanto blade it just wants to transmit more energy to that point. Kind of like a punch sort of. Spreading the energy of the punch across the knuckles of the hand just doesn't deliver the power as when focused on the first two knuckles. keepem sharp
Click to expand...

That may very well be the case with the knife points (tanto vs drop), but does this apply with the chisel grinds? I personally don't know because I've yet to be motivated to do tests. I'm just curious about your experience here.
 
To me the chisel grind & a scandi are similar - they both have BIG bevels that are easy to lay on the stone, and are good grinds that even a novice freehander can get really really sharp. I agree they do not cut everything as well as a very thin bladed knife, but there are some things they cut better - they cut like a chisel great, and are good for cuts where you want to take shavings off of something (trimming plastic or wood). I enjoy having some chisel and scandi grinds around.
 
Kaizen1 said:
...I personally don't see much of a practical use for the chisel grind the way I currently understand it...
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Imagine two axes, one with a double bevel, the other a single bevel (chisel). Take a mighty swing with each and look at the grooves left. The first looks like V, beveled on both sides. The second looks like half of a V or the letter "N" without the left leg, one side beveled, the other perpendicular.

The chisel grind is designed to cut in a plane like with wood chisels, planer blades, paper cutters, etc. As it cuts, the single bevel has a wedge effect tending to push the blade toward the flat side (which has no wedge effect) keeping it flush with the plane surface being cut. The chisel grind is ideal for slicing food items (tomatoes, sushi, etc.) very thinly. The blade would be oriented such that the thin slice being cut off is on the beveled side and the bulk of the item is on the flat side. The flat side is flush against the item being cut all the way to the cutting edge, having no wedge effect. Hope that somewhat explains the practical use of a chisel grind.
 
Zeasor said:
Imagine two axes, one with a double bevel, the other a single bevel (chisel). Take a mighty swing with each and look at the grooves left. The first looks like V, beveled on both sides. The second looks like half of a V or the letter "N" without the left leg, one side beveled, the other perpendicular.

The chisel grind is designed to cut in a plane like with wood chisels, planer blades, paper cutters, etc. As it cuts, the single bevel has a wedge effect tending to push the blade toward the flat side (which has no wedge effect) keeping it flush with the plane surface being cut. The chisel grind is ideal for slicing food items (tomatoes, sushi, etc.) very thinly. The blade would be oriented such that the thin slice being cut off is on the beveled side and the bulk of the item is on the flat side. The flat side is flush against the item being cut all the way to the cutting edge, having no wedge effect. Hope that somewhat explains the practical use of a chisel grind.
Click to expand...

For cooking purposes, I did know that and forgot to mention it in my post. I do agree that it can serve those purposes, but even then those grinds are found more so in Japanese chef knives, and as far as I know aren't predominantly used throughout the industry. So that leads me to believe that maybe style or preference determines whether it would be ideal in that environment. I could be very wrong here.

For the ax example, are we talking about using the exact same overall sized angle (for example, 35 degree inclusive) on both axes?
 
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