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Comments on A2 steel

Originally posted by Jerry Hossom:
When I edge Ontario Machete's to make them cut more efficiently and endure abuse the standard edge can't tolerate, I do so with the understanding I am working with Rc50 1095 steel.

Well, fine and dandy, but is it 'machetes', not 'Machete's' :)

I used to take a lot of theoretical readings to heart quite a bit. However, now that I am getting old (over 2000 posts ans 24 years of age!) I am more and more convinced by real world experience. I will admit that I LIKE AUS-8 in knives, as I find it really easy to sharpen and it takes an AWESOME edge. But this stell is supposed to be kinda crappy and "lesser" than ATS-34 and such? I wish my bechmade AFCK were AUS-8! Why? This is from my real world use.

I have truckloads of respect for Jerry and his approach to knife making. He tests blades himself and has testers to do testing for him as well. And, Jerry always encourages feedback from those who have his blades. Jerry listens to what his testers have to say too. I would be 100% confident to tell Jerry what I wanted a knife to do and send him the bucks. Jerry will know how to make a knife that will do what I need it to do. Ask Jerry how his A2 blades have held up in the field. Ask Gaucho or any other forumite here who has a Hossom and used it in real world applications. That will prove much more useful that trying to deduce expected performance from metallurgy and non-real world testings.
 
Jerry :

That a knife doesn't ding by NOT making the requisite cut is NOT the same as passing the toughness test while actually making the requisite cut.

If you take two knives and make a cut at a piece of bone (or whatever) using simliar technique and neither gets damaged then all you can say is both have similar levels of toughness. If one cuts more than the other you have no basis for saying it was tougher, just that it cut better. Using that logic leads to odd places. For example if I take a knife and extend the blade I can now draw out my cuts which will greatly increase the penetration, by your logic I can now claim it is tougher than the blade that doesn't cut as well. In fact if it cut much better, but only got slightly damaged, it wouldn't be much of a leap to extend the logic to say that it was still tougher. In this sense you are using "tougher" as some undefined combination of edge durablity and cutting ability.

Had I known he was going to pry chunks out of Mesquite, I likely would have profiled the blade differently.

Yes, however, the same argument could be made to any blade that fails any test. Nor would it be a great leap to allow a change in heat treat or even materials if you are going to allow a change in geometry. Allowances are going to be made is all. you will have to give up penetration in this case to get strength.

When I edge Ontario Machete's to make them cut more efficiently and endure abuse the standard edge can't tolerate

You can't do both of these at the same time. If you put a higher convex edge on the blade by hitting the upper part of the bevel, you will increase the cutting ability, however this loss of metal directly reduces the strength of the blade. By the same factors, if you make the edge more obtuse by hitting the bevel with a more obtuse convex gridn right out near the edge, it will get more durable, but it won't cut any better. You would get near identical performance by using a secondary flat bevel. There are some minor benefits to convex profiles which don't reduce durability (in fact enhance it), but they are very minor and cannot compensate for any significant change in geometry.



-Cliff
 
Cliff, give me a break. Since the knife has to transect a good bit of meat before it gets to the bone, if it slows down substantially before it even gets to the bone it will not experience substantial stress on impact. Conversely, if a blade impacts the bone with sufficient force to cut through the bone, it has endured much greater stress.

I do not give up penetration to get strength. They are not mutually exclusive attributes in a blade edge. In fact, the edge and the parabolic arc above the edge work together to improve penetration.

I am just stunned that you can evaluate the results of my reshaping the edge on a machete without having a clue as to what I did. Frankly you don't know what you are talking about.
 
Cliff,
Could you please explain the difference in the C-notch and the V-notch charpy tests in more detail.I don't understand them completely.
Also, I'm curios as to which steels would chip and/or bend easiest at the edge when hardened at their proper individual hardness levels.My list of steels is O1,A2,D2,M2,CPM 3V,and 154 CM.I,m talking about blades of the the same size,grind,and edge thickness.Also,which steel would hold an edge longest in chopping wood or bone and which would hold the best edge in rope or meat cutting?
Thanks,
 
I have a small axis with ATS34 that I carried for over a year. I then replaced it with the larger axis lock with an A2 blade, which has been carried for over one year. I had chipped the ATS34 blade twice and the A2 blade once. The A2 blade has held an edge much better and suffered far less damage and wear. I sharpened the chip out of the A2 blade yesterday, without any problems. As a whole I like the A2 alot better in my use.

