Conflicting Forge Threads Combined

stacy, if you talk to him tell him to get in touch with him ask him you get in touch with me i couldnt figure out the PM i sent him a email but idk if it went through right.also didnt see any email on his site....mine is dbreeze225@yahoo.com.......ask him to send me a message if ya get a chance
 
ok so i think i am going to take every ones advice about the previous forge from ebay but i found some one selling this used one its got 2 burners well you can see the pics....i am leaning towards the atlas (unless it is going to take a while as the site says not in stock for a few days well i hope just a few days) but what you guys thinks about this
 
sorry forgot the pic lol

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debreeze,
Calm down a bit. Let one thread resolve before going off in another direction. That is another poor forge for knives. Read the stickys on forges and you will learn why.

Basically, most better quality knife forges have round or oval chambers with the burners at a tangent, not straight down.

Shop talk isn't really a "should I buy this" www.link. type place. We are glad to help with a forge build, give advice and answer questions about forges, etc. but we aren't a buying/selling site. I let the Atlas thread run because you were trying to contact a member. That is done and the thread closed.

I will leave this one open, but remember that we aren't here to discuss what some non-member is selling on eBay.
 
dbreeze- I'll chime in and say that I am in the process of building me a forge (among many other projects) If you are jouncing to beat some propane heated steel, then the ATLAS forge looks to be the best turn key thing out there to get you to forging temps. Now, if, like me, you enjoy the build part of things, then check out this burner from Instructables:
http://www.instructables.com/id/how-to-build-a-gas-forge-burner/?ALLSTEPS

I built one with stuff from Lowes and a drill bit from fastenal, but I'm sure just about any industrial place would have numbered drills and I've even seen folks using a MIG tip as the jet. I didn't have a way to make the bell mouth, so I heated it up with a MAPP torch and then used a splitting wedge to open up the mouth. A little unorthodox, but it works. Fed it with an adjustable propane regulator from Bass Pro, but I probably could have waited and scrounged one on garbage day by driving around a bit.

For a tank I have an older propane tank that is out of hydro so I'll use that. Firebrick, insulating fire brick, firewood and refractory cements are what I'm currently chasing down. Bottom line, if you want fast, ATLAS looks like a great way to go and probably not all that more expensive once you start piecing things together, buying cutting tools, etc. However, I enjoy the "thrill of the build."
 
sorry basicy came up with 3 options wich is why i did seperate threads. all 3 had different designs. only one had asked about something on ebay and it was basicly asking about the design as i havent seen one with 2 same size openings like that one was. i am assuming that is why you said it wasnt good for knives because it seem to have good insulation and burner (at tangent). the other 2 forge designs were both from members of this forum. i have read 90% of stickies and also info from else where and alot of info contradicts each other. if there was one be all end all documents i would follow that. but when... for example one document says that square shape forges are not good for knife making and (as you have said) round forges with a burner at the tangent of the circle are better. then i ask about one that was round and good burner placement and was told that its not good (so see where this gets cunfusing) so i do some more reading and find something that completly contradicts what i read in the begining and says square is ok if there is either small enough volume or extra burners. so ya see where one thing says opisat from another or advice. That is why i posted different threads i figured i might get some better + - facts rather than putting it all in one and getting even more conflicted info. i still dont know why the circular one with 2 open sides was said to be a bad or to simple for knife making when the whole design follows every piece of advice i have gotten except the wide open front and back wich can be remidied with fire bricks. i am sorry i guess i should have put it all in one thread
 
Good advice.

I will say that I see or receive probably 100 forge questions a year. Most of the time they all want one tomorrow, and usually plan on making something very low quality.

If someone wants to make and HT good quality knives, it behooves them to use a good forge. A simple very good forge can be made easily for about $100. A superior PID controlled forge can be made for about $200. These will last many years with no issues, and can be sold in a flash if well built. The only draw back is you will have to make it yourself and take maybe a month of weekend work to do it. It will require some simple welding, which can be done by most anyone with a stick or wire welder.
Every part can be bought from HTT, and a lot of what you need can be fund by some scrounging. If you don't want to build a burner, Atlas sells them complete with regulator for a very low price. If you don't want to go with PID control now, it can be added later ( but it would be good to put in the TC sheath).


I suggest anyone wanting a forge wait until they understand how they work and what makes a good one before ordering or making one. Reading the stickys about forges, PID control, and doing searches on forge builds and design. This will equip you with the knowledge to make either a good decision on what to buy, or what to build.

NOW, I am going to tell you what I tell 90% of the new makers who ask about forges - "You Don't Need a Forge!"
Forging is fun, and with time and skill it may save a buck or two, but virtually all (99.9%) knives end up being stock removal. A good set of hand tools, five or six good files, a big stack of sandpaper, some workable knife steel (1084 or similar) and a 2" wide belt grinder ( usually a 2X72), are what you need.
HT is best learned later on , as is forging. If you can't make a good knife in the finishing steps, what you make by forging won't matter. Since forging is a skill by itself, adding that to learning how to make knives is just going to make things worse.
 
dbreeze,
You have six forge threads all running at one time. Later on tonight I will combine them. Take a break, read some, and then get your thoughts together.
 
FORGE CONSTRUCTION:
Extra thick 1/4” wall steel forge body with carry handle. Four pre drilled legs for bench top use and optional permanent mounting. 1” ceramic fiber insulation with ceramic fire brick floor. Our tried and tested 150,000+ BTU burner with choke, precision machined brass gas orifice, and stainless steel tip. Chamber size is 5”wide x 5”tall x 10” long.

No covering on the wool ceramic, you will still need to give it a coating.


You don't need a forge.

File the knife out, outsource HT.
 
To elaborate on what Stacy said about your threads, many of us get notifications when a new thread is posted, this is so we can help each other quickly and timely. When you flood the forum with 6 threads based on the same topic your pushing threads back that may not have been fully answered. So next time be courteous to others and keep all your questions regarding one topic in one thread. But we are happy to have another member.
I do think you should consider the counts recommendations of hand tools and out sourcing. We have all done it and started that way. It's not too difficult and its relatively fun.
 
In think we are all calm enough. But dbreeze might need to catch his breath, sit down, and think things out a bit.
 
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