Comparing your traditional knife edc traits

9843302056_350b2c1ed8_c.jpg


These seem to have become my final cut go-to pocket knives for edc. My requirements have become 3 ounces or less, 3 1/2 inches or less closed (3 1/4 is better) and slim enough to not take up much room in the pocket. The Vic SAK is the bantam model, which I like for the one back spring design and very light weight. It and the Sardinian resolza can be forgotten once in the pocket.

Carl.
 
knarfeng said:
So I have cutting chores that are best performed by a straight blade and none which really require a curved blade.
Click to expand...


Also, not to mention how much quicker it is to sharpen a straight edge, instead of a curved one. I like to have my single blade sheepsfoot Charlow as a secondary knife, if only for that fact alone.
 
For me it has to be the SAK Super Tinker or the GEC Electrician's knife. Those two fit the bill for my cutting and handyman chores.
 
rockgolfer said:
Caulking tubes, card board to mix glue on. Corrugated plastic for templates. Sharpen my pencil. Cut a plastic band around a pallet, shrink wrap around a pallet. Cut away old caulking. Use the point to cut tape on stone to leave behind a line to grind to. These are just some of the things I use a sheepsfoot, coping or wharncliffe blade for on a daily bases.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you use a knife for many of the same tasks I do.

I'm a remodeler and use a cutting tool for a zillion things. If I don't have on my carpenter's belt (with my utility knife), or don't have my utility knife on me, I use my larger Case pen (fits my hand very well) for cutting most things. I have to be careful about the surfaces I put it against, though, because even though I view a knife as a work tool it will suffer highly-accelerated wear if it comes in contact with very hard surfaces. Even removing caulk from ceramic tile or bathtub surfaces will do a number on a knife blade. This is where I opt for my utility knife.

I also carry a SAK Cadet in my other front pocket for its odds-and-ends value. I get a lot of use use from the bottle opener / large screwdriver blade, which, aside from its obvious value for opening craft beers, it is just a great blade for opening paint and stain cans. I don't use the main blade much anymore because the steel doesn't hold an edge as well as my Case (CV) knife, and I don't want to wear the main blade out before everything else.

I do admit to being intrigued with the GEC easy open (#15) sheepsfoot/pen knife, though I suspect it might end up being a tad small for my preferences. This just seems like a very useful and versatile pattern.
 
Last edited:
LCS, I have done remodel and new construction. My trade is stone fabrication but I stray every now and then ;). What is the length on that case pen? Model number? Im just curious.



I just realized the biggest reason these straight edges work better and safer then a curved blade. Using a secndary blade like a pen to open a package sometimes you have to stab the blade straight in and then push or pull the cut to finish the job. With a coping secondary you can kind of slash in one motion to get the job done. With the tip being well below the centerline you can stab into a cut with the blade at a safe angle so it wont close. Belly blades can not do this and are not as safe. When im working everything is just going through the motions. I dont think about it and with the coping blade as my main user I dont have t worry about it closing on me at all.

I know a pen blade could do most of my tasks but not all and certainly not as safe and fast.
 
rockgolfer said:
LCS, I have done remodel and new construction. My trade is stone fabrication but I stray every now and then ;). What is the length on that case pen? Model number? Im just curious.



I just realized the biggest reason these straight edges work better and safer then a curved blade. Using a secndary blade like a pen to open a package sometimes you have to stab the blade straight in and then push or pull the cut to finish the job. With a coping secondary you can kind of slash in one motion to get the job done. With the tip being well below the centerline you can stab into a cut with the blade at a safe angle so it wont close. Belly blades can not do this and are not as safe. When im working everything is just going through the motions. I dont think about it and with the coping blade as my main user I dont have t worry about it closing on me at all.

I know a pen blade could do most of my tasks but not all and certainly not as safe and fast.
Click to expand...


rockgolfer, my Case knife is a 06247PEN, and it's 3 7/8" overall. It's clip blade is 2 13/16" and the pen blade is 1 7/8".

