Chosera vs Shapton

Shapton Glass 500 and 2000 would be a good starting point... get the three piece set with the 16k you will be impressed.
 
Shapton Glass 500 and 2000 would be a good starting point... get the three piece set with the 16k you will be impressed.
Awesome man, so I'm guessing the Shapton Edge Pro stones are for replacing the original Edge Pro stones if you so choose ? Just to clarify I would sharpen my knife up to 1000grit with Edge Pro stones then finish with say..a 2k-4K GLASS Shapton stone ?

(Sorry I'm not dense I guess the whole GLASS and "NON-glass has got me all fcked up...want to make sure my money goes to the right spot ..lol)
 
Awesome man, so I'm guessing the Shapton Edge Pro stones are for replacing the original Edge Pro stones if you so choose ? Just to clarify I would sharpen my knife up to 1000grit with Edge Pro stones then finish with say..a 2k-4K GLASS Shapton stone ?

(Sorry I'm not dense I guess the whole GLASS and "NON-glass has got me all fcked up...want to make sure my money goes to the right spot ..lol)

I would omit the EP stones completely, maybe the 120 or a 220 might be useful but you want to make the stone switch before transitioning into fine grits. Shapton stones like to play with other Shapton stones and don't usually mix well with other stones. It's why I recommended the three stones, the 500, 2000 and 16,000 make a great set to finish an edge after rough work is complete. I typically only use the 16k on kitchen knives though and for folders I'm using the 500 as a finishing point more and more.
 
Awesome man, so I'm guessing the Shapton Edge Pro stones are for replacing the original Edge Pro stones if you so choose ? Just to clarify I would sharpen my knife up to 1000grit with Edge Pro stones then finish with say..a 2k-4K GLASS Shapton stone ?

(Sorry I'm not dense I guess the whole GLASS and "NON-glass has got me all fcked up...want to make sure my money goes to the right spot ..lol)


You can do however you choose. But the stones we are talking about are the Shapton Glass series for the Edge Pro and like sharpening systems. Shapton makes two different SERIES of stones... The Glass series and Pro series. Both for the Edge Pro and like sharpening systems & bench stones. Obviously the most economical would be to add on to what you have. If you already have a 1K stone, it would be a waste to replace it. But when the time comes, I recommend switching to the Shapton Glass series 1K, for the Edge Pro. This of course, is if you have an Edge Pro or like sharpening system. I also have the 1K and 6K Shapton Glass bench stones, in addition to my Shapton Glass stones for Edge Pro. I built my own system which is similar to the Edge Pro, and uses the stones. This is it.
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Jason and I agree on many things, I have found. But we also differ on things. This is one we both agree and disagree on at the same time! I do not find the 16K very useful. I have the 8K, which is what I finish the kitchen knives I make on. And folders/camping/survival knives I typically finish either 4K or 6K. I do want to add a 500grit. Don't currently own, but have used it. And it is a fantastic stone.

Good luck!
 
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Awesome guys thanks for all the input yeah I'll most likely just buy the 2,4,6k glass series stones for my Edge Pro then. Although.. it seems to me you guys think the 2k is a waste since it so close to the 1k huh?

If what you say about the Edge Pro stones and shapton stones not liking to "play well with each other" is true then this is a very sad day for me. I figured I could just use my 120 grit stone to establish my Edge then work on up the grits with the Edge Pro stones and finish with shapton?..I mean with my 1k Edge Pro stone I can get a "mirror finish" it's just not "liquid" looking if you know what I mean lol? I only see VERY slight scratches left on my bevel.
 
I think our styles just differ a bit David.

I like the toothy polished edge and skipping grits like going from a 500 to a 2k or 2k to 16k creates a coarse base edge with a polished finish. This gives the bite of a coarse edge and the sharpness of a fine edge while balancing edge retention and cutting ability. I will run a progression on some knives but for 90% of the things I sharpen the Shapton Glass 500 and 2000 are all I use.

OP,

The grit/AKA micron size of the abrasive, abrasive type, abrasive shape and bond strength will all play a role in how a stone works and the finish it produces. If the 1k EP stone is producing polish then the 2k Glass will likely be a downgrade in finish. The EP stones are graded under a different grit measurement system than the Shapton stones thus why I said they would not play well together.

FYI, the 500 and 2000 Shapton Glass are what we like to call unicorn stones. These are specific stones from a line that stand out above the rest. Also IMO, the 1k Glass is not a very good 1k stone and I find myself only using it when I need to. The 2k removes the 500 scratches efficiently on all butcthe most wear resistant of steels.
 
Awesome guys thanks for all the input yeah I'll most likely just buy the 2,4,6k glass series stones for my Edge Pro then. Although.. it seems to me you guys think the 2k is a waste since it so close to the 1k huh?

If what you say about the Edge Pro stones and shapton stones not liking to "play well with each other" is true then this is a very sad day for me. I figured I could just use my 120 grit stone to establish my Edge then work on up the grits with the Edge Pro stones and finish with shapton?..I mean with my 1k Edge Pro stone I can get a "mirror finish" it's just not "liquid" looking if you know what I mean lol? I only see VERY slight scratches left on my bevel.


Just because the 2K is a waste to me, doesn't mean it has to be for you. Trust me! If money was no problem, I would EVERY single Shapton Glass stone made! I know that's right! Unfortunately, it is a concern. So I go with what "I" have decided is the best group of stones.

Also, "stones not playing well with other stones", is one of those few things that I don't agree with. At one time I had all different brands of stones for the Edge Pro. From Chosera, Atoma, Shapton, Bester, EP, and others! I even used some wrapped in sandpaper at times. Was NOT the most efficient way of doing things. And I have way streamlined things. But I still always got the job done. Even now, I use diamond below 1K, because it's just material removal below. I see no problem with adding certain stones, while still keeping the others. I would NEVER get rid of a perfectly good stone of another make! The stones will be fine together. Your not going to tear a hole in the "Space Time Continuem" or anything, just because you use a Shapton stone with another brand! Nothing bad will happen! I promis.
 
