considering stripping tglb

Aias

Aias

Joined
Aug 1, 2012
Messages
5,188
Hello all,

The coating on my tglb is showing some wear, which has a cool factor all its own--but, I'm eyeing it and considering a make-over. I've read some threads about this already, and I've stripped a couple of Beckers, so I get the basics and have the materials... however, I've also read that there is another coating/ surface between the coat and the infi (I think), so I want to handle this the right way...

Any suggestions/ advice? Thanks in advance.

Here's a pick of my tglb that I've posted elsewhere--just for kicks.

2d14qb4.jpg
 
I've told you this before but I think you have one of the best looking black on black TGLBs out there. I mean the micarta is so dark and the blade finish looks really smooth.
 
Thanks Morgan, the blade coating is actually the tanker grey; maybe it looks smoother/darker due to use... that is surely why the micarta is darker--sweat and grit! Nonetheless, should I choose to strip, I'd like to hear from those who have before I begin. I plan to leave the coating under the micarta and on the guard/holes--just a naked blade, should I opt to strip.
 
Yes, after you strip, there will be a dark grey layer. You can leave it like that, or abrade it off with Scotch Brite or medium grit sandparer.
 
resinguy said:
Yes, after you strip, there will be a dark grey layer. You can leave it like that, or abrade it off with Scotch Brite or medium grit sandparer.
Click to expand...

thanks resinguy--I've read about one guy who began with 150 grit, then moved on to 220... I was thinking of taking it to 400 grit? Anyone do this? Is leaving the dark grey layer preferable or not? From what I read, it seems to develop rust, and raw infi is more resistant.
 
Thanks Garth--always great to see your pics too! I'll figure out how to proceed and post pics...
 
When a Busse comes along, you must Strip it....Strip it, Strip it good...Devo

Jasco strip away epoxy coat...scotch brite or steel wool the gray decarb like Highrisk advised...it is like the primer coat between the slick INFI & the epoxy coat and it does promote orange rust almost instantly...

I'd continue to steel wool until you achieve finish you desire...wet/dry sand your way through grits up to 1000, 1200, or even 1500 is good too ( labor intensive, but therapy to me )...I've done it both ways...

Just don't bust out the Dremel or bench grinder on your INFI...you may mar the finish and have to work harder to regain the glory...keep it hand to hand combat ...

You will be rewarded with a bad-a$$ tool which will be more dear to you IMHO....more labor = more special

Don't worry about "messing up" your INFI with chem. strippers & hand sanding, it can take it...but for safety's sake watch the edge & tip ( don't impale yourself when sanding )...that Jasco stripper can be a bit nasty too, burns like a sumb*t*ch and would probably blind you if you don't wear eye protection...

Lastly, throw up some pics when you finish and let everyone share the love :thumbup: :)
 
Thanks so much--the pics will be posted upon completion... and maybe step by step, if possible. I will definitely keep my Dremel far from my infi... hand to hand it is (which suits me just fine)! I have Klean Strip (premium) which is some nasty stuff as well--I have to wear googles and gloves, even a mask if handy. I get the therapy/ labor intensive thing too... agreed. :thumbup:
 
I used a wire wheel on a Dremel to remove the gray layer after stripping the paint off. The wire wheel gets into all the little dimples and machine marks. Then I used a scotch brite disk on an air powered 1/4" angle grinder then I covered the disk with a cotton rag and used stropping compound to buff it some. Worked great. And if you use a brass wire wheel it gives the blade a nice brass finish, but It wears off after a while. I also etched the logo before stripping the finish.
0505141621b_zpsp4g7xm5c.jpg
 
Aias said:
thanks ausher, that's a good looking tglb :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Copy that! :)

Throw up a pic of the "BUSSE" etched side...

And please elaborate on how you etched it...I assume you used the etching solution for circuit boards?
 
I can not be impartial. It was your knife and that pic that made me order my TGLB. To me it is awesome the way it is. I would beat on it some more before stripping, but that's just my opinion. Also it makes the whole knife match your Wetterling axe head.

Either way it is an awesome knife.
 
PeteyTwoPointOne said:
Copy that! :)

Throw up a pic of the "BUSSE" etched side...

And please elaborate on how you etched it...I assume you used the etching solution for circuit boards?
Click to expand...

Agreed--more info on the etching please; and a pic if possible. Thanks.
 
Spameater12003 said:
I can not be impartial. It was your knife and that pic that made me order my TGLB. To me it is awesome the way it is. I would beat on it some more before stripping, but that's just my opinion. Also it makes the whole knife match your Wetterling axe head.

Either way it is an awesome knife.
Click to expand...

Hey Spameater, thanks--glad to be a little inspiration. I'm not rushing into this little task--I know it will be a lot of "hand to hand" (though I'm looking into the wire brush option); I want to have the time to do it properly, and not start it without the time to finish it. With three little ones and the semester starting (I'm a professor), time is a little tight. I've gathered more materials and nearly have everything I need, should I begin... but, I think I'll likely have more opportunity to chop, carve, hack, and cut, and slice before I have time to strip, sand, and polish...

Either way more pics will be taken ;)

I am, however, still wanting more info about, and if possible pics of, the stripping/polishing process... so, if you are so inclined, keep'm coming... I'm also guessing I may be the only Prof in LA with a Busse!
 
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