Coarse vs. Fine Stones For Finishing an Edge?

Handwrecker said:
Thanks for all your input, Ankerson. I have a set of 120 and 240 grit silicon carbide Congress moldmaster stones I've been using with my Sharpmaker. I'm going to try those out, then finish with the diamond rods on my S30V and 20CP blades and see how I like the courser finish than I'm used to. My theory is that the high amount of vanadium carbides in those two steels will cut more aggressively with a courser finish. We'll just have to see.
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Might want to get the 320 and 400 stones as they will leave a very nice finish and will still be very aggressive.
 
Just tried this on my Military and Para @ 30* inclusive... All I can say is, WOW! Went up to the 320 stone on EP, then a quick de-burr on a hard felt pad with compund.... hair whittling, but very very aggressive edge. Didn't think that was possible on such a low grit...never seen it done before. I've always been a big fan of ultra-refined edges, but I may have just been converted. Totally exceeded my expectations!
 
Pete84 said:
Just tried this on my Military and Para @ 30* inclusive... All I can say is, WOW! Went up to the 320 stone on EP, then a quick de-burr on a hard felt pad with compund.... hair whittling, but very very aggressive edge. Didn't think that was possible on such a low grit...never seen it done before. I've always been a big fan of ultra-refined edges, but I may have just been converted. Totally exceeded my expectations!
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Cool. :)
 
Would you say 6 micron DMT paste is too fine for a strop? I used to think that would be fine for burr removal, though now it sounds too fine. My edge from Phil Wilson doesn't really catch my leg hairs, though if I bring it to the skin the hairs will pop right off with ease.
 
Noctis3880 said:
Would you say 6 micron DMT paste is too fine for a strop? I used to think that would be fine for burr removal, though now it sounds too fine. My edge from Phil Wilson doesn't really catch my leg hairs, though if I bring it to the skin the hairs will pop right off with ease.
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No, it not too fine. :)
 
Ankerson said:
Anytime. :D

I am using Phil Wilsons method of loading the strop (Smooth side) with the slurry from the fine Sil Carbide stone. :)

Getting insane crazy sharp edges that way.
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How are you harvesting the slurry you load the strop with? Is there something else that could take the place of this slurry, such as the diamond slurry/paste DM mentions?
 
I used a cheap coarse diamond plate to build a slurry with a bit of water then put the leather on the stone and rubbed it around. I then mounted the leather to the top of the plastic case and its good to go. The stone slurry on the leather is pretty impressive, results straight from the stone are a little coarse for my liking but after a few passes on the strops it gets nice and Sharp. The stone itself is also much finer than I expected and with a slurry looks a lot like a 1k waterstone finish.
 
knifenut1013 said:
I used a cheap coarse diamond plate to build a slurry with a bit of water then put the leather on the stone and rubbed it around. I then mounted the leather to the top of the plastic case and its good to go. The stone slurry on the leather is pretty impressive, results straight from the stone are a little coarse for my liking but after a few passes on the strops it gets nice and Sharp. The stone itself is also much finer than I expected and with a slurry looks a lot like a 1k waterstone finish.
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Yeah, it smooths out nice. :)

I also noticed that about the slurry, leaves a semi polished edge.
 
OK, today I took a fairly damaged, edge wise, Large Regular Sebenza (S30V) and went from DMT extra course to course and then straight to DMT 6 micron paste. I don't have any silicon carbiode stones as of yet but this seemed like an acceptable variation on the theme.
Normally I would have gone from the course to fine, extra fine, paste and then extra extra fine and then on to the strops...1 micron then finish with .5micron.
So, needless to say I saved ALOT of time, the edge is popping and tree topping to boot. It will be intereting to see how it holds up to my usual edc duties.
Any suggestions or comments regarding my above approach?
 
peppercorn said:
OK, today I took a fairly damaged, edge wise, Large Regular Sebenza (S30V) and went from DMT extra course to course and then straight to DMT 6 micron paste. I don't have any silicon carbiode stones as of yet but this seemed like an acceptable variation on the theme.
Normally I would have gone from the course to fine, extra fine, paste and then extra extra fine and then on to the strops...1 micron then finish with .5micron.
So, needless to say I saved ALOT of time, the edge is popping and tree topping to boot. It will be intereting to see how it holds up to my usual edc duties.
Any suggestions or comments regarding my above approach?
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Sounds good to me, let us know how it does. :)
 
Also, any good sources for the silicon carbide stones? I free hand and the 1inch stones are just too narrow.
 
They have Norton crystolon, is that what you guys are using?
Also, are you using water or...?
 
peppercorn said:
They have Norton crystolon, is that what you guys are using?
Also, are you using water or...?
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Norton Crystolon is Sil Carbide. :)

You can use Water, I use Windex as what recommended to me by Phil Wilson.
 
Ok got it.

Thanks guys.

Now, what about that 'cheep' course diamond stone, for making the slurry, any suggestions? All I have are my non-cheep DMTs.
 
peppercorn said:
Ok got it.

Thanks guys.

Now, what about that 'cheep' course diamond stone, for making the slurry, any suggestions? All I have are my non-cheep DMTs.
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80 grit Sil Cardbide sandpaper on a flat surface lubed with Windex, or just sharpen a kitchen knife or something and rub the slurry on the strop like I do.
 
Now that I can do with available paper.
I have recently moved from leather strops to hard wood. Are you using leather for this particular application?
 
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