My thoughts exactly.
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Recommendation? Choosing my first Bushcraft, Camping, Hiking knife
- Thread starter sac36555
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My thoughts exactly.
Man o man, the Selkirk frustrates me.
I really love Buck. I've owned and used Bucks since the mid 70s and I'm still a Buck newbie compared to others. I still carry a 110 most days.
But honestly, Buck is a hunting knife company with a dash of a fighting/tactical added. They wouldn't get the needs of a bushcraft/suvival/camp knives if Ron Hood himself dropped designs on them.
Ron Hood collaborated on a series of survival knives in 5160, the Punk, Thug and Hoodlum and gave them full flat grinds. Buck produced a low-cost variant of the Thug in 420HC called the Reaper but they applied the Buck touch and gave it a hollow grind and a baton eating false edge, both of which look sexy in blister pack but that perform horribly. You can find YouTube videos of Reapers with blown out edges, which you can expect from battoning knives with thin hollow grinds I think.
Then a few years ago, they came out with their Compadre series of camp knives and they gave them full exposed tangs but again, used hollow grinds. (sigh)
And then came the Selkirk, a knife pitched as a bushcraft survival knife. Finally, they have a production full flat grind knife (good) but (a) its imported and lacks the BOS heat treat and (b) they gave it a sharp "guard" transition from grip to blade, which completely destroys the ability to comfortably make draw cuts or choke up on the blade. Sadly, I think the Selkirk is a knife that is made to be sold in that it looks like a bushcraft/survival knife but isn't really a user.
When I look at the Bucklite Max series, which is full tang with a decent rubberized nylon over grip and is sold for less than $30 and I look at the Rood Hood Punk and Thug it just kills me. Buck could easily produce an American Mora by replicating the Punk and Thug with full flat grinds like Hood specified and Mora/Bucklite Max style grip and in BOS heat treated 420HC in the sub $40 range. And instead we get the Selkirk which won't even pass a "will it work with basic wood working holds" test.
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If you have the means go directly to the Fällkniven F1 in Lam Cos.
Problem solved, excellent edge retention, great toughness, top of ergonomic handle, Maintenance free.
And there are 3rd parties sheaths available that are Amazing.
Problem solved, excellent edge retention, great toughness, top of ergonomic handle, Maintenance free.
And there are 3rd parties sheaths available that are Amazing.
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bikerector
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Good feedback. I've never held a selkirk but thought the price looked fair for what you get but sounds like that's not the case. I know there was a lot of recommendations to get some better designs for woods use over in the buck forum for new products.
I've heard hollow grinds is a bit of a buck thing and something of a trademark. They do make great hollow grinds but there is limitations to the grind, just like any other. I've used a 119 a but for bushcraft but make sure to have something else for serious wood processing as it is not good for batoning, between the thin swedge and hollow grind. It can do light batoning just like any quality knife but I wouldn't expect to baton a quard of tinder with it, over it's lifetime like I might with something designed more for the task. Mine if 5160 so, in theory, it should hold up a little better to mild abuse.
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Terava Jaakarapuukko. I prefer carbon steel for this use, but I believe they make the same knife in stainless also. Comes on both 4.7 in, and 5.5 in length, same price. Do a search as I don't think I am allowed to post a link to the website where they are sold.
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I'm in Napa. Only about an hour away. We could make this happen.
bikerector
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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I love this sentiment and another reason I like this forum.
aleforme
Gold Member
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This ^ You can get the 140m in Carbon or Stainless and the optional leather sheath it very nice.
If you have the means go directly to the Fällkniven F1 in Lam Cos.
Problem solved, excellent edge retention, great toughness, top of ergonomic handle, Maintenance free.
And there are 3rd parties sheaths available that are Amazing.
Why doesn't Buck make something like this in 420HC for $30? Put this next to a Bucklite Max hunting knife.
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Best choice for a start!