My carry knife really gets light use, opening computer boxes, christmas gifts, birthday gifts, cutting nylon rope, carving on wood at times, etc. I avoid trying to cut metal with it so I have no idea how any of the chips got into the blades.

Well that's about it for my experience. On to searching for my dream damascus bladed knife....
 
Originally posted by Kavall
I have a small axis with ATS34 that I carried for over a year. I then replaced it with the larger axis lock with an A2 blade, which has been carried for over one year.

:confused: Are you sure you axis was A2 and not M2 or D2??? I am not a BM guru, but I haven't heard of any in A2...
 
Man, where is RJ when you need him?? :)

Jerry, you are doing a great job!

Cliff. Well, a heat treating book for tool steels is great and all, but does it cover Knife Blades Specificially? I was ALWAYS told by other makers and by heat treaters and steel guys than the HT books are for generic pieces of steel, NOT knife blades. A2 is a very tough steel. Very durable, very fine edge, and can take some punishment. That means it is tough. All the charpy and v notch tests are all well and good, but when i hear reports about in the field use, thats much more useful than the test results. Paper and real world testing are worlds apart. Cutting thru bone is hard to do, not matter how you do it. its easy to ding a sharp edge on bone, no matter what. Being able to slice thru meat, which slows a blade down, and bone, is a great test. Why do you think the japanese did tameshirigiri(sp?) Cutting flesh and bone, sick as it may be for some, was and still is a great test of how a blade performs, its edge, and how durable it is.

With the 2 knives. if one is damaged, and 1 cuts thru, it would mean that the one that cut thru was obviously tougher because it MADE THE CUT, and the other one failed for whatever reason, bad cutting technique aside.
 
Originally posted by Taz
...With the 2 knives. if one is damaged, and 1 cuts thru, it would mean that the one that cut thru was obviously tougher because it MADE THE CUT, and the other one failed for whatever reason, bad cutting technique aside.
While I am not an expert, I would add that the two knives in question should have the exact same blade shape/bevel, initial sharpness, etc. Then, and only then, can you attribute its 'success' to toughness or some other attribute of the steel (or heat treat) itself...if you leave one other thing that can distinguish the two blades, someone can always argue that it was the reason behind the disparity in their performances.
 
Obviously, we r comparing toughness of the steel, so all of those elements would have to stay the same. I thought that was understood, but I guess not.
 
Originally posted by Warriorsociologist

While I am not an expert, I would add that the two knives in question should have the exact same blade shape/bevel, initial sharpness, etc. Then, and only then, can you attribute its 'success' to toughness or some other attribute of the steel (or heat treat) itself...if you leave one other thing that can distinguish the two blades, someone can always argue that it was the reason behind the disparity in their performances.

In the case mentioned they were not the same, and in fact no two knives from two different makers will ever be the same. I rarely make two exactly the same myself. I think though you can comparatively test two knives having different parameters in the same test and draw some meaningful conclusions, though sorting out any one parameter as the reason (such as the steel) would be impossible. You can however test the totality of eack knife and its capacity to make certain cuts without sustaining damage. That, in fact, is the basis of all Bladesmith competitions. Everyone makes his own knife. All perform the same tests, failure is measured by the inability of a knife to 1) make the requisite cut(s) and 2) not sustain damage in the processs. Failure in either instance is considered a failed test. Clearly any knife could strike bone at a velocity certain to insure it passes the "not sustain damage" part. Failing to make the cut is a control on that portion of the test. Making the cut while not sustaining damage is a measure of the knife performing properly in the trial.