I think our styles just differ a bit David.

I like the toothy polished edge and skipping grits like going from a 500 to a 2k or 2k to 16k creates a coarse base edge with a polished finish. This gives the bite of a coarse edge and the sharpness of a fine edge while balancing edge retention and cutting ability. I will run a progression on some knives but for 90% of the things I sharpen the Shapton Glass 500 and 2000 are all I use.

OP,

The grit/AKA micron size of the abrasive, abrasive type, abrasive shape and bond strength will all play a role in how a stone works and the finish it produces. If the 1k EP stone is producing polish then the 2k Glass will likely be a downgrade in finish. The EP stones are graded under a different grit measurement system than the Shapton stones thus why I said they would not play well together.

FYI, the 500 and 2000 Shapton Glass are what we like to call unicorn stones. These are specific stones from a line that stand out above the rest. Also IMO, the 1k Glass is not a very good 1k stone and I find myself only using it when I need to. The 2k removes the 500 scratches efficiently on all butcthe most wear resistant of steels.


I agree with you on all this. Like I said in the above post. It's different ways of doing the same thing. Are either of us wrong? Of course not! But we are both right! I doubt anyone could disagree with our results. I've never seen results, and you have not seen mine. But I've read enough of your posts, that I can tell you know what you are doing. I know you will understand what I mean by most people in this world have no clue what a TRULY sharp edge is! And if someone were to say to that Benchmade, or ZT edges are sharpest out there! I bet I know what your answer would be. Am I right?
 
So, last thing I'll say about it all really....for those interested, I recommend you try out as much as you can. Try many different stones. Try many different systems. You will, over time, learn your OWN way to do all of this. You will get to a point where no matter what knife...No matter what steel...No matter what primary bevel grind- you WILL achieve an incredibly sharp edge when you are done! It will become easy to you. I will also say.. No matter what system you end up liking the most, also practice Free Hand sharpening. I was never as good with it, as the Edge Pro. But I was proficient. I would continue now, save that it doesn't work very well when you have only one arm/hand to use. LOL! But it was something I practiced before my accident. Others may even build their own sharpeners, as I did! But Free Hand sharpening is an invaluable skill to possess.
 
Fuck guys there is so much I want to say with all this information but I'll keep it short and sweet..
Thanks to cbwx34 cbwx34 conversion chart does this mean I'd be wasting money if I bought the 2k glass shapton stone if it's theoretically the same as the 400 grit Edge Pro stone that I ALREADY have?..so if I go by the chart he supplied me ..I'd basically have to purchase the 20k Shapton glass or 15k Chosera?! That just seems absurd? You guys tell me you finish EDC blades at 4K max? But if I go by the chart really your finishing on a 20k Shapton stone?..
 
Well, you stated earlier you're already approaching a "mirror finish" with the EP 1000g stone, so you'd have to be pretty high up the Shapton part to continue... pretty sure not at the 2K level. (I think you got the 2nd part of your post backward...they're finishing on a 4K Shapton unless I'm missing something).

Have you considered getting EP 2300g and 4000g stones? Haven't used them myself, but my experience with EP is that they're pretty good at figuring out stones... might be just what you're looking for.... would be the natural progression after their 1000g stone I would bet.
 
Well, you stated earlier you're already approaching a "mirror finish" with the EP 1000g stone, so you'd have to be pretty high up the Shapton part to continue... pretty sure not at the 2K level. (I think you got the 2nd part of your post backward...they're finishing on a 4K Shapton unless I'm missing something).

Have you considered getting EP 2300g and 4000g stones? Haven't used them myself, but my experience with EP is that they're pretty good at figuring out stones... might be just what you're looking for.... would be the natural progression after their 1000g stone I would bet.
I haven't even thought about the Edge Pro stones because I thought they were crap compared to Chosera or Shapton but it seems like it's all preference really after I take a look at the chart you gave me ..lol.

One more quick question and then I can stop bothering you guys ..I've noticed when I get a new knife with a shit edge ..I mean factory edge, my 120 EP stones just doesn't cut it for when I need to rebevel the cutting edge on say m390,s110 EVEN s35vn..it takes literally 25 mins to get a complete scratch pattern. I've seen people talk about the DMT coarse stone but they seem to only come in 2x6?? That seems stupid..not to mention a lot of people who put them on the Edge Pro say it damages the little "stone holders" seeing as I guess you have to really rench the thing down..

Any of you have experience with Atoma coarse stones ? Thanks again for all the info guys I'm very grateful.
 
... I've seen people talk about the DMT coarse stone but they seem to only come in 2x6?? That seems stupid..not to mention a lot of people who put them on the Edge Pro say it damages the little "stone holders" seeing as I guess you have to really rench the thing down..


Who's claiming damage to the stone holders? I've used one this way for years... no issue.

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Who's claiming damage to the stone holders? I've used one this way for years... no issue.

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Hmm I just read multiple reviews that the stone is very lose unless you really tighten up the holder. I guess I'll have to spend the 50 bucks on one of these then.
 
I have an Atoma 140grit. It cuts & removes material very quickly! I only use it for MAKING bevels. For instance after I finish making a new knife. I use the Atoma to "create" the secondary bevel. And I may use it when repairing a damaged edge-chips, etc.
 
EP stones might be good but I highly doubt they are Naniwa and Shapton good. There is a difference and it is something you will notice.

There are also diamond plates cut for the EP, just look around.
 
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