Chopper design

theamazingdrew

theamazingdrew

Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Messages
1,258
first off, mods im putting this in WS&S because I want the opinions of people who use their knives not just fondle them.
now that is out of the way....
I made up this design for a 7" blade chopper today, im pretty happy with it but wanted some opinions/advice/critsism from the WS&S crew.
this was designed to be a simple and hard working chopper.
this will be made in .187" 1080 with canvas micarta for handles
so here are some sketches, let me know what you think!
ETA the blade will be about 1" bigger I scaled it down for the paper
dscn0186sk.jpg

dscn0187f.jpg

dscn0188b.jpg
 
For chopping, I'm all for putting as much weight as possible toward the tip of the blade. So, unless you're married to the looks of a clip point, maybe you could make it heftier at the tip instead of lighter.
 
I'd sweep the tip up to the height of the rule and then have the spine gradually rise from the handle to meet it...if that makes sense !
 
Handle/blade ratio is very important, not only for choppers but for any knife to keep the balance where it should be. With a 7" blade, 4 1/2" to 5" handle would be a good length with 4 3/4" to be a good compromise between the two. There will not be a noticeble forward weight until you go over a 9" blade. 7 to 8 inch blades with a 4 1/2" to 5" handle will put the balance right at the ricasso which gives you slight forward weight. When you go 9 to 10 inches the balance point will be about an inch in front of the ricasso. Over 10" blades would need a longer handle as to not throw too much weight forward.
Proper balance helps keep your hand from getting fatigued when spending time using a chopper in the field.
Scott
 
You should make it extended tang sort of like a Chopweiler and I agree on losing the clip point.
 
Gossman Knives said:
Handle/blade ratio is very important, not only for choppers but for any knife to keep the balance where it should be. With a 7" blade, 4 1/2" to 5" handle would be a good length with 4 3/4" to be a good compromise between the two. There will not be a noticeble forward weight until you go over a 9" blade. 7 to 8 inch blades with a 4 1/2" to 5" handle will put the balance right at the ricasso which gives you slight forward weight. When you go 9 to 10 inches the balance point will be about an inch in front of the ricasso. Over 10" blades would need a longer handle as to not throw too much weight forward.
Proper balance helps keep your hand from getting fatigued when spending time using a chopper in the field.
Scott
Click to expand...

Good points Scott !

Knife maker Richard Leveritt stated in an article for Backwoodsman mag that he tried chopping with blades around 14" and weighing around a pound with the result that they were complete failures compared to an axe.
Through trial and error he found that his knives had to be about 17"-18" overall with 6-6 1/2" handles and a weight of around 22-37 ounces; These were the dimensions of the two examples he had made....in order for them to excel at chopping ! At these sizes they actually out performed his axe when taking down 1 1/2" sweet gum !!!!
 
Chopping is my middle name

If you really want it to chop well--you will get better results with a blade 8" long(or longer)--

and increase the weight at the tip(Spear point,Bolo point,etc)
 
Wildewinds said:
For chopping, I'm all for putting as much weight as possible toward the tip of the blade. So, unless you're married to the looks of a clip point, maybe you could make it heftier at the tip instead of lighter.
Click to expand...

I totally agree. The tip is the first thing I noticed and if it were my knife, I would prefer a stronger tip. However, what you designed looks really sharp. I also like the wide blade that will make early contact when chopping, keeping the knuckles out of the way. Nice!! The slight curve to the handle looks good too. I'd keep the design the same, just strengthen the tip. Yes, it may change the looks, but who wouldn't want a chopper made to be a beast?
 
I'll give my two cents, here......

Length/weight/proportion has everything to do with thickness and tapering as well. you can make a short blade chop with a tapered tang and a long blade balanced and lively with a distal taper. Where you put the mass IS important... but it can be accomplished in more ways than handle/blade ratios.

also.....

I would prune the plunge line by extending the integral fingerguard to break into the blade. There is still plenty of material for the guard and you've removed the stress points where the edge ends. It also makes for easier sharpening.

Like this...

dscn0186sk01.jpg
 
here is an updated version taking into account ricks advice and adding a stonger tip.
im keeping the blade at 7 in, its mainly a chopper but I want it to have the capability to make firesticks as well as other things.
dscn0189xh.jpg
 
I like it. Jump on it.... ya finish yet, ya finish yet.... pics pics pics....
 
You might want to try a bit of a birds beak at the end of the handle not too much but something to help hold it without having to grip too tightly. I really like the cant you gave the handle I don`t like the BK9 because the handle is in a straight line with the blade.
 
thebrain said:
You might want to try a bit of a birds beak at the end of the handle not too much but something to help hold it without having to grip too tightly. I really like the cant you gave the handle I don`t like the BK9 because the handle is in a straight line with the blade.
Click to expand...


Here is a nice one, can't remember who made it !

013-5-1.jpg
 
Drew - I really like your redraw!
I thought Rick's take looked nice, but that spear point looks good!
 
heres the knife cut out.
I decided against a birds beak at the end, micarta is grippy enough that you shouldnt have any problems using a proper pinch grip, more tommorow.
dscn0190b.jpg
 
Just a quick sketch but this is something like I had in mind:

design079.jpg



Edit to add: Oops too late !:D
 
If it's not too late, I would round off the top side of the handle butt. I'll sometimes get a grip at the end of the handle when chopping, and that pointy butt will make a hot spot in the palm.
 
lukus said:
If it's not too late, I would round off the top side of the handle butt. I'll sometimes get a grip at the end of the handle when chopping, and that pointy butt will make a hot spot in the palm.
Click to expand...

I will its very rough right now.
 
Will you be tapering the tang or skeletonizing it? Just thinking of how you could push the balance point further forward.

Looking good so far :thumbup:
 
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