Considering a 120BKS or 124 Frontiersman

Wolverine666

Wolverine666

Joined
Dec 7, 2009
Messages
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I'm considering buying a new 120BKS or 124 Frontiersman in the near future. I like the classic look and the stainless blades (I'm not interested in rust-prone tool steels or carbon steels).

I have questions :

1) What is a "Phenolic" handle ?
2) Do these knives have full tang construction ?
3) How does 420 HC perform overall ?

I haven't handled a Buck in a long while. So thanks for the help.
 
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Phenolic is an resin type material without the woven fibers of micarta.
Both those knives have a rat-tail tang which goes all the way thru the handle. It is not called a full tang. That is different.
420HC is a good performer, a very good stainless and sharpens easy on man made stones. You don't need a diamond stone. Welcome, DM
 
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1. Composite material, not natural.
2. No, hidden tang
3. Buck uses 420 High Carbon in many knives. Easy to sharpen, good corrosion resistance and durability.
4. Lifetime guarantee. Those knives have been around forever. Can't go wrong.
 
"Phenolic" is a type of synthetic polymer. When used in knife scales it tough as hell, should last forever in normal use.
They have full "hidden" tangs that do run the length of the handle under the polymer.
My 120 is made with 425M steel (1982), my 119 is 420 HC. I guess I'm just now sensitive enough to tell a lot of difference. Both hold a decent edge for quite awhile. Perhaps, I'm not sure the 440C takes a little more work to sharpen but thats OK.
 
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Awesome. Thanks guys. I've been here on the forums for years but I've always been into folders (still am). However , lately I've had the urge for a good-size , sturdy fixed blade with stainless blade.

Your info has helped me great. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on the 120BKS. I like the bigger size.
 
I've seen some of these type handles merely glued into a hollow handle. But not Buck. They set it all the way thru the handle, glue it and pin it. The pin being through the pommel. I have both the models you inquired about. I've used the 120 more and malleted it some. Nothing like some post about. Still it has strength. DM
 
David Martin said:
DDD, are you sure your model 120 was mfg. in 1982? DM
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1981 Perhaps. Someone here on BF dated the box. I bought the knife new in 1982. I get confused after 30+ years

DSC00280_zpsbb1d5998.jpg
 
Your box could be from 1981 but the knife is generally considered from 1982. The steel would be 425M. I have that same model and the grind is the telling item. A good find and nice photo. DM
 
David Martin said:
I've seen some of these type handles merely glued into a hollow handle. But not Buck. They set it all the way thru the handle, glue it and pin it. The pin being through the pommel. I have both the models you inquired about. I've used the 120 more and malleted it some. Nothing like some post about. Still it has strength. DM
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What do you mean "malleted" it some ?

So in short , does the rat tail tang of the 120 (w/ glue and pins from the factory) do a good job of keeping the blade secure with no wiggling ?
 
Wolverine, I've never seen a Buck 100 series handle get loose from normal/intended/design purpose use. Mine go back as far as the late 1960's, and on up through the 1990's - all are still as tight as a tick. I think if you use the Buck knife as intended (not as a prybar and don't drive it with a mallet) it will last several lifetimes. OH
 
Old Hunter said:
Wolverine, I've never seen a Buck 100 series handle get loose from normal/intended/design purpose use. Mine go back as far as the late 1960's, and on up through the 1990's - all are still as tight as a tick. I think if you use the Buck knife as intended (not as a prybar and don't drive it with a mallet) it will last several lifetimes. OH
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That's the answer I was looking for. Thank you.

And aside from it's handsome appearance , and it being made in the USA , another great thing about the 120 is it's price. It seems to be an incredible value. Lots of knife for the money.
 
I wish I hadn't written that as I thought you were familiar with the terms. Instead it created confusion.
Yes, the handles are secure and no wiggle. DM
 
Great bang for the Buck:D. I saw one washing around in the hold of a saltwater fishing boat (no, the crew didn't take much care of their gear), must have been there for weeks. Rinsed it off and it looked darn near new. I used a 119 a couple of times to field dress moose; edge needed a touch-up by the time we were done, mainly dulled from cutting through that gritty hide, but that's all.
 
David Martin said:
I wish I hadn't written that as I thought you were familiar with the terms. Instead it created confusion.
Yes, the handles are secure and no wiggle. DM
Click to expand...

I'm pretty new to fixed blades so some of the terminology escapes me. I've been a folder guy for a long while. Some things between the two are similar but many things are different. So I'm learning.
 
Hay Wolver,

FYI

The new issue 124's are full tang not hidden/rat tang. See the photo below, the handle on the right is the current 124 handle.

JB
 
I owned a 124 not too long ago (few months back), and I was rather turned off by the square handle. It was like holding a 1x1, flat and square. I ended up needing to raise some funds for other gear, so I sold it. With that said, I believe it is a very good blade. In fact, I wouldn't mind buying another and attempting to mod the handle to my liking.


I just recently received a 120 though, and I absolutely love the thing. It is just outstanding. Wonderfully comfortable handle, perfect balance and cuts like a monster.

To be honest, I think you'll be happy with either the 120 or 124.

 
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