Choosing a large knife

Spyderco resilience. Since you are on a budget, the resilience is hard to beat. Definitely a contender if looking for a good user.
 
Thanks, for the input so far and definitely keep it coming. I was shying away from the simple carbon steels simply due to Larrin's article on Knife Steel Nerd, even though I know they are the staple for the platform and sufficient for the task. But I should have included the BK-9 on my initial list. I had looked hard at the Skrama a couple of years ago when making a purchase from Varusteleka. I wish I'd have snatched one up then. Shipping and taxes were much better then. It is $84 for shipping, duties, and taxes for an $84 knife now.

I don't think I could justify $500+ for a Busse or the like for my personal use-case, (I have always admired Busse though. A friends dad used to collect them.) but $200-250 is not out of the question and maybe even up to $300 if I feel like the value is there. This is more of a "want" than a "need", too. I have other tools that can serve the role, so I can wait for a deal or to find something on the used market if I can nail down what I'm looking for and what I should probably pass up.
 
Thanks, for the input so far and definitely keep it coming. I was shying away from the simple carbon steels simply due to Larrin's article on Knife Steel Nerd, even though I know they are the staple for the platform and sufficient for the task. But I should have included the BK-9 on my initial list. I had looked hard at the Skrama a couple of years ago when making a purchase from Varusteleka. I wish I'd have snatched one up then. Shipping and taxes were much better then. It is $84 for shipping, duties, and taxes for an $84 knife now.

I don't think I could justify $500+ for a Busse or the like for my personal use-case, (I have always admired Busse though. A friends dad used to collect them.) but $200-250 is not out of the question and maybe even up to $300 if I feel like the value is there. This is more of a "want" than a "need", too. I have other tools that can serve the role, so I can wait for a deal or to find something on the used market if I can nail down what I'm looking for and what I should probably pass up.
Mind linking the article in question?
 
Mind linking the article in question?
Oh, its just the main one where he compares the attributes of the various steels. I just figured with all of the options, someone might have figured out how to economically incorporate a superior steel into their designs. Though, I understand heat treatment is more important, and that many of the steels are not going to be cost effective. But 14C28N or 12C27 seems to be suitable for the application and are cranked out in volume at reasonable prices on smaller knives. Steels like 5160, 52100, AUS-8 and 8Cr13MoV seem to be an improvement over 1095 in this application also. Others like D2 and VG10 give some tradeoffs in toughness for greater gains in edge retention and corrosion resistance and could be an alternative if designed and executed correctly. However, I realize I could be 100% off base and completely wrong, which is why I am here.

 
Oh, its just the main one where he compares the attributes of the various steels. I just figured with all of the options, someone might have figured out how to economically incorporate a superior steel into their designs. Though, I understand heat treatment is more important, and that many of the steels are not going to be cost effective. But 14C28N or 12C27 seems to be suitable for the application and are cranked out in volume at reasonable prices on smaller knives. Steels like 5160, 52100, AUS-8 and 8Cr13MoV seem to be an improvement over 1095 in this application also. Others like D2 and VG10 give some tradeoffs in toughness for greater gains in edge retention and corrosion resistance and could be an alternative if designed and executed correctly. However, I realize I could be 100% off base and completely wrong, which is why I am here.


Lots of good information available through Dr. Larrin, but I would suggest you try not to get too bogged down in the steel types (unless you've got lots of experience and truly specific needs that demand a certain type). You can drive yourself nuts trying to compare and contrast minute details of dozens of steel types to find the "best."

There's plenty of good steels that perform well when treated right and given proper geometry. I recommend you find a design that you like and find the maker or manufacturer who can deliver it in a form you prefer. A good maker/manufacturer will use a steel they think offers the best balance of performance for the price, and you should trust their expertise.

That said, this is a wide hobby and spend your time and funds as you please.
 
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Oh, its just the main one where he compares the attributes of the various steels. I just figured with all of the options, someone might have figured out how to economically incorporate a superior steel into their designs. Though, I understand heat treatment is more important, and that many of the steels are not going to be cost effective. But 14C28N or 12C27 seems to be suitable for the application and are cranked out in volume at reasonable prices on smaller knives. Steels like 5160, 52100, AUS-8 and 8Cr13MoV seem to be an improvement over 1095 in this application also. Others like D2 and VG10 give some tradeoffs in toughness for greater gains in edge retention and corrosion resistance and could be an alternative if designed and executed correctly. However, I realize I could be 100% off base and completely wrong, which is why I am here.

You do indeed have a lot to learn.

Good luck in your knife journey.
 
The challenge is finding the right steel in this price range. I dont like 1095 so I would look for something on the top end of this chart. Or AEB-L for stainless if you can find it in your price range. Again, the Exchange has deals, you just have to keep an eye on it.
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From Knife Steel Nerds
While I am first in line to say Larrins work and tests are absolute invaluable and incredible information...I (and I imagine many others) have not had this kind of result with Kabar's steel (which is 50-110B...close enough to 1095). I've had numerous Beckers over the years that have withstood some outright criminal treatment without so much as a chip or roll, and thats with always thinning the edge considerably as well as convexing it.

I will always vote BK9.

You simply lack experience. And I wish you the best in attaining it.
At least mention something R Root Jr said incorrectly instead of a seemingly passive aggressive "you dont know much" response. It doesn't help anyone learn anything and certainly won't help retain a new member to the forum.
 
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Yeah let's alienate and belittle the new guy. That will work well to bring in new folks to the hobby.:rolleyes:
I wished the guy well and good luck on his knowledge journey. Don't think he needs you pearl clutching on his account.


Not worried about it. Move on.
 
Condor has some options you might like. I own a couple, and handled quite a few since I used to sell them. I haven't seen one that didn't need a bit of work on the edge. The Village Parang and Golok are nice.

I'll add another vote for Becker, too. I've had a Machax and a BK-9 for years and really like them.

Perhaps something from Cold Steel? The Trailmaster is outside your budget, but I think the large drop forged bowie (I can't recall the model) is about $90, a solid chunk of 52100.
 
I've been keeping an eye out for a cheap, used Buck 108 Compadre Froe for a while and I've never seen one come up. Cooincidentally, I just purchased one a few days ago on the bay. It was a great deal on a new one. I do a lot of hammock backpacking and I wanted something to pair with a folding saw for delimbing and batoning so I can leave the axe at home. It seems like the perfect tool for the job. If I get a chance to put it to use soon I'll report back.
 
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