COLD STEEL Master Hunter review

Jeff Clark said:
If you assume that you are going to use a knife and resharpen it until it is reduced to half of its blade width a full laminate blade is pretty optimal. That assumes that you need the toughness. ...On the other hand, for a knife this size I prefer a simple uniform hardness blade up around 60 RC.
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That's kinda what I was getting at; I'd just as soon have it uniformly hardened from a very tough steel to start with. If it ain't tough enough to keep the body of the blade from breakin' in half, it won't be tough enough to keep big chunks from blowing out of the edge, either.


Jeff Clark said:
I guess that part of my point is that you don't want a soft core and hard outer layers. That would make a knife that dulled quick and broke easily.
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Oh, I think I've got you now. For a minute there I was thinking about the common Japanese style, that does have a soft core enveloped by a harder outer layer.
 
CS Master Hunter in Carbon V is one of my favorite hunting knives. :thumbup:
 
I just got a Fallkniven F1 and H1. They are very different from the CS Master Hunter, in both size and profile. They are thick little knives also, the H1 is 0.19 inches at the spine.
 
My comment about optimum lamination was in response to the thread author's comment: "This means that the san mai III has softer steel on his lateral layers and harder in the middle. Well, I don't know how hard midlle layer is, so it's difficult to say is it right or wrong but can cause some mayor problems, for example, resharpening in a field." It seemed like he questioned having a hard core. Most of here favor hard core over soft core.
 
Oh.


Once again I've managed to totally misunderstand somethin'. I thought you were calling laminating the optimal way to make a knife in general. Sorry for the confusion.

Cheers. :thumbup:
 
Guyon said:
CS Master Hunter in Carbon V is one of my favorite hunting knives. :thumbup:
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I agree. Here's a pic for comparison:
Top to bottom, CS MH in CarbonV, F1, H1, Dozier K2.

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The MH has seen lots of use (and patina), the Fallknivens are brand new and have cut nothing but air, and the Dozier has seen light use. Interesting how the H1 and K2 have the same upswept yet dropped tip. Great minds must think alike.
 
topspeclt said:
Looks like a copy of a Fallkniven A1\F1\S1 to me.I agree that in practical real-world situations the blade shape, grind and handle work really well.

Defintely a no-nonsense knife.:thumbup:

I wonder how well the San Mai would do in destruction tests.
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Actually I'm fairly sure that fallkniven started out selling coldsteel knives, so its the other way around
 
the possum said:
Mmmm, I might choose to debate with you on the optimal part, but it certainly is one effective way to accomplish the goal.

After every deer season a co worker brings in a master hunter for me to sharpen; one with a plain carbon steel blade. Doesn't seem like too bad of a knife at all.
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True! That knife would be better in one layer carbon steel, maybe SK-5. I have CS Recon Scout in that steel and for me this is maybe best choice of steel for outdoor knife. I believe that carbon 5 was excellent steel but never had a knife with this type of steel.
 
sodak said:
I agree. Here's a pic for comparison:
Top to bottom, CS MH in CarbonV, F1, H1, Dozier K2.

p1010011.jpg


The MH has seen lots of use (and patina), the Fallknivens are brand new and have cut nothing but air, and the Dozier has seen light use. Interesting how the H1 and K2 have the same upswept yet dropped tip. Great minds must think alike.
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Man, what are you hunting???
 
A while ago, I was offered a great deal on a CS Master Hunter in San Mai so I went for it.

It's a really nicely made knife; very solid and 3/16" thick.
Well balanced and razor sharp out of the box with excellent grinds.
Made in Japan.

Haven't used it much so no comment as of yet on its durability.
 
fallkniven knocked off cold steel. I know that sounds strange here but it is, to the best of my knolwage, true.
 
I don't know, i never owned fallkniven knife. That whole idea of three layers of stainless steel, no matter how tough and durable they are, doesn't sounds good to me. CS should offer bigger choice of different types handle materials for Master Hunter too.
 
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cabala said:
I don't know, i never owned fallkniven knife. That whole idea of three layers of stainless steel, no matter how tough and durable they are, doesn't sounds good to me. CS should offer bigger choice of different types handle materials for Master Hunter too.
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At this point, 100's of years of experience say otherwise.
 
Well, Victorinox was started in 1884, and "Inox" in the name refers to stainless. I believe stainless steel was invented a decade before that.
 
Laminated steel has been around a long time. Laminated stainless is a good idea. Stainless tends to be brittle compared to simple carbon steel. Protecting a hard stainless core with softer stainless outer layers is a good combination. Other makers use this approach as well.

What I don't like is when the blade is thin and the outer layers are very soft the blade bends too easily.
 
I own a master hunter since the first year they have been sold, like 88 or something. I know late 80's. I still have it and I still use it. I have said this before and I'll say it again it is the BEST designed hunter I have ever used and that includes customs. It is 01 steel with a distal taper and 3/16" thick. I am on my second sheath. Don't know about who copied who but I doubt anybody copied anybody with this design. It is just a kick ass woods knife and I absolutely love it. keepem sharp
 
Jeff Clark said:
Laminated steel has been around a long time. Laminated stainless is a good idea. Stainless tends to be brittle compared to simple carbon steel. Protecting a hard stainless core with softer stainless outer layers is a good combination. Other makers use this approach as well.

What I don't like is when the blade is thin and the outer layers are very soft the blade bends too easily.
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I mean that isn't good idea to use this steel for knives like Master Hunter, not generally. I don't understand why is protecting hard stainless steel with softer good combination?
 
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