Some might think/find this to be too large for EDC, but being a single spring and having rounded bolsters makes it surprisingly low profile. For whatever reason, this knife has a fairly strong pull on both blades and makes the pen very stable to work with. I'm still intrigued by the sheepsfoot/coping style blade. As you described, there are certain cutting motions that it really excels at and is perfect for, and it is really easy to sharpen.
 
jon_slider said:
Im new here, and so far, I find it is almost impossible to get people to say what they cut, beyond envelopes and food.
I suspect a lot is taken for granted by people who carry knives, my guess is they work with different materials, and their hands. Computer geeks like me, have to buy unsliced cheese and salami to justify a sheepfoot blade :-). But Ive never had a stockman, and I dont cut rope. And I really dont like the way sheepfoot blades stick way out of the frame when closed.

What do you cut?
Click to expand...

I don't mean to sound facetious, but I cut whatever needs to be cut. That's the great thing about knives -- they work on cheese and salami as well as they do on rope. ;)

I'd be hard pressed to list all the things I cut with my knife, and I don't really see the need to, but here are a few things I used it for yesterday.

1) Open a package of toys for my daughter.
2) Shorten a drinking straw.
3) Clean up a pair of chopsticks that didn't break cleanly.
4) Cut a balloon's string so my daughter could have said balloon.

Not the most strenuous of uses, but legitimate nonetheless. What other instrument is capable of performing these tasks?

- Christian
 
LCS said:
rockgolfer, my Case knife is a 06247PEN, and it's 3 7/8" overall. It's clip blade is 2 13/16" and the pen blade is 1 7/8".

Some might think/find this to be too large for EDC, but being a single spring and having rounded bolsters makes it surprisingly low profile. For whatever reason, this knife has a fairly strong pull on both blades and makes the pen very stable to work with. I'm still intrigued by the sheepsfoot/coping style blade. As you described, there are certain cutting motions that it really excels at and is perfect for, and it is really easy to sharpen.
Click to expand...

Nice Case knife. Little smaller than the T.K. Cuban pen knife I just picked up from GEC as it measures 4 1/8 closed.



I am going to modify the pen much like a fellow member here has done already


http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1136728-GEC-TK-Cuban-Pen-Knife


I would suggest looking at some of the single spring options from GEC and give one a try. The hayn helper, 61 or 62 half congress, 79 single spring. Heck if you want to pay shipping ill loan you my hayn helper for a week or two, give you a chance to try it out :)
 
Never seen a pair of scissors that could whittle worth a d__n. YMMV of course.

Besides, I find a pocketknife much easier to carry.

- Christian
 
My criteria developed over a few years of EDC:
  • carbon steel for easy sharpening and patina
  • single blade (don't like to grip extra blades)
  • substantial handle for comfort
  • flat grind for cutting efficiency
  • easy opening/closing
  • under 2 oz.
  • comfortable pocket carry
  • simple construction (most traditionals are such)
Some of these criteria necessitate compromise, but the Svord mini peasant meets all of them well. I really enjoy carrying and using it for most anything, except for jobs that gum up/dirty the blade (that's what the classic is for).
0w5i.jpg


y3hi.jpg


Edit: the exposed tang pries open bottle caps nicely. With your hand on the grip (and over the tang), I can plunge cut without worrying the blade will accidentally fold on me.
 
Last edited:
5hILAIx.jpg


Carbon single blades in the ~4" closed range. Anything smaller tends to do somersaults in my right front pocket. I like some variety in handle materials. My day to day city dwelling cutlery needs aren't too strenuous or specialized, so I've never found myself in need of more than one blade. I keep a Vic Bantam on my keychain as a back-up.

Neat thread!
 
Current EDC is a (green) Vic Classic in the RFP and an Ulster Scout in the watch pocket. A Classic of one color or another is always aboard, while the watch pocket item rotates through a variety of frequent flyers: Scout (Ulster or Imperial), Vic Pioneer, Wenger Standard Issue, Buck Canoe, Marbles Canoe, Buck 112 (tight fit!), Schrade 5OT, Buck 500 (tightish), or, more rarely, any of a number of Stockmen and others.
 