Don't forget a sharpening stone and a leatherstrop loaded with Autosol or similiar.
When You feel comfortable in using/sharpening the Mora, You are ready to choose whatever knife that may catch Your fancy.
A few of mine:
Aurora A2
F1 rehandled
Mora 311 rehandled
Hess Tiburon
Regards
Mikael
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Well, in terms of feedback, there is something I can add to what I mentioned earlier about the Mora, which I'm glad was well received.
Once you've done your homework and you know what you're interested in, you might want to do yourself a favor and look at the custom knife makers section over here on the forum. Keep an eye on it. When I was new, I figured I had to buy production knives and that custom would be out of my budget. Then I actually decided to see if my assumption was correct and it turns out I was dead wrong.
Once you know what you want, you'll see that custom makers are willing to work with you and make something you want just to your spec and the cost can be quite reasonable. Of course there are makers who sell truly incredible designs for many hundreds and even thousands of dollars, and I while it is out of my budget, I have no doubt that they are worth every penny and then some.
But there are plenty who make knives that are affordable to average Joe as well. @Daado, for instance, at least once a week or so posts up a knife somewhere in the 4-5" range made with something like 52100 or 5160 that would make an awesome woodcrafting/bushcraft knife and they are generally around $100 (give or take a little). It's an insane deal. And that's just one. I've gotten great deals on knives from @Kosa_PL and @G L Drew and seen plenty of others as well. I am frequently tempted by @ONeill's work as well, though for some reason he always posts his gorgeous knives immediately after I just blew the budget on something else. But his also consistently strike the balance of affordability and great design with lovely looking craftsmanship (though I admit that's just from pics and review from others, as I haven't beheld one in person.)
It's really cool when you can contact a knife maker who's work generally falls in your price range, and who's craftsmanship speaks to you) and say, "hey you interested in a project? I'd love a blade 3.5-3.75" in length, spear point, saber grind, a tough tool steel like O1 or comparable, micarta scales, with extended tang at the pommel to use for striking. If you want this, let's discuss." And before you know it, the knife of your dreams is being hand made for you, to your spec without the compromise of a production knife, and if you are careful about who you use, you sometimes don't even pay extra for that luxury.
Remember that whatever list you have of production knives will likely have some excellent production knives on it, but that doesn't mean it's an exclusive list, and you'd be doing yourself a disservice not to consider that win-win options are available to you in the custom world, and depending on the spec and the maker, it's NOT out of reach.
Edit to add: Holy crap that got wordy.
TL : DR- remember to consider custom knives.
JJ_Colt45
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Another you may want to look out is the recently released Becker BK62 Kephart ... it has wooden scales not Micarta ... it is a simple but very nice knife ... very closely following Horace Kephart's very own from long ago ...
it seemed to serve Horace well and from what little I have gotten to use mine it has been a nice woodcraft blade ...
it may not be the first blade you would want to try but if you get into woodcraft I would keep it in mind ... great knife with an even greater history ...
the BK62 next to the BK9 ...
it seemed to serve Horace well and from what little I have gotten to use mine it has been a nice woodcraft blade ...
it may not be the first blade you would want to try but if you get into woodcraft I would keep it in mind ... great knife with an even greater history ...
the BK62 next to the BK9 ...
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Hello and welcome to the op. I agree with all those before me who suggested getting a variety of less expensive knives over time as you get to know your needs and tastes better. For your first foray into camping fixed blades I'd recommend the plain old Mora Companion in carbon steel to you.
I have a few reasons for this. First off, they're cheap but still a very good value. That leaves plenty of budget intact to try other knives as you get more knowledgeable about what works best for you.
Second, you seemed a bit unsure in your op about whether you needed stainless steel or if carbon would be fine. That's something you need to learn for yourself. You'd be hard pressed to find better bang for your buck experimenting with carbon fixed blades than the companion. My bet is that carbon will be just fine for you if even moderately cared for. It is for many of us.
