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"Cho Creep" & Habaki Style Bolster Revisited...Time For A Change?
- Thread starter Drdan
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2003
- Messages
- 13,182
The Bonecutter, my favorite khuk has zero cho creep, a non habaki bolster, and a slightly curved handle with a nice swell at the butt of the handle.
My 17" Ganga's have the habaki, cho creep and a long thinnner handle.
I think that the straighter handle seems to work better when the blade comes out straight, like it does on the gangas with the habaki and the cho creep and then the blade curves.
However the Bonecutter has a very similar blade to the Ganga but it has the bend kind of as soon as it comes out of the handle. On this, more traditional design of handle with the curve, kind of helps you swing it.
My 17" Ganga's have the habaki, cho creep and a long thinnner handle.
I think that the straighter handle seems to work better when the blade comes out straight, like it does on the gangas with the habaki and the cho creep and then the blade curves.
However the Bonecutter has a very similar blade to the Ganga but it has the bend kind of as soon as it comes out of the handle. On this, more traditional design of handle with the curve, kind of helps you swing it.
kamagong
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2001
- Messages
- 10,940
The habaki bolsters were supposed to make the khukuris fit their scabbards better. It was hoped that the act of drawing the knife would be made easier, and that the blade's appearance would be preserved because of less contact with its scabbard.
The problem is that the sarkis got lazy. They saw the habaki as providing them a shortcut from making tight scabbards. In order to rectify this 'functional' dilemma, HI needs to confront the sarkis.
The problem is that the sarkis got lazy. They saw the habaki as providing them a shortcut from making tight scabbards. In order to rectify this 'functional' dilemma, HI needs to confront the sarkis.
Norm,
I have a few khuks if you turn upside down, the blade will fall out. I don't recall any accelerating to earth in the manner you describe!! LOL. I am not certain at all if this test is the threshold I want in determining 'too loose'.
I use khuks in the field. I want them to come out of their sheaths, and some hiking khuks I want out faster rather than slower. They can't be too tight.
I know what all of you are saying about loose fit though. A khuk should not rattle around in there.
I suppose if a sheath is too tight it can be fixed. My Chitlangi has had the grip of death on it since I got it. It sticks coming out. Some days are better than others; season and weather. I've sanded some but not enough of the wood inside.
I wish you were here in my house now, Norm, because then you and I could look over my khuks and agree upon what is too loose in a sheath.
munk
I have a few khuks if you turn upside down, the blade will fall out. I don't recall any accelerating to earth in the manner you describe!! LOL. I am not certain at all if this test is the threshold I want in determining 'too loose'.
I use khuks in the field. I want them to come out of their sheaths, and some hiking khuks I want out faster rather than slower. They can't be too tight.
I know what all of you are saying about loose fit though. A khuk should not rattle around in there.
I suppose if a sheath is too tight it can be fixed. My Chitlangi has had the grip of death on it since I got it. It sticks coming out. Some days are better than others; season and weather. I've sanded some but not enough of the wood inside.
I wish you were here in my house now, Norm, because then you and I could look over my khuks and agree upon what is too loose in a sheath.
munk
- Joined
- May 18, 1999
- Messages
- 15,395
I agree about the habaki bolsters and the scabbards. The problem with tight or loose scabbards have been around as long as the khukuri though. Even Pala commented on how often he had to adjust his scabbard when he was in the Ghorkas.
Seasons and dryness and humidity does matter and there isn't an easy fix unless you use an alternative scabbard.
The leather sheath on my as forged Chainpuri blade always fits the same.
It might help to soak a somewhat loose scabbard with olive oil until it starts to build up enough to "grab" the blade.
My 18" AK gets real tight when it sets awhile and that's what I used on it before I learned better.
Once it's drawn and resheathed a few times it's okay for a while.
I guess a fellow, or gal, could use varnish or polyethelene or such to tighten the inside of a scabbard, just now thought about that.