I think it's safe to infer though that given an adequately challenging test, i.e. 3" of dense bone", a blade and it's steel might reasonably be judged sound. A weak steel will fail to survive. A blunt edge will fail to make the cut. In the instance cited, the cut was made without splintering the bone, demonstrating that it was in fact cut and not broken. Several cuts were made, demonstrating that it was in fact reproducible. It's an easy enough test to try. Get a bone from your butcher, and try to cut it. You'll quickly see that edges that are not sharp won't penetrate the bone very far. Edges that are weak will bend or break. There is a very difficult balance required to make the blade both sharp and strong, and that is seldom achieved with inferior steel. Shaving sharp edges and hard bone are not normally compatible. I've personally broken a lot of blades and edges to learn that. :)
 
I just wait till hunting season and use any new short swords in new materials to lop the heads off hanging deer, usually 6 or so a year. :D Field testing you know! :p
 
Let me begin my reply by stating that I always enjoy reading both Cliff's and Jerry's posts. Further, I agree that meaningful results about the merits of a steel can be obtained when comparing different types of blades...but these results, while 'meaningful' do not constitute as "proof" one way or another...

Originally posted by Jerry Hossom
though sorting out any one parameter as the reason (such as the steel) would be impossible...

Yes, very true. Jerry, I was not implying that your tests or blades were any less than what you claim they are...in fact I like "real world" testing that you do. I am just less confident in the sweeping conclusions that people try to make from these kinds of tests. Yes, they are 'evidence', but they are not completely conclusive. In my original statement, I was simply trying to reduce this argument to a logical 'proof'...instead of a long string of "what ifs". I think that if one were to create two test blades, each as close to one another as possible in everyway - save for the steel - then we could have a true test of the steel itself.

However, since this is RARELY done, I welcome more tests like the ones both you and cliff conduct so that I can learn what I can from them.

Thank you to both of you for your efforts.
 
Truth is, if you had two identical blades, except for the steel, the results would still be in doubt, since you are extrapolating a conclusion from a single data point. Was the heat treat just right on both? Should both steels have been edged the same or to suit each individual steel? Was the cut made exactly the same? Etc.? All you can really do is to try to understand what works and what doesn't. What's "best" will probably never be known. What's "good" is probably the best you can hope for... :)
 
Jerry Hossom :

... if it slows down substantially before it even gets to the bone it will not experience substantial stress on impact. Conversely, if a blade impacts the bone with sufficient force to cut through the bone, it has endured much greater stress.

You are glossing over factors and attributing forces to where they don't contribute, the edge doesn't take the full force of the impact. If I take a knife that cuts through a piece of rope with say 50 lbs of force, then reprofile the the edge so that it only takes 25 lbs, this doesn't change at all the amount of force the very edge sees. All I removed was the force on the sides of the blade that come from wedging the material apart. The stress on the edge comes from the amount of pressure needed to overcome the rupture pressure of the rope and that is the same in each case (with minor complications).

There is no way you can conclude with certaintly that a blade that doesn't make a compete cut and doesn't get damaged would have damage induced if the geometry was altered to allow a complete cut. In fact you can't even elmiminate the possibility that that it might show greater durability than the other blade once the geometry was altered. Take an CPM-3V blade with very obtuse grinds which cannot make the cut, but is not damaged, and compare it to an ATS-34 blade that can do the complete cut without damage. By your logic you can now conclude that the CPM-3V is not as tough. In reality all you can conclude is that one knife cut better and make no statement on toughness.

I do not give up penetration to get strength. They are not mutually exclusive attributes in a blade edge.

Strength is directly correlated to cross section, penetration is negatively correlated. If this correlation didn't exist, there is nothing preventing you from grinding a tip of infinite strength and penetration ability (except for mass, but that tends to increase penetration ability for a lot of stabs). Now there are a few complications, but they are small effects. For example a convex ground tip will be more durable in prying wood than a flat ground tip of similar amounts of metal, because the convex ground tip will take the stress along the upper parts of its bevel, whereas the flat ground tip will allow a lot of force to be concentrated on the very tip. Convex ones tend to break further up from the tip when prying in wood, which obviously takes more force. However, there are other types of prying which would favor the flat ground edge. And if you stick with either geometry, the basic rule holds. Or, for example, you could sharpen the upper part of a knife bevel (false edge), and increase the penetration without lowering the strength significantly (of course you lower the durability of the false edge tremendously), however once this is done, if you want to go further you have to increase the cross section and thus decrease the penetration.

