Club Platinum,,,,,,2010 ,, vol .. 2

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G day mangs!

Hey 11, wellcome and stay safe. Trade w'tever but not your Horton or your dragonskin...
 
Hey guys,

I'm not a whisky or brandy drinker, but a fellow hortonite suggested I ask you all about the quality of this drink. What do you think?

It is some bicentennial brandy that looks like it was released in 96.

Thanks.
 

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I think I remember liquids like that...what did they call it? Alkehall? God I can't wait to get home and enjoy some libations again.
 
Good call Fug...released in 1976. It looks like Lejon Champagne Cellars in California. I found some people selling the empty bottle on the bay, but none with the liquid....no big deal.

Hope you all have a good day today, and stay safe.
 
Goooood Morning!


rutmi01,
if what jeremy says is right,
maybe you can use it to remove the decarb layer on
a Hellrazor and Jackhammer?
 
Mornin',,,

I finally got this leather paddle strop,,, one side is black leather and the other side is light brown leather,,, how do I know which side is the rougher ? (first use the rougher and then the smooth side, right ?) No information was included or can be found on the Net (I'll be mailing the seller, but I want to try it out asap),,,

Also, I bought this bar of Green Compound to add to the strop, but it is very dry and brittle,,, is this normal ? Do I have to soak it in water before applying it to the strop ? (I tried to apply it to another strop and it was VERY difficult, it even scratched the leather)


To start a convex edge, most people use the mousepad/sandpaper method,,, what grit and kind of sandpaper do I need to use ? Can all edges be converted to a convex edge ? Is it good to convert all edges to convex or is this edge best suited to larger fixed blades ?

Brian, help ! :o:D

ps: this is the strop I bought,,, click,,, and this is the green compound,,, click
 
Chibbi -

I can't tell if your strop is already loaded with compound or not, but if so, the black is usually coarser, and the pink finer grit compound. The Green should be a medium abrasive

Your strop may absorbe the green compound better if you heat the leather up a little

I only use the rough side of a piece of leather treated with the green compound, and then finish on smooth plain untreated leather when I am sharpening, as I'm not a surgeon

I have started with 300 grit to convex a blade, going to 600, 800, 1200 and finishing up on a plain leather strop. You can use an El Cheapo blade to develop your convexing skills - even one of Momma's butter knives - well maybe not :D I never tried convexing with a mouse pad, but used my leather strop with a sheet of sandpaper wrapped around it, since this was all I had

My Ash1 turned out pretty good

The green compound, plain leather combination works great for touch up work for me and puts an almost platinum edge on my blade as well.
 
Cheers, Bear,,, some more questions if you please,,, :D

I'm pretty sure the strop isn't loaded with compound, otherwise that would have been in the add, I guess,,,

How do you pre-heat the leather ? (I mean, it's fixed to the paddle)

Does the sandpaper need to be of the make-it-wet-before-use-type or dry-use ?

Is it normal for the Green compound to be so dry and brittle ? I mean, it falls into pieces when picked up and has some very sharp edges then,,, or did I get stuck with an expired piece or something ? (or do you need to soak it beforehand or heat it or something ?)

When do you know it's time to proceed with a higher grit sandpaper ?

what's the best angle to hold the blade at or does that differ from knife to knife ? How can you tell what angle is the best ?

sorry for the multitude of questions, but I want to get this right from the start and don't grow a bad habbit by doing something wrong,,, :o
 
Use hair dryer to pre-heat the leather Chibbi.

To find the angle - lay it flat on the strop - move it while rising the blade - at the point where edge will start to grab the leather (even before its starts to cut it) - thats the angle to strop it at.
 
Cheers, Bear,,, some more questions if you please,,, :D

I'm pretty sure the strop isn't loaded with compound, otherwise that would have been in the add, I guess,,, Chibbi take another look at the add - it says Two Side leather paste, which is a little confusing to me
How do you pre-heat the leather ? (I mean, it's fixed to the paddle) heat gun or hair dryer, just warm it up
Does the sandpaper need to be of the make-it-wet-before-use-type or dry-use ? I use the wet/dry automotive, but do not wet it

Is it normal for the Green compound to be so dry and brittle ? I mean, it falls into pieces when picked up and has some very sharp edges then,,, or did I get stuck with an expired piece or something ? (or do you need to soak it beforehand or heat it or something ?) Does the package say Chromium Oxide? It should have a slight wax base to it to hold it together. Try using the small end, and apply with crayon perpedicular to the leather - use your finger to smooth it out
When do you know it's time to proceed with a higher grit sandpaper ? There is a process where you can use a marker to mark the edge, I will try to locate this link for you - it better describes this than I ever could
what's the best angle to hold the blade at or does that differ from knife to knife ? How can you tell what angle is the best ? I usually start at 15-20 degrees
sorry for the multitude of questions, but I want to get this right from the start and don't grow a bad habbit by doing something wrong,,, :o
No problem Chibbi - I am sure there are others here who are more knowledgeable, who will chime in to help also. I'm certainly no expert. The Maintenance and Tinkering forum has a lot of good info on convexing a blade
 
Use hair dryer to pre-heat the leather Chibbi.

To find the angle - lay it flat on the strop - move it while rising the blade - at the point where edge will start to grab the leather (even before its starts to cut it) - thats the angle to strop it at.

Pauli, Isn't this related to the sharpening process after the edge has already been profiled?
 
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