Third, the standard carbon companion is thinner blade stock than the stainless version. This means lighter, which is nice, but it also lets you see if you really need something more heavy duty for your camping/bushcraft style. Do some meal prep, fire prep, carving, etc (under controlled conditions: if you're asking about camping knives you'd probably better stick to safer, more civilized areas until you build up your knowledge and skill set a bit so a small problem doesn't become a life threatening one) and see if it holds up. If it doesn't, then you learned something that could save your life in a bad spot someday for less than $20. A darned good deal of you ask me.
You might see a Busse or a Carothers on my hip or pack, but it's a safe bet that a carbon companion lurks inside my pack somewhere to this day. Just saying.
I have a few reasons for this. First off, they're cheap but still a very good value. That leaves plenty of budget intact to try other knives as you get more knowledgeable about what works best for you.
Second, you seemed a bit unsure in your op about whether you needed stainless steel or if carbon would be fine. That's something you need to learn for yourself. You'd be hard pressed to find better bang for your buck experimenting with carbon fixed blades than the companion. My bet is that carbon will be just fine for you if even moderately cared for. It is for many of us.
Third, the standard carbon companion is thinner blade stock than the stainless version. This means lighter, which is nice, but it also lets you see if you really need something more heavy duty for your camping/bushcraft style. Do some meal prep, fire prep, carving, etc (under controlled conditions: if you're asking about camping knives you'd probably better stick to safer, more civilized areas until you build up your knowledge and skill set a bit so a small problem doesn't become a life threatening one) and see if it holds up. If it doesn't, then you learned something that could save your life in a bad spot someday for less than $20. A darned good deal of you ask me.
You might see a Busse or a Carothers on my hip or pack, but it's a safe bet that a carbon companion lurks inside my pack somewhere to this day. Just saying.
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You would be amazed how many people have a Mora buried in their pack and another fixed blade to carry. Along those same lines, I've heard of soldiers with a Glock field knife in the bottom of their packs.....You might see a Busse or a Carothers on my hip or pack, but it's a safe bet that a carbon companion lurks inside my pack somewhere to this day. Just saying.
As for your Carothers...I can only say that I hate you right now. I understand that hate is a very strong word but I can't think of better way to describe how I feel.
Their basic field knife and the EDC fixed blade (or EDC 2) are my two fixed blade dream knives. Especially the EDC.
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Well, that makes me feel even better about getting in on that last HDFK run!
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I would look hard at the new Kabar Becker BK-62 Kephart for a general woods blade for everything other than heavy batoning or chopping. I suspect it would stand up to batoning, but I wouldn't use mine that way unless I had to. It's a real nice knife in 1095 carbon steel. Take an rem-oil oil wipe used for guns with you to wipe the knife off if you feel the need.
I would avoid any knife with 0.25" bar steel like the ESEE 5 unless you just like it and want it. But, in my opinion, you won't carry it long except car camping.
I think you need to get some experience with what you like. The Becker should do you if you want it to at a modest price. Carry a sharp folder with you as well out in the woods.
There is a tremendous amount of personal preference involved with what you choose and why. For example, some might argue that if you have a folder, you should go with a bigger knife that has more flexibility in use in the woods. My take, generally is to simply carry a small folding saw in your pack. Carry a machete if you are clearing trail.
I would avoid any knife with 0.25" bar steel like the ESEE 5 unless you just like it and want it. But, in my opinion, you won't carry it long except car camping.
I think you need to get some experience with what you like. The Becker should do you if you want it to at a modest price. Carry a sharp folder with you as well out in the woods.
There is a tremendous amount of personal preference involved with what you choose and why. For example, some might argue that if you have a folder, you should go with a bigger knife that has more flexibility in use in the woods. My take, generally is to simply carry a small folding saw in your pack. Carry a machete if you are clearing trail.
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The Fallkniven F1 is a great worry free field knife.