Using Neat'sfoot oil or Ballistol will help a bit in loosening the scabbards if they're too tight, anything to relax the tight hold the leather has on the wood.
Seasons and dryness and humidity does matter and there isn't an easy fix unless you use an alternative scabbard.
The leather sheath on my as forged Chainpuri blade always fits the same.
It might help to soak a somewhat loose scabbard with olive oil until it starts to build up enough to "grab" the blade.
My 18" AK gets real tight when it sets awhile and that's what I used on it before I learned better.
Once it's drawn and resheathed a few times it's okay for a while.
I guess a fellow, or gal, could use varnish or polyethelene or such to tighten the inside of a scabbard, just now thought about that.
Using Neat'sfoot oil or Ballistol will help a bit in loosening the scabbards if they're too tight, anything to relax the tight hold the leather has on the wood.
- Joined
- May 5, 1999
- Messages
- 3,065
Mineral oil seeems to work fine, is cheap, and easy to find in the laxative section of the nearest drugstore 
OTOH, Pecard Leather Dressing is the closest thing to a miracle product I know - don't own stock in it, but wish I did!
OTOH, Pecard Leather Dressing is the closest thing to a miracle product I know - don't own stock in it, but wish I did!
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2004
- Messages
- 3,178
Different folks, different strokes. Here's my take on things.
Habaki or non-habaki? Taken by itself, it really doesn't matter to me. I think non-habaki looks a bit nicer. My users do not look nice. My #1 star, the BGRS villager, is downright ugly at this point. It's got patina, scuffs, black rust and a nearly permanent coating of cured pine sap on it. When the sap gets too sticky for my liking I rub it down with dirt. When I have the time, it gets scrubbed with a green scrubby pad and hot water. If I'm out in the woods, water and sand suffice and whatever's left gets wiped off on a pants leg. The wood looks like hell and the steel fittings are beginning to rust. However, it's handy and it holds an edge like nobody's business, and these things are important to me. That, and it's mine, and it looks like it's mine.
Brass? Steel? Doesn't matter. Brass turns green, steel turns red/black. I could care less. Brass probably handles the rain a bit better so that's fine for me.
Cho creep? I'll accept that it's less appealing visually than no creep but I haven't noticed a difference in handling. Like some of the others have said, though...might as well move the cho back and put some more usable edge on the thing, or move it the other way and give us some more handle to hold on to. Either one works for me.
Handle size? I've never had a problem with them being too large. I have had problems with them being too small, and like Nasty said it's a lot easier to subtract wood than to add it. I'd rather that they were too big. Straight or curved? I've got a preference for curved but there's nothing wrong with straight. A well-shaped straight handle is preferable by far to a poorly-shaped curved one. It's a variable, but a small one in the overall picture for me.
Scabbards? I've got loose scabbards, tight scabbards, and a couple of scabbards that're nearly perfect. Loose ones are easy to fix: glue in a shim, or (if you want a better fit to the blade itself) soak that sucker in water and wrap it in some surgical tubing, then let it dry. Tight ones, I haven't had so much luck with. I'd rather that they erred on the loose side simply because it's easier for me to correct. How tight is tight enough? I'm not a martial artist and I don't intend to use my khuks on living things. (I actually find the idea a bit ridiculous, given my particular circumstances.) I don't care if my draw is a bit slow. I do not want one of them leaving its scabbard unless I draw it, however - this is not negotiable. (Same rule for firearms - I always opt for more retention, not less.) I climb hills, crawl through brush, enter and exit vehicles, and occasionally run with a khuk hanging on my belt. It must stay in its scabbard while I'm doing this. I should be able to hold the scabbard upside down and shake it and the khuk should not move; if it passes this test, and I can still draw it without pulling any muscles, it's good. This can be done with most scabbards but it can take a while to fine tune everything. If we're talking about a khuk that gets used frequently, it's worth the effort.
Of course, these are just my opinions. They're only correct if you agree with them.