Interesting thread.
I asked myself the same questions some months ago (before I got my first custom knife), and this is what I ended up with:
- around 3,5" closed (let's say, between 3,25" and 3,625")
- preferrably stainless
- one or two blades on the same end
- one curved blade and one straight blade
- one main (full length) blade and one secondary (shorter) blade
- one pointy blade and one "not so pointy"
- mild pull or friction folder, no half stop preferred
What do I cut? Food (quite often), plastic, paper, and all sort of things that I believe serve me better if cut in two or more pieces :p
Sidenote: I always carry a SAK Classic on my keyring as well.

Fausto
:cool:
 
this should explain better than any words
note* i did for some inexplicable reason forget to include my buck 301, but it SHOULD be in this pic

 
My sweet spot on closed length seems to be 4.0-4.25". I have smaller and larger slipjoints, but tend to choose this size. My regular carry (as in every single day) is a 111 mm Vic SAK (two layer). I also carry a two-bladed #42 (GEC) in a leather sleeve in my pocket. Sometime carry a pretty traditional fixed blade that has a blade of about 2.5". 3" is okay for EDC. I choose these not so much for the blade length as the handle size as I don't care much for 3 finger knives. I do carry another smaller SAK on a key chain.

My typical uses are much like everyone elses; opening mail, cutting open packaging, cutting chalking, cutting tape, occasionally cutting plastic sheeting or carpet, but not often. Prefer scissors for the sheeting and utility knives for carpet. Food... sure in a pinch if I need to.

As I get older, I could see myself using smaller-thinner knives and going with a smaller SAK.
 
I usually gave my peanut, a gift on here. Single blade Remington made by Camillus. Next up in size is either my single blade spear Charlow or my single blade spear barehead boys jack. Then, I either carry my Tribal Spear or one of my single blade 73 trappers. These are the ones I cycle through, but I usually have the peanut, a small jack and a trapper. Toss in my Gossman EDC sized Kephart, and a one hand opener, I have gone into overkill. The peanut, jack and Kephart are the ones that see most use .
 
rockgolfer said:
---
---
---
I just realized the biggest reason these straight edges work better and safer then a curved blade. Using a secndary blade like a pen to open a package sometimes you have to stab the blade straight in and then push or pull the cut to finish the job. With a coping secondary you can kind of slash in one motion to get the job done. With the tip being well below the centerline you can stab into a cut with the blade at a safe angle so it wont close. Belly blades can not do this and are not as safe. When im working everything is just going through the motions. I dont think about it and with the coping blade as my main user I dont have t worry about it closing on me at all.

I know a pen blade could do most of my tasks but not all and certainly not as safe and fast.
Click to expand...

My thoughts on the matter exactly. A lot of times a cut needs to be started in the center of a flat surface. A sheepsfoot or Wharncliffe can be pushed into the center of a flat surface with as much pressure as necessary to pierce the surface with no fear of the blade folding because of the angle of the blade tip. Not so with a pen, clip, or spear.
 
Frank,

I quess I will need to become a folding knife Surgeon so I can get you and me the perfect Buck pocketknife. I need to get me several to tear apart and take out the spey blade. And see about putting them back together as two blades.... You will take a custom burl scale won't you I have a couple of those under my belt, maybe I can learn to do jig bone.....I don't carry this one because I am scared to lose it and it cost more than I planned....I did learn from the lesson to get one of the versions with all the pins showing.......I do carry the 303, just not the 301...........300



I carry the elk 309 on the left sometimes, usually when my pants have a watch pocket.


I carry this in a belt hanging pouch frequently, especially if the possibility of me having to 'fix' something with no tools.


This my fishing knife I re-handled, I carry in a belt pouch.


Throw me to the wolves for carry a almost tech knife. But, I stick one of these in my back pocket next to my wallet once in a while.
 
Last edited:
Those are sweet. I keep hoping Buck will pursue your idea.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top