I am just stunned that you can evaluate the results of my reshaping the edge on a machete without having a clue as to what I did.

It is hardly a complicated relationship as it depends on very simple physical laws. If you take for example a 20 degree bevel and apply a convex grind which is in all respects lower, the cutting ability will directly go up and the durability directly down. If your convex bevel is the opposite, then similarly effected in the opposite way are cutting ability and durability. Now you could use a convex bevel which is a lot lower than 20 degrees near the shoulder and over 20 degrees right next to the edge. This would leave the very edge a little more durable, and overall raise the cutting ability. But the edge as a whole is now much more prone to rippling. This is in fact how most machetes get damaged, usually when you hit a knot, or a branch breaks and you hit another laterally, which is really, really bad. And again, similar to the argument for the tips, if this relationship didn't exsit you could make edges of infinite durability and cutting ability.

There is however a further complication which is that drag forces can depend on a complicated manner on cross section, and it is possible to have a blade that cuts better than another, even with a greater cross section and thus strength, if the drag profile is better. I have discussed this with a knife maker who claimed to have shown this comparing flat, hollow and convex optomized blades (oblate curves). His testing confirmed that the convex+ blades were optimal, which from basic principles is sensible. However, this cutting ability ratio won't hold across all materials in a uniform matter. And for every geometry the basic relation between durability and cutting ability will hold. I am getting a few blades to look at this matter myself as it is rather interesting.

Jon Lumpkin :

... C-notch and the V-notch

The C-notch test uses a circular notch in the block, and the v-notch one an angluar cut. V-notch tests give lower failure points as they focus the stress more. Impact toughness tests can be done in two ways, the Charpy and Izod. the difference between them is that with the Charpy values the steel is hit on back of the notch, for Izod testing the notch is facing the hammer.
[blades of the the same size,grind,and edge thickness.]

... which steels would chip and/or bend easiest at the edge when hardened at their proper individual hardness levels.

In regards to strength, and therefore resistance to rolling :

M2 (64-66 RC), D2 (62 RC), ATS-34 (62 RC), O1 (62 RC), A2 (60 RC) , CPM-3V (58 RC)

The difference between the M2 and D2 would be large, for the D2, ATS-34, O1, the change would be difficult to notice unless looked at carefully. You should be able to notice the 2 RC fall off on A2 and CPM-3V. The complication is of course the hardness. CPM-3V can be raised to 62 RC for example, and thus would be right behind D2, however it would lose a *lot* of toughness for a small increase in strength. In general, in the cutlery industry, most of the above would be at the same RC ~59. If this was the case you would see little difference in resistance to rolling. For chipping the list would run pretty much the opposite :

CPM-3V (58 RC), A2 (60 RC) , O1 (62 RC), ATS-34 (62 RC), D2 (62 RC), M2 (64-66 RC)

Of course you could for example, drop the hardness down on M2 to ~58 and its toughness would put it around A2, but again this doesn't make any sense considering the makeup of M2, as you are wasting its potential.

Also,which steel would hold an edge longest in chopping wood or bone

If all the edges are ground at an indentical angle, which is enough so that none of the steels will fracture then the edge holding on wood would be mainly due to strength and thus you would have :

M2 (64-66 RC), D2 (62 RC), ATS-34 (62 RC), O1 (62 RC), A2 (60 RC) , CPM-3V (58 RC)

Bone would be similar as wear resistance tends to run the same way. However you would need a really thick edge on the M2 blade to prevent fracture, and thus the other steels would have vastly thicker edges than needed. If you ground all edges at the level necessary to prevent fracture, the list would pretty much reverse. The cutting ability would obviously be changed as well which would in fact act to enhance the difference in edge retention.

... which would hold the best edge in rope or meat cutting?

This is just strength with just a hint of abrasion resistance :

M2 (64-66 RC), D2 (62 RC), ATS-34 (62 RC), O1 (62 RC), A2 (60 RC) , CPM-3V (58 RC)

With similar levels of differences seen as noted in the above. However there are materials are very abrasive to cut and thus hardness will not always be the primary factor in edge holding. It is possible for example that the higher wear resistance of CPM-3V would over come the hardness disadvantage as compared to A2 and thus it would have a longer edge life on some materials.