Habaki or non-habaki? Taken by itself, it really doesn't matter to me. I think non-habaki looks a bit nicer. My users do not look nice. My #1 star, the BGRS villager, is downright ugly at this point. It's got patina, scuffs, black rust and a nearly permanent coating of cured pine sap on it. When the sap gets too sticky for my liking I rub it down with dirt. When I have the time, it gets scrubbed with a green scrubby pad and hot water. If I'm out in the woods, water and sand suffice and whatever's left gets wiped off on a pants leg. The wood looks like hell and the steel fittings are beginning to rust. However, it's handy and it holds an edge like nobody's business, and these things are important to me. That, and it's mine, and it looks like it's mine.
Brass? Steel? Doesn't matter. Brass turns green, steel turns red/black. I could care less. Brass probably handles the rain a bit better so that's fine for me.
Cho creep? I'll accept that it's less appealing visually than no creep but I haven't noticed a difference in handling. Like some of the others have said, though...might as well move the cho back and put some more usable edge on the thing, or move it the other way and give us some more handle to hold on to. Either one works for me.
Handle size? I've never had a problem with them being too large. I have had problems with them being too small, and like Nasty said it's a lot easier to subtract wood than to add it. I'd rather that they were too big. Straight or curved? I've got a preference for curved but there's nothing wrong with straight. A well-shaped straight handle is preferable by far to a poorly-shaped curved one. It's a variable, but a small one in the overall picture for me.
Scabbards? I've got loose scabbards, tight scabbards, and a couple of scabbards that're nearly perfect. Loose ones are easy to fix: glue in a shim, or (if you want a better fit to the blade itself) soak that sucker in water and wrap it in some surgical tubing, then let it dry. Tight ones, I haven't had so much luck with. I'd rather that they erred on the loose side simply because it's easier for me to correct. How tight is tight enough? I'm not a martial artist and I don't intend to use my khuks on living things. (I actually find the idea a bit ridiculous, given my particular circumstances.) I don't care if my draw is a bit slow. I do not want one of them leaving its scabbard unless I draw it, however - this is not negotiable. (Same rule for firearms - I always opt for more retention, not less.) I climb hills, crawl through brush, enter and exit vehicles, and occasionally run with a khuk hanging on my belt. It must stay in its scabbard while I'm doing this. I should be able to hold the scabbard upside down and shake it and the khuk should not move; if it passes this test, and I can still draw it without pulling any muscles, it's good. This can be done with most scabbards but it can take a while to fine tune everything. If we're talking about a khuk that gets used frequently, it's worth the effort.
Of course, these are just my opinions. They're only correct if you agree with them.
I climb hills, crawl through brush, enter and exit vehicles, and occasionally run with a khuk hanging on my belt. It must stay in its scabbard while I'm doing this. I should be able to hold the scabbard upside down and shake it and the khuk should not move; if it passes this test, and I can still draw it without pulling any muscles, it's good. This can be done with most scabbards but it can take a while to fine tune everything. If we're talking about a khuk that gets used frequently, it's worth the effort. >>>>>>> Satori
This is very well said. I have some khuks in sheaths like this. I prefer this for the worst outdoors. But I like a freer fit when I'm with my small sons, so i can pull it faster. (Satori, I want my khuk to get into my hand as soon as possible if a COUGAR is near. Yes folks, munk is paranoid about COUGARS, and ZOMBIES.)
Many forumites make both their blades and sheaths right for them. Making it yours, as Rusty would say.
munk
This is very well said. I have some khuks in sheaths like this. I prefer this for the worst outdoors. But I like a freer fit when I'm with my small sons, so i can pull it faster. (Satori, I want my khuk to get into my hand as soon as possible if a COUGAR is near. Yes folks, munk is paranoid about COUGARS, and ZOMBIES.)
Many forumites make both their blades and sheaths right for them. Making it yours, as Rusty would say.
munk