Taz :

... HT books are for generic pieces of steel, NOT knife blades.

Knives are used in industry as well. Heat treating is optomized for various shapes, and in fact this is always suggested, as some complicated shapes require careful consideration, but this doesn't break the basic laws which hold for steel in general, regardless of the shape. Again there is a lot of hype in the cutlery industry concerning heat treating, especially about "secret" methods.

A2 is a very tough steel. Very durable, very fine edge, and can take some punishment. That means it is tough.

You can't use a relative term as an absolute it is undefined. I could just as easily say A2 is very brittle, and it would be true if I used S7 as a benchmark for toughness.

All the charpy and v notch tests are all well and good

To be frank, the reason that materials properties are so put down by some makers is that it prevents hype. They are real physical properties. If you take two steels and bend them in a vice, you will notice a much greater resistance from the one with the greater tensile strength, you will notice that one snaps much easier if it has a much lower ductility, and so on. If you are grinding blades then you will notice that the one with a much lower machinability takes much longer to work. That is what these properties measure.

With the 2 knives. if one is damaged, and 1 cuts thru, it would mean that the one that cut thru was obviously tougher

Obviously, however the argument was when both blades were undamaged, yet one cut better, can you claim it is tougher - no, of course not. This logic, as noted in the above leads to insensible conclusions.

-Cliff
 
Cliff, you have simply worn me out. You're wrong on many of the above points, but I really don't care to piss up this rope any further... :)
 
Will York found a similar problem with your (Hossom) bolo, he also damaged the tip, which again could be prevented with more steel in the tip.

Just wanted to clarify. I didn't consider breaking the tip off of Jerry's bolo to be an indication of a "problem" in the construction or integrity of this knife. In fact, in my review, I stated that I was surprised by the strength of the tip and that it withstood heavy digging in hard wood without any signs of damage. The Hossom bolo actually out-performed a Busse Steel Heart on the task in question, as its thinner tip allowed greater penetration and, hence leverage, on the wood--especially in breaking bark off of a log, as one would do in gathering kindling.

The very fact that the tip of the bolo was thinner and better at penetrating allowed me to misjudge the depth to which I'd stuck it through the bark and into the hard wood below. Just as we've all stated ad infinitum in these kinds of debates, any knife blade will break given enough force. By locking the tip in the hard wood and prying sideways, I gained enough leverage on the blade to snap the tip off--an accident on my part, and not something I would have expected the knife to survive in any event.

In fact, the only surprise to me was that Jerry suggested the test blade, in his mind, had been ground a little too thin in the forward part, and he felt he could improve the grind in that area to withstand this kind of stress--stress that I would definitely classify as abuse. In my judgement the knife showed great strength and versatility, especially for its light weight. Again, I'd also reiterate the context in which Jerry sent it to me, which was strictly as a test case to determine how the design might be improved, before he would even consider selling it to me.

I don't think Cliff meant to imply anything about the integrity of Jerry's construction per se, and was simply using the event to illustrate that more steel translates into more strength when talking about blade thickness. Just wanted to make sure that no unintended slam against Jerry's construction was misconstrued by anyone else who might be reading this thread. That bolo is one awesome blade in my mind!

So, caveat delivered, and thank you all for your attention. We now return you to the debate...:)
 
I feel I should point out that there is a relationship between all the on-paper testing and "real world" results. The trick is knowing how to apply one to the other.
Cliff,
I think there is something to be said for simple magnitude of the feat performed. Cutting through a beef bone w/o damage is impressive, whether one knife can do it, or several. If your goal is to design and make a knife that will cut flesh and bone, and it passes Jerry's tests, then you have accomplished your goal.
 
Originally posted by Jerry Hossom
Cliff, you have simply worn me out. You're wrong on many of the above points, but I really don't care to piss up this rope any further... :)

The devil is in the details, and the details are often buried in the bullsh**. Seems that's just life.
 
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